Replicating a 1930’s suit (need help)

[Spinster Jones]

Roughly speaking, bespoke just means the garment is made from scratch. There are many styles of bespoke suits.

Yea yea of course, but the first picture of the brown suit is his interpretation of a 1940’s suit?
I wouldn’t go as far as to call that a style...
The prices he puts up are good, but I’m questioning the cutting.

The pants in picture 2 looks boxy/bunched up as well. Hmm...

 

[Spinster Jones]

I think you started another thread on this in the past, right? Did you try the RTW brands recommended to you?

I contacted Old Town but they couldn’t ship it as a gift. And that leads to it being cheaper to buy a ticket to England, travel to their shop in Norfolk, pick the pieces up, stay for the weekend and travel back, than it would be to ship them in.

But I got into a serious Monty Don-binge, so I guess the thread did accomplish something.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Second the Frank Shattuck suggestion. 1936 in particular seems to be his favorite year and if you look on his social media you'll see lots of things similar to what you describe, a silhouette that is both timeless yet subtly era-specific. He'll of course also be able to hook you up with the appropriate materials, and seems to regularly dress European clients via Skype, so no travel for you. My eyes water at how much this sort of ultra high end project is going to cost you though so before you pull that trigger, unless the cost does not mean much to you, you might want to be sure that it's actually something you will use a lot of, and not something you'll wear once to a costume party and then feel self-conscious in.

Whatever happened to Bookster? Has anyone actually bought from the site that was stood up after their previous incarnation imploded a few years back? They seem to now be an MTO/MTM operation, and they do have the templates you're looking for, such as jackets with biswing shoulders, half belt backs, hard-3-button jackets, etc. and pants with high rises, big pleats, fishtail backs, etc. @Spinster Jones as far as making this thing you have in mind, this is probably the most affordable bet.

 

[dieworkwear]

Personally wouldn't recommend people do remote fittings like this. Especially if the cutter has never seen or measured you in person. Bespoke is risky enough. I would not cut corners on the fitting.

 

[Spinster Jones]

Yea, I have doubts about the remote fittings too, unfortunately. Would probably be cheaper and easier to go MTM if doing it online.

you might want to be sure that it's actually something you will use a lot of, and not something you'll wear once to a costume party and then feel self-conscious in.

You guys bring this up all the time. I don’t understand where you guys live or what you do for a living, but it seems much more rigid in its rules than Good Ole’ Norway.

The 1930’s style, especially in heavy woollens, isn’t so far from the bunad - which is socially accepted to pretty much wear at any fine occasion. And a bunad for men (depending on region) - FYI - costs around 5-8000£ to have handmade/bespoke.

It’s due time someone changes it up a bit, I think. People look out of place and silly in ugly suits as well.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

In that case, try http://bookster.co.uk/

Their MTO/MTM page has a ton of parameters you can enter and I'd be nervous to just send off so much information into the ether, along with a sizeable chunk of change, and hope for a good result, but they do have a phone # you can call, so maybe you can go that route, show them some of these pictures, and see what they think they can do for you.

 

[comrade]

Second the Frank Shattuck suggestion. 1936 in particular seems to be his favorite year and if you look on his social media you'll see lots of things similar to what you describe, a silhouette that is both timeless yet subtly era-specific. He'll of course also be able to hook you up with the appropriate materials, and seems to regularly dress European clients via Skype, so no travel for you. My eyes water at how much this sort of ultra high end project is going to cost you though so before you pull that trigger, unless the cost does not mean much to you, you might want to be sure that it's actually something you will use a lot of, and not something you'll wear once to a costume party and then feel self-conscious in.

Whatever happened to Bookster? Has anyone actually bought from the site that was stood up after their previous incarnation imploded a few years back? They seem to now be an MTO/MTM operation, and they do have the templates you're looking for, such as jackets with biswing shoulders, half belt backs, hard-3-button jackets, etc. and pants with high rises, big pleats, fishtail backs, etc. @Spinster Jones as far as making this thing you have in mind, this is probably the most affordable bet.

Nothing about their styles says 1930s early 40s. It's just mid range big shouldered British "country"
ware. Previously they specialized in tweeds with the hand of heavy cardboard.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Nothing about their styles says 1930s early 40s. It's just mid range big shouldered British "country"
ware. Previously they specialized in tweeds with the hand of heavy cardboard.

They have the distinctive bells and whistles though, like the half belt back and biswing shoulders, which I haven't found with any other MTM.

I just noticed that some recent stuff in the Polo RL lineup of tailored garments might also fit the bill?

 

[comrade]

Chinatown (1974) is an excellent source for US menswear in the 1930s. This is mainstream
high-end clothing, not Northeastern Ivy elite style.

 

[somatoform]

I don't know, is Scott Frasier Collection considered 30s-esque specifically or just high waisted relaxed stuff?

Scott Fraser Collection

Menswear. From London with love.

scottfrasercollection.com

Scroll to the bottom for tailoring.

 

[comrade]

I don't know, is Scott Frasier Collection considered 30s-esque specifically or just high waisted relaxed stuff?

Scott Fraser Collection

Menswear. From London with love.

scottfrasercollection.com

Scroll to the bottom for tailoring.

Not really. It's just casual high-waisted stuff.
Actually, it's more late 40s,early 50s before the
"Ivy onslaught"

 

[willyto]

Check out thefedoralounge.com.

