Replicating a 1930’s suit (need help)

[Spinster Jones]

1. What flannel weight would you say the suit has? And what would be the best mill to go for (Fox Flannel?). And what do you think the closest match would be? E.g;
Herringbone flannel
540g flannel
720g coating

2. Can anyone recommend a resource for older suit patterns? I’ve even rented books at the local library! I’m having a hard time actually finding suits like this. I also have doubts whether the avaible tailors would be able to recreate something like this from pictures alone.

Pictures are stolen from @kai_hayano.

 

[paxonus]

Check out thefedoralounge.com.

 

[bdavro23]

There are plenty of people who can recreate this style, including many MTM companies. Is there a particular reason you would want to do so? I ask since the resulting suit would likely come across as an affectation or "costume", rather than look like modern clothing, and that can have unwanted consequences.

 

[comrade]

"rather than look like modern clothing, and that can have unwanted consequences."

Like being arrested by Eliot Ness.

 

[Spinster Jones]

There are plenty of people who can recreate this style, including many MTM companies.

There isn’t really much help in you writing that. Why couldn’t you just have written the specific companies and names? Which is what I’m asking for.

since the resulting suit would likely come across as an affectation or "costume"

And the age old parody of the Styleforum-member being afraid of anything that doesn’t adhere to strict rules is getting kinda regressive in means, and not really healthy for discussion. When someone asks a question the debate following can’t always be a debate of whether or not they should have asked the question in the first place.

 

[dieworkwear]

A good tailor can make that for you. In the US, the cost of a good bespoke suit generally starts around $4,000

Don't recommend tracking down patterns and giving them to a tailor. It will not be a useful exercise and may even be a bit insulting.

 

[adrianvo]

There are plenty of people who can recreate this style, including many MTM companies. Is there a particular reason you would want to do so? I ask since the resulting suit would likely come across as an affectation or "costume", rather than look like modern clothing, and that can have unwanted consequences.

Imagine being this insecure.

Food for thought:

 

[dieworkwear]

Food for thought:

 

[classicalthunde]

1. What flannel weight would you say the suit has? And what would be the best mill to go for (Fox Flannel?). And what do you think the closest match would be? E.g;
Herringbone flannel
540g flannel
720g coating

2. Can anyone recommend a resource for older suit patterns? I’ve even rented books at the local library! I’m having a hard time actually finding suits like this. I also have doubts whether the avaible tailors would be able to recreate something like this from pictures alone.

Pictures are stolen from @kai_hayano.

1. you might also check out London Lounge forum as well, they prefer 'old world' heavier cloth. I would venture a guess that the 480g or 540g would suit the bill here (heavier for a colder climate, lighter for a warmer one)...the 720g is going to be closer to a peacoat/overcoat weight. I haven't had any first hand experiences with it, but some folks on the LL like the heavier Minnis flannels as well, it would have a lower price point than the Fox stuff

2. if you have the bucks for bespoke, check out Frank Shattuck (@Toninno ) this stuff is right up his alley. It also looks like some of the stuff @Encathol Epistemia has had made up by his tailors.

Have you worked with any tailors in the past? where are you located? I'd just ask a tailor if he could do the following style details for a 3-piece suit: ventless jacket w/ triple patch pockets and a half belted back, full cut trousers w/ high rise and double reverse pleats and a prominent cuff

 

[jonathanS]

1. What flannel weight would you say the suit has? And what would be the best mill to go for (Fox Flannel?). And what do you think the closest match would be? E.g;
Herringbone flannel
540g flannel
720g coating

2. Can anyone recommend a resource for older suit patterns? I’ve even rented books at the local library! I’m having a hard time actually finding suits like this. I also have doubts whether the avaible tailors would be able to recreate something like this from pictures alone.

Pictures are stolen from @kai_hayano.

Fox Heritage Flannel would be where I'd go. The heavy weight Minnis is quite underrated (and very good as well). LL has Flannels but they're limited run.

Any bespoke tailor should be able replicate that styling. Personally, I wouldn't wear something like that, but, if you want it, they should be able to recreate it.

 

[Spinster Jones]

you might also check out London Lounge forum as well, they prefer 'old world' heavier cloth.

Thanks, I’ll check it out. Fedora Lounge was, as the name implied - a forum for hatlovers. I’m weird, not crazy.

Have you worked with any tailors in the past? where are you located?

No, I haven’t! I decided that I had to learn a thing or two before going in for an appointment. I’m quite picky, but not assertive if I don’t know what I want, and I wouldn’t have been happy if someone pushed me towards a modern cut skinny suit, because «that’s just allll the raaage, Jonesy».

I’m based in Oslo, Norway, and I just can’t fathom someone having heavy vintage flannels in stock waiting to make them into a replica of a suit from the 1930s for a fair price - and with a good ending result. But that’s just expecting the Holy Grail. So I’m all ears.

 

[Spinster Jones]

A good tailor can make that for you. In the US, the cost of a good bespoke suit generally starts around $4,000

Don't recommend tracking down patterns and giving them to a tailor. It will not be a useful exercise and may even be a bit insulting.

Well, it wouldn’t have to be bespoke. Since you can’t spell bespoke without broke.

I see where you’re coming from though, with them cutting the pattern and all. But that’s why a pattern to a MTM could be an option - if that’s an option?

But I’m also suprised by the versatility of cutters if they’re able to recreate/create a 1930’s pattern that easily. I thought it would almost be a «lost art», known by the few.

 

[dieworkwear]

Well, it wouldn’t have to be bespoke. Since you can’t spell bespoke without broke.

I see where you’re coming from though, with them cutting the pattern and all. But that’s why a pattern to a MTM could be an option - if that’s an option?

But I’m also suprised by the versatility of cutters if they’re able to recreate/create a 1930’s pattern that easily. I thought it would almost be a «lost art», known by the few.

I don't see why a bespoke tailor can't create that, so long as their house style is compatible. Looks like you just want a structured coat with a wider silhouette and some details on the back of the coat. I've seen one of my tailors (Steed) make things that are similar for clients with vintage sensibilities.

I think you take on more risk with MTM. Personally wouldn't recommend it for something like this.

I think you started another thread on this in the past, right? Did you try the RTW brands recommended to you?

I will say, if you find fedoras to be "crazy," I think this style of suit will have the same social effect. Some people don't mind and they want to dress how they please. I think that's totally fine. But worth thinking about the message you're sending if you're spending thousands of dollars on a suit. This style is basically like wearing a fedora.

 

[Spinster Jones]

These are apparently the local tailors interpretations of «bespoke suits».

I might be wrong, but can this be right?

 

[dieworkwear]

These are apparently the local tailors interpretations of «bespoke suits».

I might be wrong, but can this be right?

Roughly speaking, bespoke just means the garment is made from scratch. There are many styles of bespoke suits.