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Red Wing Gentleman's Traveler

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by imstr8trippin, May 15, 2008.

  1. headtowall

    headtowall Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 21, 2006
    Has anyone let their GT's age and develop patina?
    Yes. My 1908 GTs are not babied at all, but still look fairly new. It's going to take a while for them to look really worn in.
     
  2. Garage/Surf Rock

    Garage/Surf Rock Senior member

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    Interesting quote from sufu. I wonder to what degree this is true, and if so, why do they sell so many leather products that are oil based?
    ^This is actually one of the easier maintanence questions to come across the board. I am firmly within the Sno Seal or beeswax camp. I put it on my RW 875s and I don't think they'll ever dry out unless I were stationed in Iraq till post-apocalyptic times. It works on smooth, polished, oil-tanned or even suede (though it flattens the nap). I like Sno Seal because: -It's old-skool (1933), natural, and non-acidic. The ancient Egyptians used beeswax to protect leather. -Fats, greases and oils contain acid. Acid corrodes leather over the years, and disintegrates the stitching at the seams. -Fats, oils and greases actually dry the surface of the leather and yet soak in to the lower layers and make it spongy. You'll see, when you have to re-apply more often than you thought. Sno Seal sticks to the surface much much much longer and maintains the integrity of the leather and its consistency. -Although beeswax doesn't *soften* leather like oils do (that acid again?), it does *prevent stiffening and drying* of leather. It requires fewer coats because of longer time between drying than any other substance I've ever used. -It doesn't smell bad or funky like mink oil. -it is also one of the best substances also for water-"proofing" leather -The U.S. Boy Scouts recommend it! Great article here. http://tinyurl.com/6ek86z There's one drawback I can think of - it's very hard to apply. Always use thin coats! One thin coat was enough for my 875s for 2 years now! You can (i) warm the boots sitting on a cookie sheet in the oven (in a pre-heated oven to just over 120 degrees, let them sit for 5-10 minutes). Check every few minutes to see how the sole is doing. Don't leave the oven unattended, and don't use a microwave. Or, apply a hair dryer to the leather. Heating the leather is good because it temporarily opens the pores, so that more wax is absorbed. and/or (ii) Heat the Sno Seal to liquefy it. And then apply a THIN coat and rub way in. Good luck!
     
  3. Garage/Surf Rock

    Garage/Surf Rock Senior member

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    Also, my GTs came with a little tag about how to care for them and it recommended mink oil for conditioning. Now I'm kind of regretting I used it. I actually don't want my boots to be super soft, and I didn't realize until now that mink oil has such a softening effect, and even darkens leather. I guess this is something I had to learn the hard way. Oh well.
     
  4. erdawe

    erdawe Senior member

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    ^
    Thanks headtowall thats good to hear, I'm probably going to order a pair sooner than later.
     
  5. cmrocks

    cmrocks Senior member

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    Another question. I'm going to be using these boots primarily as riding boots. The left boot is going to be pretty marked up near the toe cap area from my shifter. Any ideas on how to keep that area from looking too beat up?
     
  6. erdawe

    erdawe Senior member

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    I'd imagine if you went with some sort of beeswax finish you could make that area thicker to help protect it. The area will likely require more mainteince than other areas of the boot.
     
  7. Garage/Surf Rock

    Garage/Surf Rock Senior member

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    I don't know if these would be good for riding. I don't ride, but I do know that these boots slip like hell if the center of the sole, where the leather is not covered by rubber, makes contact with a corner like on a stair. Also, they will scuff easily.
     
  8. cmrocks

    cmrocks Senior member

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    I've rode in my frye dress boots before with no problems and they are an entirely leather sole. I just stopped riding in them since I had to polish them so often. I figured that I would get these since I plan on letting them get more beat up looking anyways. I definately don't mind scuffs and scratches. I just want to take good care of the leather so the boots will last me for a while. I would actually prefer them to get beat up and distressed looking. I think it adds character.

    If they don't turn out to be a good riding boot, I'll just use them for normal wear. Not a huge loss since they are wicked boots regardless.
     
  9. imstr8trippin

    imstr8trippin Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    canada
    i looked at some meltonian shoe cream today in cordovan and it has a very violet looking color to it. would that be ok for the black cherrys?

    i was told by the cobbler at the store that any cream would darken leather. is that true? from what i have read on here, a cream lighter than the shoe should not darken it.
     
