Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Roy, Jun 23, 2011.
I thought you wanted bespoke instead of RTW
I think we all do. Question though: How does his bespoke process differ from that in the video?
In what way? In the video you just saw him work on several shoes, on each a different step.
I don't know. You seemed to be implying that it was showing him working on RTW shoes, which I would not expect to all be done by hand by Mr. Bestetti himself. I could be completely wrong though.
Actually, his RTW was/is all made by hand by him and his two employees. But finished to a different standard than the bespoke.
But my comment was regarding the website madabouttown.com which of course only sold his RTW.
That's very cool. I can understand why the RTW would be finished to a different standard, but that it's so in house deserves respect.
He looks like he is working in an unheated factory with only worn old work clothes and hard activity to keep warm. Nevertheless the joy and passion with which he approaches his handiwork is obvious to all and the byproduct is wonderfully finished.
the gators rock
Roy is the almond/"Bestetti toe" a standard last /shape that Riccardo then alters to fit the bespoke fitting?
I ask because I see he used fibreglass/builders' bog to make alterations to the wooden last which he could later sand down to fit the individual foot.
I believe that is a standard plastic last with leather build-ups. No fiberglass that I can see.
DFW is right. it's a plastic last with leather alterations.
Riccardo uses blank plastic lasts to create lasts for customers. But not with pre formed noses/shapes. That is what he does himself. I have two lasts with Riccardo. One with the almond nose and the other is a more 'agressive' chisel shape. My loafers were done at that last.
My brother has a different toe shape altogether:
The cordwainer I am visiting does wood with leather additions.
Riccardo used wood in the past, but he prefers the plastic. I guess it comes down to personal preference.
The only reason I mentioned it was the reference to fiberglass. I suppose one could use fiberglass for build-ups on lasts but all kinds of problems would ensue. The resins are noxious if not toxic; the fiberglass would require an inordinate amount of time to cure; and the dust and shavings from reducing the fitting to blend with the lines of the last and meet girth requirements would be a further threat to health and public safety.
Scraps of insole and outsole leather make the best build-ups especially if properly sealed after they are reduced. It's fast, it's economical and it's safe...mostly.
Great stuff still. would be nice if the euro fell more =)
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