JJ Katz
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- May 31, 2018
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A recently posted article on “Die Workwear” argues that “The suit died but for good reasons”. I think it is one of the clearer expositions of the currently predominant thinking about the meaning and symbolism of ‘traditional’ clothing. I happen to disagree quite strongly with it.
It’s not too long to read and you should do so yourself but its basic thesis is that the gradual decrease and eventual disappearance of suit-wearing is the inevitable consequence of ever-diminishing formality which reflects but also contributes to ‘liberal’, anti-hierarchical, pluralistic social values. Since the hegemony of those values is inherently desirable, it is potentially reactionary to bemoan the marginalisation of suit-wearing.
It would be silly, in a style-oriented forum, to address directly the unconstrainedly progressive, Whig-historical world-view and assumption that ever-greater individualism and social levelling are attainable, mutually consistent and/or desirable. I just want to point out that the original thesis would be fatally undermined without that assumption.
What I would like to address, instead, are two fallacies that I perceive in the argument even if we accept the socio-philosophical premise. First: the strong causal link suggested between material hierarchies and pluralism. Second: the conflation of qualitative discernment with material hierarchies. Furthermore, I would like to ‘stress-test’ the clothes informality = democracy/pluralism nexus.
Error 1: formal /elegant clothing ↔ elitist views / conditions (& vice versa)
There are many reasons why someone might choose to wear relatively more structured, elegant, formal clothing. Status signalling is clearly one but aesthetic pleasure, love of craft, etc. might matter just as much. Whereas there will always be some brands or high-end tailors that signal a degree of wealth (albeit one within reach of a large minority of the population), following the industrial revolution only extreme penury can prevent one from dressing well. As the Congolese Sapeurs and Soweto dandies demonstrate so well, in fact even some objectively poor folks can dress well.
Conversely, insanely wealthy and powerful people ‘pretending’ to be just like the rest of us by wearing tacky clothes or, worse, wearing obscenely expensive versions of basic clothes, is scarcely a sign of egalitarianism, it is arguably a sign of deception, condescension, insider status.
A social predilection for unstructured, slovenly in some cases even squalid or vulgar attire / grooming does not seem to correlate with social equality and freedom, especially on a transnational comparison basis. I think very few social scientists would argue that the US is the most egalitarian country today (just look at wealth distribution and social mobility compared to NW Europe) and yet it ‘excels’ at extreme informality in clothes.
Error 2: quality discernment ↔ normative judgement of others
Ask yourself this: if we were talking about furniture, or food or electronic gadgets, would anyone seriously argue that if everyone only ever sat in cheap plastic chairs, only ate processed junk food and used sub-standard electronics society would be fairer, freeer, more accepting? Why?
Is it a better world where craft and a sense of occasion or love of beautiful (≠ luxury) things are proscribed? If not, why should that reasoning be applied to clothes?
Lastly, as a thought experiment, I raise the question: if it WERE true that pluralism / inclusivity is unreservedly good and also true that foregoing traditional formalised dress helps that process along, is there a reasonable end point? Because if it’s objectively good for society to give up suits then it’s very, very, very unlikely to be the case that sport-coats, traditional leather shoes and tailored trousers survive. Then what? Chinos? Jeans? Do we achieve the ultimate ‘woke’ society when everyone wears flip-flops and a compostable/recyclable diaper?
My counter-thesis is that the suit did not die because of increasing democracy and liberalism but rather because increasing individualism and relativism (partial strands of liberalism) have resulted in the undeniable vulgarisation of manners, customs, entertainment and, yes, aesthetics.
It’s not too long to read and you should do so yourself but its basic thesis is that the gradual decrease and eventual disappearance of suit-wearing is the inevitable consequence of ever-diminishing formality which reflects but also contributes to ‘liberal’, anti-hierarchical, pluralistic social values. Since the hegemony of those values is inherently desirable, it is potentially reactionary to bemoan the marginalisation of suit-wearing.
It would be silly, in a style-oriented forum, to address directly the unconstrainedly progressive, Whig-historical world-view and assumption that ever-greater individualism and social levelling are attainable, mutually consistent and/or desirable. I just want to point out that the original thesis would be fatally undermined without that assumption.
What I would like to address, instead, are two fallacies that I perceive in the argument even if we accept the socio-philosophical premise. First: the strong causal link suggested between material hierarchies and pluralism. Second: the conflation of qualitative discernment with material hierarchies. Furthermore, I would like to ‘stress-test’ the clothes informality = democracy/pluralism nexus.
Error 1: formal /elegant clothing ↔ elitist views / conditions (& vice versa)
There are many reasons why someone might choose to wear relatively more structured, elegant, formal clothing. Status signalling is clearly one but aesthetic pleasure, love of craft, etc. might matter just as much. Whereas there will always be some brands or high-end tailors that signal a degree of wealth (albeit one within reach of a large minority of the population), following the industrial revolution only extreme penury can prevent one from dressing well. As the Congolese Sapeurs and Soweto dandies demonstrate so well, in fact even some objectively poor folks can dress well.
Conversely, insanely wealthy and powerful people ‘pretending’ to be just like the rest of us by wearing tacky clothes or, worse, wearing obscenely expensive versions of basic clothes, is scarcely a sign of egalitarianism, it is arguably a sign of deception, condescension, insider status.
A social predilection for unstructured, slovenly in some cases even squalid or vulgar attire / grooming does not seem to correlate with social equality and freedom, especially on a transnational comparison basis. I think very few social scientists would argue that the US is the most egalitarian country today (just look at wealth distribution and social mobility compared to NW Europe) and yet it ‘excels’ at extreme informality in clothes.
Error 2: quality discernment ↔ normative judgement of others
Ask yourself this: if we were talking about furniture, or food or electronic gadgets, would anyone seriously argue that if everyone only ever sat in cheap plastic chairs, only ate processed junk food and used sub-standard electronics society would be fairer, freeer, more accepting? Why?
Is it a better world where craft and a sense of occasion or love of beautiful (≠ luxury) things are proscribed? If not, why should that reasoning be applied to clothes?
Lastly, as a thought experiment, I raise the question: if it WERE true that pluralism / inclusivity is unreservedly good and also true that foregoing traditional formalised dress helps that process along, is there a reasonable end point? Because if it’s objectively good for society to give up suits then it’s very, very, very unlikely to be the case that sport-coats, traditional leather shoes and tailored trousers survive. Then what? Chinos? Jeans? Do we achieve the ultimate ‘woke’ society when everyone wears flip-flops and a compostable/recyclable diaper?
My counter-thesis is that the suit did not die because of increasing democracy and liberalism but rather because increasing individualism and relativism (partial strands of liberalism) have resulted in the undeniable vulgarisation of manners, customs, entertainment and, yes, aesthetics.