Requesting Fit Advice on New Oliver Wicks Suit

[pasoguava]

Hello!

Requesting thoughts on the fit of the Oliver Wicks MTM suit below. The first photo shows the suit as depicted on their website and the rest are the suit I received. For reference, I'm 5'8", 158lbs. I'm in the arts so am never in an office environment. This suit will be used for openings, social events, etc.

Here's some info and some thoughts:

1.) The button stance feels a little low. They've offered to remake the jacket free of charge with the button stance raised 1 and 1/4".

2.) The shoulders feel too broad. They've offered to bring them in 3/4" on the remake if I go that route, and the sleeves brought up half an inch. I'd also have them bring in the sleeve width a little bit.

3.) The sleeves are too long. Would bring them up half an inch. I'd also have them bring in the sleeve width a bit.

Do those adjustments seem right?

Other questions:

1.) If they do raise the button stance, they also suggested shortening the jacket a half an inch. I like the length but am concerned that if I raise the button stance without shortening the jacket, it will disrupt the symmetry of the jacket overall. Thoughts? Or do you all feel that the stance is appropriate as is?

2.) How's the waist suppression? Does it feel like it could stand a little more or is it good as is?

3.) And finally, if I have the jacket remade, should I go with 3.5" peak lapels or stick with notch?

They offer reimbursement for local tailoring so the things I need to have them nail are the shoulders, the stance, and the jacket length. Anything else I can get taken care of later.

Congrats on making it through the wall of text and many thanks in advance for any input!

 

[papado]

Hello!

Requesting thoughts on the fit of the Oliver Wicks MTM suit below. The first photo shows the suit as depicted on their website and the rest are the suit I received. For reference, I'm 5'8", 158lbs. I'm in the arts so am never in an office environment. This suit will be used for openings, social events, etc.

Here's some info and some thoughts:

1.) The button stance feels a little low. They've offered to remake the jacket free of charge with the button stance raised 1 and 1/4".

2.) The shoulders feel too broad. They've offered to bring them in 3/4" on the remake if I go that route, and the sleeves brought up half an inch. I'd also have them bring in the sleeve width a little bit.

3.) The sleeves are too long. Would bring them up half an inch. I'd also have them bring in the sleeve width a bit.

Do those adjustments seem right?

Other questions:

1.) If they do raise the button stance, they also suggested shortening the jacket a half an inch. I like the length but am concerned that if I raise the button stance without shortening the jacket, it will disrupt the symmetry of the jacket overall. Thoughts? Or do you all feel that the stance is appropriate as is?

2.) How's the waist suppression? Does it feel like it could stand a little more or is it good as is?

3.) And finally, if I have the jacket remade, should I go with 3.5" peak lapels or stick with notch?

They offer reimbursement for local tailoring so the things I need to have them nail are the shoulders, the stance, and the jacket length. Anything else I can get taken care of later.

Congrats on making it through the wall of text and many thanks in advance for any input!

I agree that you can slim the sleeves a little but and of course they should be shortened so you can see some shirt cuff (can't eyeball it exactly because I don't see how long your sleeves are but I'd guess between .5-.75" depending on the arm as your right one looks a little longer).

I also agree with moving the buttoning point up as there is a large gap between the lapel roll and the button. The jacket could probably go up a little bit as well, but I do like a longer jacket; perhaps see if they can shorten it only a quarter of inch?

The shoulders are a tricky thing to diagnose not in person. I'd argue they aren't really that wide and just that they are somewhat padded so they're noticeable. I think you could probably reduce by half an inch (a little less aggressive from their .75").

The waist looks good from here and also in the sense I'm not sure if there's really a ton of room for you to take it in. I fear if you do it will pull and look too tight--the jacket is fairly clean right now in terms of the front body.

I'd stick to the notch lapels for a classic look. I love peak lapels but i think this can be a nice navy suit that can fit well and won't look like you're trying too hard. The minor tweaks should clean up the look and you should be good to go!

 

[breakaway01]

Personally I think this jacket is not too far off. I would be hesitant to move the buttoning point up. 1 1/4" is way too much IMO -- it looks like this will end up putting it closer to your chest than to your waist. To me it looks to be very close to where it should be: just above your natural waist. It is true that the lapels could roll a little farther, but I think the solution isn't to move the button up to the lapel but rather to ask them to roll the lapels down closer to the button.

Similarly I would not shorten the jacket body significantly. The sleeves definitely need to be shortened. They can be slimmed relatively easily.

Narrowing the shoulders risks making your hips look wider than your shoulders. With your build you could stand to have slightly extended shoulders. I would be hesitant to narrow them much.

There is some extra fabric in the small of your back. Could maybe indicate some tightness in the hips but I think it is more likely a reflection of your erect posture. Do you normally stand this erect? If so, ask them whether they can correct for this.

 

[pasoguava]

These responses are so appreciated, thank you both. I agree, breakaway01, that narrowing the shoulders overly would risk making me look bottom heavy. Re: my posture, admittedly I think I was standing pretty erect for the photo. Nonetheless, I'll definitely bring up the extra fabric with them.

I think you and papado are right that if I raise the button stance at all, it should be minimally. Maybe a quarter of an inch, tops. If I do that, I 'll probably shorten the jacket by the same amount which doesn't feel like much. If I do bring in the shoulders, I'll do so minimally, as well.

Thank you both for your input about the button stance especially. It was the thing that I was having a tough time making a decision about. Your thoughts are extremely helpful. Great community here, thanks for being a helpful part of it!

 

[breakaway01]

Glad to be of help. It’s hard but really try to stand naturally when you go back. You may not need any posture adjustment if you do not normally stand this straight.

 

[pbmax]

Jacket length is fine and so is the button stance, just show some cuff and you're in.

 

[pasoguava]

Thanks for the input, pbmax!