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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by David Reeves, Sep 13, 2013.
Green Mohair suit.
I've been a fan for a long time but I haven't looked at this thread in months--I'm pleased to see your business has really developed! Next time I'm in NYC for any period of time I will hit you up for a MTM. Best of luck!
What's the additional marginal cost to fully canvass a suit from a half canvass? I'm wondering because many brands have huge price differences between their full and half canvass models.
Thanks again for your insight!
Its rather hard to say because it depends on where you get the work done for one thing. Also the cost to the manufacturer may not be so great but factor in selling it wholesale to a store or putting it in your own fancy store and that $300 or so is a big cost increase (I suppose thats a rough answer).
Finally though a lot of people go on about full canvas and of course its important but a fully canvassed off the rack suit or a Bespoke one also probably has a lot of other things going for it. High end pressing, finishing trims, linings, cloths etc all cost the manufacturer and finally you the consumer.
Thanks David. For a layman such as myself, its hard to see how an additional half piece of canvass would add so much to the price. With BB for example, their 1818 suits range from $999 to $1299. But jumping up to Golden Fleece brings you up to $1900 - $2100. But of course man hours have to be considered as well.
Thanks for the info!
I am not a BB expert, but I would imagine there is quite a bit more different b/t the mainline and Black Fleece than just the canvas. Including the fact that it's their "luxury" label, so they basically *have* to charge more.
Besides, it's not like the amount of canvasing has perfect correlation with the quality of a suit. There are some really terrible full-canvas suits out there, and some really great half-canvas ones. There is more to quality than just the amount of canvas.
Exactly. That said, their margins are probably high on GF suits (as you say, it's their luxury line).
Of course though looking at those higher end BB price points, for an extra $400 I can make you a suit. In fact most of my suits online that you see run at 25 on average.
I don't doubt it. I'll drop in next time I'm in NYC; look forward to seeing your items up close.
Plus, BB generally sucks, in my opinion.
David, how much do you charge for pants these days? Not MTM, but bespoke? (I am not sure if you have multiple levels of bespoke currently, aside from fabric/details choices...)
You'd be looking at $500-$750 generally. I don't charge for extra details and features on things unless they are really unusual or complicated. As standard I use higher end cloths like Lesser, Zegna, Dormeuil etc.
David Reeves reviewed by the Franklin Report
The Franklin Report encourages users to recommend their favorite sources. Only if there is a consensus of agreement on the reliability and value of a professional, will The Franklin Repot then write their own review, based upon the views of past clients and industry experts. This differentiates The Franklin Report from their competition, as the other websites only allow for customer blogging with no edited or curated content.
David Reeves creates suits that put the principles of classic British style in a modern light. His garments, tailored carefully for each client, achieve a look of restrained cool - think of the hippest guy in the boardroom, or the most put-together in the club. Being an English expat and graduate of Savile Row, it's unsurprising that Reeves brings a distinctly British feel to his work. Sometimes it's a subtle influence - the cut of a lapel or the choice of lining, other times it's more direct - clients say no one does a smarter tweed. All suits show a devotion to fit, proportion and unique detailing.
Before coming to the states, Reeves worked for Gieves and Hawkes, a Savile Row institution. Here, has spent time at a variety of high-profile fashion companies (including Prada and Commes des Garcons) before opening his own shop in 2008. Working out of a small, charming space on Union Square, he fits clients primarily for full suits, though he can also make coats or jackets as needed. Reeves offers three levels of customization for each suit - ranging from mostly pre-made to almost entirely hand-stitched. In all cases, he relies on a handpicked group of experts to create the garments before he applied finishing touches himself. Turnaround time varies depending on the garment, but is usually around eight weeks.
Clients, many in the tech and finance industries, appreciate Reeves as a tailor and as a person, saying he is friendly, down-to-earth and (naturally) a sharp dresser himself. Prices, though obviously higher than off-the-rack clothing, are a relative bargain in the world of custom suiting, his rates are a touch lower than the competition. Those in search of a shiny club suit or venerable Italian import may want to look elsewhere - those in search of classic British cool at a good price should seek out David Reeves.
Representative Client Comments:
"I want to wear my suit every day." "I feel completely comfortable telling David just to do what he thinks is best. It always turns out fantastic." "A good guy - I trust him, and enjoyed talking style when I did the fitting." "I had never used a tailor before, and David was a great first experience - he's made all my suits since then."
Thank you very much TC, Its come along way since I was carrying a bag of Dormeuil and Loro Piana cloth books around the city! That said there is a long way to go, Im going for that knighthood like Paul Smith
Go for it! A lot of your suits from this era will be collector's items with the knighthood
That said, have you ever met any well known tailors/designers through your work? I've consistently heard that Paul Smith is a really nice guy, while certain famous Italian designers are 'not so nice'.
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