Requesting advice on suit alterations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Emrys, Jun 15, 2011.

  1. Emrys

    Emrys Member

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    I just received what I hope will be my first suit (BB 1818 Fitzgerald). I haven't taken it to the tailor yet and wanted to solicit feedback on the fit and what alterations are needed. I was thinking of shortening the sleeves an inch or so, taking in the waist an inch or two and lowering the collar.

    I'm a bit concerned about the pulling across my shoulder blades, is that something a tailor can fix or does it mean the jacket is too small? The shoulders feel good as does the rest of the jacket, so I'm hoping it is fixable.

    Also, I'm currently in the New Haven, CT area and am planning on visiting Umberto the Tailor in Wilton, CT for the alterations, based on some older recommendations I found in the forums. Has anyone had any recent experience with him or any other tailors they can recommend in or around New Haven?

    Thanks for the feedback.

    [​IMG]

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    The aforementioned pulling:
    [​IMG]
     


  2. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Take a picture without the jacket. You may have square shoulders.
     


  3. y3ahind0

    y3ahind0 Senior member

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    Take a picture without the jacket. You may have square shoulders.

    +1 It is not suitable with your shoulder frame.
     


  4. Emrys

    Emrys Member

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    Take a picture without the jacket. You may have square shoulders.
    Here are a few pics without the jacket: [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  5. Emrys

    Emrys Member

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    +1 It is not suitable with your shoulder frame.

    Ok, so it's not something that can be fixed?

    Can anyone with some experience in BB's other cuts (Regent, Madison, etc) recommend one that might fit me better, or should I be looking at another brand?
     


  6. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    It's likely they can fix that, though it's pretty bad. You may find that problem with nearly all brands however. I would have BB do the tailoring so that you have the right of refusal if it goes wrong. Take the waist in and bring the sleeves up as well.
     


  7. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    It can be fixed; I have that problem too. Just make sure you find a good tailer.

    For future reference, a softer/natural shoulder is better if you have high/square shoulders.
     


  8. Roger Everett

    Roger Everett Senior member

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    It can be fixed; I have that problem too. Just make sure you find a good tailer.

    For future reference, a softer/natural shoulder is better if you have high/square shoulders.


    Agree, me also in the fit department. You need a good well trained tailor, one who also does bespoke suits. The sleeves and taking it in a bit is no problem. The rolls in the back can be taken care of in breaking loose the collar and opening up the shoulders to pull the back excess up into the shoulders ( on yours , will probably need to go all the way to sleeve juncture ). Get the head tailor to look at and he should smooth up back and make several marks to know how much needed to tuck in. This will also take care of the roll you have on the shoulders ( which is caused by the aforementioned ). I get this done on every jacket, to some degree ( yours though is a good bit ).

    The one most important thing in getting a suit tailored just right, to you, is finding a good tailor and developing a good relationship with him. When I buy a new suit or SC, the first order of business is going to Daniel ( tailor I use ), and put it on with a dress shirt ( button collar ), let him go over it, and discuss what it needs to make it right to me. Getting a new jacket tuned up usually runs me about $100 +or- 20 investment ( even at Fl. prices ), which keeps me from buying bargin basement shit.
     


  9. Jorge

    Jorge Senior member

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    Sounds like you should return it, if possible.
     


  10. Emrys

    Emrys Member

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    It's likely they can fix that, though it's pretty bad. You may find that problem with nearly all brands however. I would have BB do the tailoring so that you have the right of refusal if it goes wrong. Take the waist in and bring the sleeves up as well.

    This sort of bunching is definitely a trend I've noticed on just about every jacket I've tried on OTR.

    For future reference, a softer/natural shoulder is better if you have high/square shoulders.

    Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

    Agree, me also in the fit department. You need a good well trained tailor, one who also does bespoke suits. The sleeves and taking it in a bit is no problem. The rolls in the back can be taken care of in breaking loose the collar and opening up the shoulders to pull the back excess up into the shoulders ( on yours , will probably need to go all the way to sleeve juncture ). Get the head tailor to look at and he should smooth up back and make several marks to know how much needed to tuck in. This will also take care of the roll you have on the shoulders ( which is caused by the aforementioned ). I get this done on every jacket, to some degree ( yours though is a good bit ).

    The one most important thing in getting a suit tailored just right, to you, is finding a good tailor and developing a good relationship with him. When I buy a new suit or SC, the first order of business is going to Daniel ( tailor I use ), and put it on with a dress shirt ( button collar ), let him go over it, and discuss what it needs to make it right to me. Getting a new jacket tuned up usually runs me about $100 +or- 20 investment ( even at Fl. prices ), which keeps me from buying bargin basement shit.


    Is the cause of the rolls due to there being too much fabric, vertically? Or is it something else?

    Sounds like you should return it, if possible.

    Thankfully, it is possible, though I'm a bit torn. If this is likely to be an issue for me for most OTR suits, as others have suggested, then I may just need to bite the bullet. I'm also small, which has made finding suits that fit decently in general somewhat of a challenge.

    To top it off I'm a bit constrained on time as I have an evening wedding I'm attending in a few weeks that I need a suit for.
     


  11. Roger Everett

    Roger Everett Senior member

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    This sort of bunching is definitely a trend I've noticed on just about every jacket I've tried on OTR.



    Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.



    Is the cause of the rolls due to there being too much fabric, vertically? Or is it something else


    First I wouldn't have Brooks do the tailoring. I did once and had to take everything to good tailor to get fixed up. I feel you deal with semi- tailors ( or alterations person -XXX ), that have so just much time to do the job or on schedule. If like me, you see this roll on all jackets you try on, it's your build ( you're not the average build, that clothes are made for ).
    I don't know all your specs, so I tell you what does it for me. Every jacket, every brand, I try on, has collar roll, some worst then others. It's do to my build and structure. I've lifted and pumped off and on since early 80's, and I stand erect, and am fairly square shouldered, to the point where I don't have much of any slump from back to neck. Although with a love of good food and desert, ( not to mentioned age ) I kinda look like a vertically challenged linebacker @ light of 5/5, and I don't think they buy and wear right off the rack either. IF a jacket fits in the shoulder width ( which is a MFer to fix ), and isn't to bad otherwise and I like the fabric and color ( important ), I pretty much get an idea of what ( $ wise ) I need to further invest. But that's just the cost of having it tweeked to fit, so I feel go putting it on .
    But again first thing first -- take to good tailor and get his opinion on fitting it to you.
     


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