Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by David Reeves, Sep 13, 2013.
fantastic work on the trousers.
Just fitted this, slim down sleeves, give a touch more in the half girth.
Fitting a ladies tailcoat at 6.30.....that should be a tough one.
How fitted is she? I can imagine that looking really great or really not so great.
I think its going to be good, pleased with the fitting but a bit to be done. Here are the trousers, need to raise the back balance a lot and take in the hips.
That's going to look great. I like how you did the taper.
No double ribbon on the tailcoat trousers? What material did you use?
There will be, its a try on trouser. I used Taylor and Lodge wool/mohair.
Drop 10 fitting, Athletic build, Dormeuil Tonik Mohair. Client is a size 45 chest.
I will be lowering the button stance, lowering the vest break, the client doesn't like the roping so that gets changed to a natural shoulder.
He needs more lapel.
He's a green beret....he gets the lapel width he wants!
I think though that stylistically, a large man, or a very slim man, or in fact anybody can go for a stylistically slimmer or wider lapel. As long as it's not like 2" wide or 70s wide I don't have an issue with people having their clothes how they want them. I mean if it was up to me I'd keep the roping.
Not that I have a problem myself with the lapel width, I don't think it's particularly narrow at all.
What does "vest break" refer to? Where the roll falls?
Fair enough, can you wear mohair suits all year round?
I think it depends on the weight, color and context really.
A light weight, silver mohair suit is more for spring/summer (in the day or evening), but you could wear a navy mohair in a heavier weight all year round, as a more dressier suit, especially in the evening.
Before I retired this, I used to wear it all year round, its made from 9.5 oz Dormeuil Tonik
David, I know you are a big supporter of mohair, but I am curious, have you ever seen it split or fray prematurely? I remember some saying that they have experienced mohair suit splitting at the trouser crease and such. I love they way they look, but I am concerned with how "brittle" they seem to be.
Honestly have never experienced or even heard of this, I have probably owned personally about 15 mohair suits of various weights and composition and over the past 15 years I have sold a lot more than that. I can only imagine some Igent bought something dodgy from a jobber or picked up something that had been lying around for 30+ years.
Quite unusually I never deal with jobbers, always the source, that way if something happens like that my client and I can take it up with the manufacturer. In rare cases (and I mean like once every 4 years) when a cloth "fails" for some reason, the S.O.P is to refund the client or remake for them and let them keep the original garment. This actually happened to me once with a silk and wool suit, it was strange, but a combination of water and slight friction would cause very slight color loss. With little fuss the manufacturer paid for the make up of the garment and refunded the cloth, and I got to keep the suit 4 years later I am still wearing the suit....although I keep it out of the rain!
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