  10. Get Smart

    Get Smart Senior member

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    ^^ don't overthink it. the meltonian cordovan cream is fine, I use anything from Meltonian burgundy to Kiwi cordovan to kiwi black on my black cherry GTs with no ill effect. My favorite polish to use on dark burgundy/oxblood shoes (like the Black cherry) is black...gives the color a nice antiqued patina over time without ever turning the shoes "black". Just like I use navy polish on dark brown shoes
     
  11. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    it's deep enough to take off part of the top layer and expose the oak coloured leather underneath.

    this happened to my black cherry's as well, after just a few times. I really don't mind the scuffing though but I can see how one can find it annoying. This happened from regular wear.

    on the other hand, I'm not using them over the summer - should I still condition them from time to time? I don't own any other shoes/boots that I need to "take care" of so I have no experience with this. Up to this point I've only applied mink oil 2 or 3 times over 4 months of wear. too much? too little?
     
  12. obsessis

    obsessis Member

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    I don't think you need to apply conditioner 3 times over 4 months, i guess it depends how good the conditioner is / how the leather feels. you should be able to tell by touch and sight that the leather needs to be moisturized.

    I'm planning on ordering a pair of GT's and would like your guys' suggestions with sizing.

    I have a pair of the 875's that I love, 10.5 E. I could fit into the regular width, D, and stretch it out a bit to make it fit. My toes have plenty of room, aren't scrunched up in the toebox.

    Everyone says to size down since they are long but I want to make sure the width would still be OK if I ordered a 10.

    Anyone who has both boots care to comment?
    obsessis is online now Report Post \tEdit/Delete Message
     
  13. Johnny_5

    Johnny_5 Senior member

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    I don't think you need to apply conditioner 3 times over 4 months, i guess it depends how good the conditioner is / how the leather feels. you should be able to tell by touch and sight that the leather needs to be moisturized.

    I'm planning on ordering a pair of GT's and would like your guys' suggestions with sizing.

    I have a pair of the 875's that I love, 10.5 E. I could fit into the regular width, D, and stretch it out a bit to make it fit. My toes have plenty of room, aren't scrunched up in the toebox.

    Everyone says to size down since they are long but I want to make sure the width would still be OK if I ordered a 10.

    Anyone who has both boots care to comment?
    obsessis is online now Report Post \tEdit/Delete Message




    I don't know if you have clarks desert boots but I wear the same size GTs as desert boots.
     
  14. imstr8trippin

    imstr8trippin Well-Known Member

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    Mar 27, 2008
    Location:
    canada
    im a true size 11 C and bought a 10.5. they fit perfect.
     
  15. headtowall

    headtowall Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 21, 2006
    ^
    Thanks headtowall thats good to hear, I'm probably going to order a pair sooner than later.


    Maybe I spoke too soon.

    I hiked in these last week. Time for maintenance maybe?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  16. morse9443

    morse9443 Senior member

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    Apr 15, 2008
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    Boston
  17. obsessis

    obsessis Member

    Messages:
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    May 18, 2006
    Those are in need of an application of Obenaufs LP. Stat.

    http://www.obenaufs.com/product_info...94bb8f192c25bb


    obenauf's is great.

    I recently got some pecard's and some sno-seal. both of them are more like a 'gel' than a 'balm' like obenauf's. I think obenauf's would be easier to apply in a sense that you wouldn't be as likely to over-apply the conditioner. pecard's and sno-seal seem like they'd work as well but I think obenauf's is a bit more heavy-duty. they will do your boots wonders.

    Can you please take some pics afterwards? I'd like to see how well they clean up. I was surprised how great my red wing 875's looked after I had coated them.
     
  18. cmrocks

    cmrocks Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 3, 2006
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Has anyone had a chance to get some serious miles on their GTs yet? I'd like to see how they look once they've been beat in a bit.
     
  19. headtowall

    headtowall Senior member

    Messages:
    105
    Joined:
    May 21, 2006
    Has anyone had a chance to get some serious miles on their GTs yet? I'd like to see how they look once they've been beat in a bit.

    Scroll up.

    As for the Obenauf thing, I have Pecards. Will that cut it?
     
  20. Arethusa

    Arethusa Senior member

    Messages:
    5,107
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    Mar 9, 2006
    Scroll up.
    Those are not GTs.
     

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