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Resoling with flushed toe taps

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SuitedDx, Feb 1, 2012.

  1. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    Curious to know if anyone has had flushed toe taps (post production) installed and eventually had to later resole with the original manufacturers. Basically, I want to have flushed toe taps installed on a couple pair of shoes; however, I am concerned that manufacturers will later decline to resole because of the flushed toe tap installment (I have heard some manufacturers declining to resole after other types of sole work). I am curious if manufacturers such as C&J, Lobb, Grenson, or EG are picky about this. Anyone have experience?
     


  2. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    C&J will resole with the option of installing flush taps
     


  3. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    yes, most manufacturers won't do a "recraft" if anyone else has done anything to their shoes, such as flush toe taps, in which screws go into the welt.
     


  4. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    That was what I was thinking. I know UK manufacturers are very particular about it. My typical practice is just to get the cheap aloft taps then when the ball part of the sole wears, just have the original manufacturers do a full re-sole (with flushed taps if the option is provided).

    I never had an issue with the heels being done by third party cobblers though. Seems pointless having to send back to the original manufacturers just for heel changes.
     


  5. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Let’s say it like that: manufacturers reserve the right not to accept repairs which have been previously repaired elsewhere. That does not mean they will refuse all previous third party repairs. If the shoe has been significantly altered, for example where a previously welted sole has been replaced with a Blake-stitched one and a trail of stitching holes will have perforated the insole, they are likely to refuse. Refurbishment of a pair of shoes makes the manufacturer a profit; it’s not a guarantee job which gets done for free.

    I don’t think a sunken toe plate would warrant rejection, after all, the welt will be replaced.
     


  6. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    As far as I know, the standard recraft on a goodyear shoe does not include replacement of the welt.

    Sure they reserve the right to reject them, and i'd imagine a good number of them would say no when it comes to sunken toe plates.
     


  7. Alan K C

    Alan K C Well-Known Member

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    Hi DpprDr,

    I was wondering if you have any update with shoemakers reject recraft or resole due to the flushed metal toe plates (FMTP) installed by local cobblers such as B. Nelson? Any structural damage or issues with shoes after FMTP? After reading through some of the recent discussions related to FMTP, many SFers (other then shoemakers) agreed FMTP is one of the better solution for fast wear toe. I understand many of SFers had them installed and I am just about to get them install to a few pairs of new shoes. Your update or anyone with FMTP would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
     


  8. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    I'm relatively certain that most manufacturers would reject for recrafting shoes that have FMTPs. I know AE is one of them.
     


  9. Alan K C

    Alan K C Well-Known Member

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    Quadcammer, thank you for your input.

    What is interesting is in the new EG catalog. P.10: "From the parade group to the battlefield, Edward Green has a proud history of making footwear for those serving the Crown. These new additions named after army training camps, are inspired by that military heritage. The Bordon and Longmoor have metal toe-plates, revered eyelets and a dazzling polish."

    issuu.com/edwardgreen/docs/edward_green_catalogue
     


  10. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I've never heard of a cobbler taking a Goodyear-welted shoe and Blake-stitching on a new sole. [​IMG] Isn't one of the reasons that many consider Blake-stitching to be inferior to Goodyear-welting due to the fact that fewer cobblers have the machines to do it? I know DWFII contends that Blake-stitching is ultimately superior due to the distaste for gemming, but most people stick with Goodyear-welting anyway due to it's "ease" of recrafting. I would be furious if I took my shoes to a cobbler and when they gave them back they were Blake-stitched through the insoles.
     


  11. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I am pretty sure that recrafting for all of the common Goodyear-welted companies does include automatic welt replacement. In fact, it is one of the very reasons that recrafting actually shortens the overall life of a Goodyear-welted shoe. If the welt were left intact, then they could be resoled far more times and the shoes would last far longer. With welt replacement, they generally say that the shoes can only be recrafted 4-5 times due to the weakening of the upper leather's integrity where the welt is stitched on by machine.
     


  12. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    Ae almost certainly would reject them, but I think AE is extremely particular about this. With EGs it does not matter since they will give you the option of having toe taps added if you buy them in their store or order MTO (here I would simply ask them to have the taps added for you and you will be fine). No idea about C&J and the others, but why don't you simply call them up?
     


  13. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    nvm
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2013


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