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Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Roy, Jun 23, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I thought the same thing.

    One possible reason comes to mind, however. It is a whole cut and if the last were very distorted due to bespoke build-ups the maker might be worried about centering the medallions. This approach would solve that problem.

    If he's placed a piece of leather under the vamp in place of a toe stiffener he can punch into it, pull it and replace with a backing and a proper toe stiffener. No harm, no foul.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  3. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    absolutely right.
    it is a wholecut
    and the toe is not closed yet
    because he still had to add the leather toepiece

    and he had to wait for the client
    who was on holiday
    to give advice for the medallion
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011
  4. meister

    meister Senior member

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    What is that "tripe" like material used inside the shoe?
     
  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Are you looking at the underside of the crocodile?
     
  6. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Thanks for another series of great photos, Roy.

    What was surprising to me was that each hole the medallion was hand punched and widened. I thought there was one large punch for a medallion. Or maybe that's just for mass-produced rtw shoes.
     
  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ready-to-wear uses punches where all the (short) bits, are assembled on a base plate (looks rather like a printing block).
    Once placed correctly, it only needs one single punch from a heavy hydraulic press.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011
  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Many bespoke makers punch all the broguing one hole at a time, as well. Sometimes this can be critical in getting large holes, for example, in corners correctly and consistently. [Some makers will choose to put small holes --the doublet--in the corner. Although this can necessitate rotating the doublet at an angle to the line-of-broguing, it can look very refined.]
     
  9. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    ^Interesting, guys. Thanks.
     
  10. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

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    Is that real croc? Looks embossed. Great reverse though and those kudu-sharkskins are stunning
     
  11. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    No that's real croc. It's probably from the throat of the croc. That's a little finer than the belly and definitely nicer than the back.
     
  12. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    never realized sharkskin was so popular, i thort i was the only guy to like it
     
  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    what made you think that?
     
  14. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    Here is an awesome pair of Sharkskin chukka's from T4:

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    Last edited: Jul 26, 2011
  15. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    dunno i guess it is just one of those things - exotic are rather an aquired taste
     
  16. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Roy

    yes i love those too great use for these sorts of skins
     
  17. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Roy, very interesting choices on these pairs! What trous will you be wearing with the stingray pair?
     
  18. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    When a leather is embossed, it is 'printed" or pressed on the grain side to look like another leather. This is done on a cheaper grade of leather that ordinarily has no texture or character of itself. A cowhide or a more common grade of calf might be used, for example. Calf has no texture to speak of, either on the grain surface or the flesh side. It is relatively smooth. The point being that if the leather were embossed we would see the flesh side of a calf or cow leather...smooth, in other words...in the photo where the toe of the vamp is turned back. But in the photo we clearly see the tile pattern from the grainside of the croc, mirrored/duplicated on the flesh side. That's a near certain indicator that the leather is genuine crocodile. Also when a leather is embossed and then "drafted" (pulled) over the toe, for instance, the embossed texture will almost always flatten out and/or even disappear. This doesn't happen on reptile leathers, or elephant, ostrich, etc., and is generally minimal on leathers such as shark.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2011
  19. TheBurnOut

    TheBurnOut Senior member

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    Those sharkskin chukkas are bangin'!
     
  20. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    i don't like chukkas...

    i can sea a pair of chelsea or jodphur boots with leather soles, though.
     

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