Unfortunately it's literally dead. The tailoring subforum died many years ago and only the outerwear is up and running with activity.

Thanks, I’ll check it out. Fedora Lounge was, as the name implied - a forum for hatlovers. I’m weird, not crazy.



No, I haven’t! I decided that I had to learn a thing or two before going in for an appointment. I’m quite picky, but not assertive if I don’t know what I want, and I wouldn’t have been happy if someone pushed me towards a modern cut skinny suit, because «that’s just allll the raaage, Jonesy».

I’m based in Oslo, Norway, and I just can’t fathom someone having heavy vintage flannels in stock waiting to make them into a replica of a suit from the 1930s for a fair price - and with a good ending result. But that’s just expecting the Holy Grail. So I’m all ears.

The fedora lounge once hosted some of the best collectors and vintage wearers online so don't dismiss it so fast. You just have to go through old threads if you want information.

Since you're based in Oslo you should contact https://www.instagram.com/noramsiltberg/ and book a flight to Stockholm.

I think this is going to be your answer. Go to her, her work is just beyond perfection and she pays attention to all the details that matter. Not just "vintage" style missing all the good points of a well done belted back, it's not as simple as adding a belt.







In the UK Timothy Everest seem to be able to do it properly.

I contacted Old Town but they couldn’t ship it as a gift. And that leads to it being cheaper to buy a ticket to England, travel to their shop in Norfolk, pick the pieces up, stay for the weekend and travel back, than it would be to ship them in.

But I got into a serious Monty Don-binge, so I guess the thread did accomplish something.

I didn't have the customs problem back when I visited but that's what I did back in 2016 and I met some Japanese customers who traveled to the UK to do just that amongst other things of course. They're lovely people and their work is great.

Now, if you want RTW options you should check Simon James Cathcart offerings or Ralph Lauren Polo and RRL on Ebay. New RL stuff is very expensive but be aware that some of the RL stuff has the belt placed too low or the jackets have been modernised(specially the more recent ones). Ralph Lauren has done a lot of belted back jackets through the years, also cardigans and stuff like that.

Ralph Lauren has sold amazing stuff like this for example with all the bells and whistles:




Simon James Cathcart has been doing belted back suits and sport coats for years now in both 1920s and 1930s styling. His current offering is this one:

Tailoring – Cathcart

Fine classic tailoring by Cathcart Heritage. Made of premium materials, built to last a lifetime. All art deco, 1920s and 1930s styles in various designs.

simonjamescathcart.com

I've got a few vintage originals myself but there's a lot of competition for them and some dealers hoard them in order to bump up the price and speculate with them so prices go quite high lately. Never paid more than $500 for a full suit and even paid a lot less than that around $200-$300 but some try to sell them for +$1500 for a full suit or $800 for a single jacket.

I regularly wear belted back suits, blazers, sport coats and cardigans. Most of mine are reproductions by SJC for example or Japanese brands.

 

[Zerase]

Was just about to recommend Nora Siltberg but I see that @willyto beat me to it. While in Stockholm you might as well visit Alexander Marchesan's vintage shop whenever he re-opens it. He most certainly have some Swedish 1930's suit hanging around.

 

[Spinster Jones]

Yh, I agree with Comrade Stalin.

And some great resources coming through from willyto and Zerase. Thanks!
I haven't pulled the trigger on SJC, but if it's as wearable as you say, I might just do it.

If one needs inspiration go check out the new version of All creatures great and small.

I think 30’s style (if generalized to the extreme), atleast as I understand it, embodies a couple principles (if one were to have a discussion):

1. Natural fabrics (heavy woollens, heavy corduroy, thick linens and cottons)
2. Three-piece suit (vest, trousers and a jacket).
3. The jacket should be a jacket. As it should not need anything to be worn over it. Has to reach beneath your bum. The trousers should be high waisted and fall straight, should be worn with suspenders. Vest should be 6-buttons, no lapels.
4. Worn to work in, alas it must be sturdy (tweeds, meltons etc.)
5. One stands freely to swap out the vest for a knitted one, which makes one able to use it without a jacket as well. One might also go with a heavy knitted sweater. As it's a high waisted pant, everything knitted should end at the waist.
6. Boots. Like the Islay from Crockett.
7. And, in my opinion, the crowning jewel: The principle of the double V;

• The spearpoint-shirt have to strech far enough out to reach under the natural V created by the high-buttoned vest.
• Alas one creates a V from the vest, and a reversed V with the spearpoint. Creating a diamond-pattern for the tie to be worn in.
• Emphasizes and "hugs" the tie, which creates quite a nice contrast.
• There's a third V from the jacket going along the lines of the vest, this determines BOTH the button-stance of the jacket, as well as the lapels.

Do you guys agree or disagree with this? Would love to hear your thoughts.

 

[Despos]

Do you subscribe to “Vintagebursche” on you tube Or instagram? Think he understands vintage clothing In an authentic way.
problems i anticipate are clothes in real life seldom duplicate photo images. sewing techniques today, especially MTM make garments look modern. Getting a vintage look is getting proportions right And a bit of nonchalance in the sewing. you want to find the right tailor who understands this and not try to get a tailor to replicate a look if they don’t understand how to execute it in cutting, fitting and sewing. Find Someone familiar with doing period work. May take a few garments to get it close and it has to work with your body type as well.