REVIEW of EIDOS NAPOLI SUIT from NO MAN WALKS ALONE

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by CDRMC, Dec 2, 2015.

  1. CDRMC

    CDRMC New Member

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    This is my first Eidos purchase, and my first NMWA purchase. I was unsure of buying this (due to the cost, and my unfamiliarity, and it was non-returnable). I have not seen many detailed reviews of similar NMWA Eidos suits, so I thought this might be helpful for someone else who might be on the fence.

    For reference, I prefer an Italian cut suit with a slim profile and soft shoulders. My favorite suits so far that I own are Caruso and Ma.Co.. I was looking for something with slightly wider lapels and higher rise trousers, and this seemed to fit the bill.

    This is described as a "Mixed navy suit with subtle nailhead weave, 12 oz wool", on sale recently for 981. It shipped within 4 business days for free, in a large box, with a substantial wooden hanger, a cloth garment bag, and a small box of chocolates. I did not receive an email regarding shipping notice or tracking information, so that was slightly disconcerting, but it worked out fine for me because the shipping was very quick.



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    FABRIC and CONSTRUCTION: The cloth is medium weight, soft (not extremely soft), and seems fairly warm. The color and pattern are true to the pictures on the website, and exactly what I expected. It is slightly brighter than true navy, but nothing close to a bright blue.

    It is 100% wool from VBC and fully lined. The shoulders have no padding that I can feel. The trousers are flat front, with an extended waist tab.


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    FIT (This is BEFORE any alterations):

    This is a size 36R (46IT). I am 67.5" tall and weigh 130 lbs. I re-measured the suit trying to use the same technique as described on the website, but my result was a half inch shorter in the shoulder and jacket length.

    I am satisfied with the fit in the shoulders, jacket length, and waist. (The length might be borderline long). There is enough room in the chest to feel comfortable, and I don't see any collar gap or bowing lapels. The button stance is slightly lower than my other suits, but I think it looks more classic. I will need to shorten the sleeves and finish the trousers, but I was not planning on any further alterations. The trouser waist is slightly snug but not enough to require letting out.

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    The back (without alteration) looks cleaner than any of my other suits:

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    Shirt is Ledbury, and tie is Drake's.

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    Overall, I like this suit very much, especially the lapels, soft shoulder, jacket length, and trouser rise. I was expecting more rounded shoulder appearance and a fuller lapel roll, but maybe this was from being packed and folded. The color is perfect and very versatile for daily wear. The fabric is nice, but I would not say it was exceptional. The weight is heavy enough for cool weather, but probably not appropriate for summer heat.

    In terms of quality, I think this is a very good value, and I would recommend it.
     


  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Thorough review. Thanks for sharing.
     


  3. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    IMHO, those are hardly " soft shoulders".
    They are quite square compared to other
    Neapolitan offerings.
     


  4. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I never get a tracking number via email either, but you can log into your account, and the tracking information is invariably there.
     


  6. CDRMC

    CDRMC New Member

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    To answer a question, further thoughts on my suit regarding the fit and comparisons to other brands:

    It has been a challenge to find a suit that fits me decently. I have owned Brooks Brothers and JCrew in the past, but they did not fit great, except the BB Fitzgerald was decent in a 36S, especially the model made in Italy.

    I currently own this Eidos Napoli, a Caruso, and a MaCo suit. Pictured in order, wearing the same shirt:

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    They are all 36R. The Eidos is pictured unaltered, and the others have only been shortened in the sleeves and trousers hemmed.

    The Caruso and Eidos jackets fit almost exactly the same, but the Caruso has rounder shoulders and a higher button stance. The jacket length appears slightly longer with the Eidos, but they both measure 29 inches. I like the length of both of these. They both might benefit from adding a little waist suppression.

    The MaCo also fits well in the chest and shoulders, but the jacket length is one inch shorter. I now prefer a longer length, and I think this looks too short on me now.

    It is difficult to see, but the lapels are wider on the Eidos, and the trousers have a higher rise compared to the Caruso and MaCo.

    Overall, the quality on all three suits is very good, and I can't tell much of any difference, except the fabrics have different weight and textures.

    Regarding price, the Caruso and MaCo get better discounts, so I was able to get a lower price on eBay and Yoox.
     


  7. CDRMC

    CDRMC New Member

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    Here is an updated picture of my Eidos suit after alterations. I had the sleeves finished and the pants hemmed.

    I like the trouser length now, but the tailor originally wanted to make it longer. I think the jacket sleeves might still be too long. Everything else is unaltered.

    Since purchasing, I have gained a little weight and now the trousers waist/hip/seat is very snug. I learned one needs to stay very slim in the waist to fit into this type of suit.

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