REMOVING TROUSER PLEATS

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by a tailor, Jan 13, 2012.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    REMOVING TROUSER PLEATS
    The edge of the pleat is at one with the front crease on the straight grain of the cloth.
    It is not good form to cut trousers at an angle, as they will not hang straight.
    Lets keep that in mind.

    First step the waist band must be removed. As the main pleat unfolds, it comes out in the direction of the pleats opening.In the reverse pleat, the cloth comes out to the side and the small pleat follows it. See the dotted lines, this is the cloth to be removed.
    The pocket of course, must be removed and then replaced.
    The waist band is then returned and the crease line remains is its proper position.

    The regular pleat unfolds to the front.
    This means the entire fly assembly must be removed and then replaced. A more time consuming job.You can see that if the cloth were cut at the side, the crease line would be pulled to the side.
    This would be the same as cutting the trouser front at an angle, and we know thats not good.
    So much for the main pleat.
    the small forward pleat would be unfolded to the side. this means redoing the pocket also.

    On the reverse pleats, both pleats are cut off at the side.at the same time. Less labor time.
    This is why removing reverse pleats is more practical.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2012


  2. GoldenTribe

    GoldenTribe Senior member

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    I'm afraid your picture isn't showing up.

    I recommend imgur.com
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2012


  3. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    +1, would like to see this
     


  4. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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  5. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    Nice post. I have several pairs that I am planning on taking to my tailor soon.

    BTW, is this a complex job? Assuming a capable tailor, should a good result be assured or is this a risky undertaking?
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


  6. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Thanks for this, Alex.
    How do you feel about darts replacing pleats? Two darts would look strange. One might not be too bad.
    Also, if pants have two shallow pleats, is it possible to change them into one deep pleat?
     


  7. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Best way to remove trouser pleats are a new pair of trousers.

    Alex's way, though, is probably second best.

    Alex, how about converting zip fly to button fly? I ask because someone else will eventually.
     


  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    thanks sanguis
    that will be a big help. but what is the procedure ?
     


  9. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hi cbbuff
    yes, capable is the key word.
    but no matter who you use, accidents can happen to anyone.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    darts are used to reduce a measurement, or to create fullness.
    replacing the pleats with darts does not reduce the cloth at the hip level, it is still there.
    what would happen is that there would be a bulge of cloth on the trouser front.
    it would match the bulge that fits the seat in back. that is the result of the dart or darts in back.

    make two shallow pleats into one? i havent tried that one but its possible. dont know if it would work out smoothly.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2012


  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    WHAT WHAT? second best? LOL

    zip to button? yes. also button to zip, yes.
     


  12. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    ^Thanks, Alex. I have a pair of old Air Force pants that were my uncle's. They have a single forward pleat on the crease and a dart between that and the pocket. He gave them to me when I was in high school and I wore them through that and college. Then I had some pants made in the mid 90's in the same style. They fit really well. In the late 90's I switched to flat fronts. The past few years, my has preference switched back to a single forward pleat. I hadn't thought about darts till recently, when I saw Patrick Chu of Chan wearing flat fronts with a single dart, maybe an inch forward of the side pockets. I asked about it and he said it was for those w/ large hips and/or seats. He said that if they made me flat front pants, I'd probably benefit from it.
    I agree with you for the most part. My questions are basically academic. The experiences above made me think I should mention those possibilities here to add to the options available to people. I don't think I've ever had anything done to pants except have the lower legs tapered a bit and the hems cuffed. Even having the waist taken in or let out scares me. But I could understand someone having a affinity for a particular pair, such as part of a suit, and wanting them altered. For the vast majority of pants, it probably isn't worth the time, money and risk that the pants won't turn out right.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


  13. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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  14. Zackb911

    Zackb911 Senior member

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    Out of curiosity what could one expect to pay to have this done?
     


  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    those uniforms were made from the toughest woolens. no longer made in the u s a.
    chu of chan is right, that side dart creates fullness at the bottom of the dart.
    and thats where its needed for the wide hips and/or prominent seats.
    it also helps to keep flat front pants from having gaping side pockets.

    the side pleat on pleated pants is in reality a side dart that has been opened.
    if you would remove the lengthwise stitches on a dart., what you have is a pleat.


    here is an edit.
    there is a source for military woolens in the USA . its "Hamburger Woolen co".
    they sell uniforms and equipment, but also sell military woolens.
    i do know that they sell small cuts of wool. dont know if to tailors only or to public.
    the woolens may be made in the USA or overseas.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2012


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