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REEVES OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by David Reeves, Sep 13, 2013.

  1. Seamless

    Seamless Senior member

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    She's right though. I've been rebuilding a rotation this year... next year I will be in New York in June...
     
  2. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thinking of Summer already......

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  3. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Some Key looks and trends this fall/winter at Reeves.

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    Last edited: Jan 12, 2016
    4 people like this.
  4. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Fall Retrospective.

    After a big push by designers and cloth houses on Tweed last fall/winter, this years “fall cloth” for Reeves has been lighter weight flannel. Both Loro Piana and Scabal released new, and chunky flannel books last year and this got a lot people in the tailoring community (myself included) very excited about this cold weather cloth.

    The color of choice was the ever popular ink blue or French navy blue that we have been seeing in menswear for quite some time although the blues are getting even lighter. The big surprise was the second color that was pushed by Loro Piana especially, namely burgundy or claret. Silhouettes continued to lengthen and lapels got wider at Reeves as stylistically I am feeling more and more a trend towards the late 70s and early 80s as an influence on fashion, art and design.

    Tweed was still very popular and I think will be for some time to come, the versatility and ease of it is ideal for the less structured working lives we mostly all have now. The old world charm of this cloth is still very hip and I am even seeing bankers ordering full tweed suits now which is quite extraordinary.

    Finally I started seeing a resurgence in pinstripes and larger stripes amongst CEOs and bankers. Its interesting to see these cloths come back to the business world and at first it seems in contrast to the tweed phenomenon at least if we look at suits and cloths using their traditional signifiers. What we are seeing is a general trend across all fields towards nostalgia but with a need to be seen as dynamic and above all successful individuals in uncertain and changing times. This attitude is pushing out the “timeless” “four season” plain navy or charcoal suit which is all about staying still and anonymity.

    The leading edge are past now very dated ideas about “appropriate” for town, country, business or pleasure. It doesn’t matter if you are wearing H Lesser Chalk Stripes or Harris Tweed as long as your tailoring is of the best quality and you look great wearing it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2016
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  5. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    A wide shot of the new show room.

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    Last edited: Jan 19, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  6. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Rain stripe cloth H Lesser.

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  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Fitting from yesterday.

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  9. NYDRH

    NYDRH Senior member

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    What is the fabric here, is this lightweight?
     
  10. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    No its a tweed. Its not finished though and the vest back is just a "try on", the real vest back will be put on later and pressed properly.
     
  11. PaintSplattered

    PaintSplattered Senior member

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    Enjoyed reading your Fall Retrospective. Your work looks beautiful. Definitely out of my reach, price wise, but I wanted to say I admire your work and enjoy looking at it.

    Love the H Lesser Rain stripe cloth.

    Are you seeing any sort of a move towards higher rise trousers? I'm a fan of a high front rise, as it works for my body shape. By "high rise" I mean 13.5" to 14" in the front and preferably having double pleats. For me, trousers like that are the most comfortable thing I've ever worn.
     
  12. NYDRH

    NYDRH Senior member

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    David, it is possible I am making a mistake but I meant the white suit on the form is that tweed?
     
  13. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Oh sorry, I did not click the spoiler image. That is a "winter white" suit made from Scabal Ascona which I would describe as being like a slightly lighter and more refined cotton "moleskin". The weight is 12.6 ounces so a little on the heavier side.

    I do have access to a couple of white tweeds but so far have not used any.
     
  14. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thank you very much.

    I like higher rise trousers and I encourage them here, but I am not seeing them hitting mainstream.
     
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  15. NYDRH

    NYDRH Senior member

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    Ok got it, I had a feeling you were talking about the other post. I thought the white suit was something for spring/summer. Scabal Ascona, that is a new one to me, you're a wizard with the fabrics. I know the thought of a three piece in the summer is a bit incongruous given the desire for less fabric, not more i.e. the vest but I still like the idea of looking like a bad ass in the heat.
     
  16. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I generally make up suits as three pieces for myself it's a good force multiplier because it's almost like having two suits. I have a DB three piece white linen suit for summer and I am going to do another this summer in a single breasted version, I could get addicted to white suits for sure.
     
  17. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    When you make up a three-piece double breasted suit, is the waistcoat usually also double breasted or single breasted? Is there a convention for that? A double-double sounds like it would be a lot of fabric there in front. Also, if you're making up a double breasted suit with a waistcoat, does that affect how you would cut the jacket, perhaps to reveal more of the waistcoat?
     
  18. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Yes the only time I have seen it is with a single breasted vest, otherwise I think visually it would be too much and would be rather impractical and uncomfortable with so many buttons and overlap of cloth.

    I think you have to look at the synergy between vest and coat on every suit although for me its not something that is agonized over, its more intuitive. With my DB I went for a slightly higher buttoning vest and kept the button placement and break on the coat fairly classic. The rationale being for the coat to be open when worn with the vest, the vest makes it look put together but with the suit being linen and the coat being open you end up with a looser fitting and layered garment which is good for hot climates.
     
  19. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    This is the white linen DB but without the vest btw.

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  20. Thin White Duke

    Thin White Duke Senior member

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    Frank Nitti in 'The Untouchables' film.
    Might be the only time I can recall seeing a DB with a waistcoat that I really liked.
     

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