REEVES OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by David Reeves, Sep 13, 2013.

  1. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have head of this splitting, too. I haven't as much mohair experience as David by far but I have never had a problem either. I don't think the claim was about jobbers or the like. I think it was referring to older, 100% mohair. Everything I have is a mohair wool blend for that reason. With Cape Kid having the highest mohair content at 60% kid mohair.
     


  2. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Just really thinking about what could cause the splitting like that, but it could very well be that the cloth was old and dried out causing the fibres to be brittle, if the cloth was made from short rather than long fibers this could be a problem as well. Must admit I don't think I have made anything in 100% Mohair, but I have made things quite often in a 90% mohair.
     


  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Who makes the super high mohair content cloth you used (90%)? I have never seen it, though I also never have looked.
    Have you used cape kid? From what I can tell, it is your kind of cloth. Very lightweight, very slick and shiny )but also dry looking) and has a very fine feel. I should get another one.
     


  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I even worry about blend, say something is 20% mohair that to me means one out of every five threads is susceptible to breaking. Whether the garment is still whole or not you're going to have broken fibers.

    The breaking of mohair does make sense to me, think of how sharp the creases get and such, can probably only take so much. I always think of a dried out twig snapping under pressure whereas it would simply bend otherwise.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014


  5. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Dormeuil does a 90%

    I have a cape kidd book at home but it isnt the kind of cloth I would generally use, I would typically use Dormeuil, Scabal or Taylor and Lodge, Much nicer quality and finish.
     


  6. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Nah, you talkin crazy man.....
     


  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Tailcoat fitting

    [​IMG]
     


  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Forward fitting size 34 chest, height 6 ft

    [​IMG]
     


  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    I thought I was skinny...
     


  10. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Fitting wearing tee shirt?
     


  11. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I have overcome greater adversity.
     


  12. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Hes a bit younger than you clee ;)
     


  13. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    I've always found the biggest challenge with a "drop 10" client is they either want to show off their fitness, in which case you have to talk them out of an ill-proportioned result, or they want to hide it all together and you have to give shape to an empty sack.

    Looks like you've got that balance spot on, masculine without either of the above issues.
     


  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For that particular client it looks like the chest is a bit tight as there is some bowing. I'd prefer to the collar and lapels to cover more of the chest more like it appears on the athletic client in the 3 piece fitting.
     


  15. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Difficult though, here we have a relatively wide neck and shoulders in relation to the very slim chest and body. If anything the chest is built up, the suit is mainly hanging from the shoulders and the structure is giving him shape. With the Athletic client the suit is the opposite he's going for that Daniel Craig look (I suspect) the suit is quite close everywhere, except actually, in the waist area as more suppression there would look rather strange.
     


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