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Redemption & spalla camicia (was: tale of overcoats & yoox woe)

literasyme

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Probably hardly worth a new thread, but I just received (and am returning) three overcoats I had relatively high hopes for, so I need to vent my frustration somewhere...

First, there was this Cucinelli coat. At $610, minus the pre-Christmas SF discount, a real steal. Or so I thought. Fit like a sack, material felt like it would sag and look baggy within hours, and no canvas in sight. The coat's quarter-lined, but the exposed seams aren't very well finished, and the pockets look ready to fall off at the sight of a wallet or set of keys. Sleeves seemed to be attached by hand, though, oddly. Back into the box it went.

Then this Jil Sander coat. Easily the best of the lot, but while Yoox claimed that it was a French size 50, which supposedly translates to a 44 US, it fit like a 40. Shoulders were OK (but I find JS shoulders usually too broad, so that's no surprise), but the armholes were so high I almost lost circulation in my hands. It's from the "tailor made" line, and seemed to be canvased, but the material is so stiff that it was hard to feel for the inner layer. Still, a nice coat -- shame it was two sizes too small...

And finally, this Boglioli. Buttons, as I had feared from the Yoox photos, were cheesy as hell (some sort of super-shiny shell material), but the cloth was very nice, with a cashmere-like hand. The details, however, weren't -- fit wasn't very good (and definitely too tight for me to wear a jacket underneath), and it felt very cheaply put together. Fake buttonhole on the lapel, thick fusing, obtrusive stitch-lines everywhere (just top-stitching, not even the fake machine-made pick-stitching Boss etc. use).

Which leads me to ask: what's the deal with Boglioli? Some here seem to think highly of the brand, but all my experiences with them have been very disappointing, and I've only tried the supposedly higher-end mainline (never even gone near the "Coat" line).

So back to the trough I went, and discovered, to my delight, that there'd been another round of price cuts. Immediately ordered the Sartorio coat I'd been hankering after -- if that one doesn't work out either I'll just quietly crawl into a corner and hibernate.
 

newinny

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I have the boglioli coat, I like it. Looks casual and I never bought it to wear over suits so fits nice. Buttons are quirky but they're growing on me.
 

sloane3

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Cucinelli is pretty overrated around here.
 

mack11211

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A lot of yoox size conversions are done with flawed models.

Why Jil would use a FR size is odd, if she did. An eu 50 is a us 40, of course, which sounds like what you got.
 

winston

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Originally Posted by sloane3
Cucinelli is pretty overrated around here.
The quality seems on a par with your average machine-made designer items which aren't held in very high regard, and yet the stuff seems to go for high-end, hand-made prices. (or thereabouts) I don't get it.
 

thekunk07

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yeah. a jil 54 doesn't even fit like a 44.

Originally Posted by mack11211
A lot of yoox size conversions are done with flawed models.

Why Jil would use a FR size is odd, if she did. An eu 50 is a us 40, of course, which sounds like what you got.
 

literasyme

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Originally Posted by thekunk07
yeah. a jil 54 doesn't even fit like a 44.
See, that I'm not sure about. I'm generally a 42L, and have a 44R Jil Sander suit that fits well, but definitely more generously than any of my 42s. The Cucinelli was definitely a bitter disappointment. As for Etro, yes. I've been eyeing a gorgeous sort of sage-and-cream houndstooth cashmere coat, but I'm not really prepared to pay Toronto prices for it... I have high hopes for the Sartorio, though.
 

yfyf

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You could also try Dries Van Noten. They seem to have a 3 buton crombie style every year that I think is pretty nice. Mine is in plum but you can get more conservative colours as well. The armholes are fairly high but I can still fit my suits under. Fits just a touch under true to size.

 

imatlas

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Originally Posted by yfyf
You could also try Dries Van Noten. They seem to have a 3 buton crombie style every year that I think is pretty nice. Mine is in plum but you can get more conservative colours as well. The armholes are fairly high but I can still fit my suits under. Fits just a touch under true to size.



That's a sharp coat. Is it distressed or is that a trick of the light?
 

ziggysnorkel

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The Yoox model is kinda too buff. He doesn't show off a lot of the suits in their best form.
 

yfyf

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Originally Posted by imatlas
That's a sharp coat. Is it distressed or is that a trick of the light?
The cloth has a hard, tweediness to it that the light brings out. It's a few years old and has been worn hard, which is why it looks a bit ratty too
 

acidboy

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just wondering, did you have the others sent back?
 

literasyme

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Very nice, yfyf -- I'm fond of Dries van Noten, though I find his sizing baffling.

acidicboy: they're still sitting in my study right now, but I was going to send them back tomorrow.
 

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