Relation shoulder width <> yoke width in a shirt

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Louis XIV, Jan 5, 2013.

  1. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    Hello!

    I'd like to know if there is a relation between the shoulder width and the yoke width in a shirt.

    For example my shoulder width, measured from the edge of the collar band to the shoulder, is 14cm.
    Could I now determine the yoke width I need from this measurement?
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2013


  2. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I guess you'd need other measurements, like collar size and/or chest circumference...

    My tailor doesn't measure the point-to-point for my jackets, just shoulder width (measured from collar felt) and half chest.
     


  3. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    All my collars measure 37.5cm and feel perfect.
    Current shirts have a chest circumference of 98 to 100cm, but I am restricted in movement.
    To solve this problem I want to increase the necessary measurements.
    I thought of increasing the chest circumference to 103cm and maybe the yoke, but as my shoulder width won't change I am uncertain.
    The yoke of my currenct shirts, measured at the place where the yoke is mounted to the back of the shirt, is 41cm.
     


  4. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    The yoke sits mostly at the top of your shoulders, so I don't think increasing its size will allow for greater freedom of movement. You probably need more material across the back. Have you considered adding side pleats?
     


  5. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    I have posted in the Tailors Thread and was adviced to do so by OTCtailor.
    While I see why I am advised to do so, I have to admit that I like my shirts to be as clean as possible, no darts, no pleats, french front.
    Thus I would prefer to solve the problem without adding pleats.
    Also I read a lot of articels on shirts by Mr. Kabbaz and he is of the opinion a well constructed shirt won't need pleats.

    To be honest, I am afraid my current MTM tailor might be really poor at taking measurements.
    If the next shirt, with all the changes he advised me to do to a previous one, turns out to be as poor a fit, I won't accept it, ask my money back and won't return.
    As a student it annoys me to spend hundreds of euros for MTM shirts which do not come out to my satisfaction, especially as I stressed the fact I would like a slim shirt but without the will to trade any of it's slimness for restriction in everyday movement like sitting at a table, driving a car or picking something up the ground.
     


  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    shirtmakers have different yoke patterns.
    so, though there should be a correlation..
    it is hard to determine with seeing the pattern out flat
     


  7. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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