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Recent WWChan visit in NYC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by HitMan009, Nov 10, 2004.

  1. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    They do indeed use a medium-stiff fused interlining. It isn't bad, probably as better than retail-priced RTW at that price point. But it isn't the greatest interlining you will find. I have Ascot Chang shirts with both rigid and soft interlinings, and both of those look and feel better than the stuff WW Chan uses. Considering that the Ascot Chang shirts cost 2x as much, I don't have a problem with the relative value of the WW Chan shirts.
     
  2. jester

    jester Senior member

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    184
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    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    New York, NY
    I was there on Tuesday; it was my first Chan visit. And I'm glad to find this thread, because I was intending on starting my own about it.

    I was disappointed.

    I had recently had a fitting (also my first) with Hemrajani, which I thought went extremely well--thus when I got here to SF, and saw some of the negative reports on Hemrajani's work, I was distressed. I went to that fitting, and to the Chan fitting, wearing a Savile Row suit which I fundamentally like, but which had some problems.

    The Hemrajani fitting was great. Without my saying anything, he immediately pointed out the problems with the suit I was wearing, and they were spot on. When I said things, he clearly appreciated everything I said; he understood what I was asking for; and when he did have suggestions or comments, they were respectful and tentative. His own suit was not to my taste, but it did have style.

    At Chan, I felt that no matter what I said, Patrick was not understanding the kind of suit I wanted (which was, fundamentally, a Savile Row suit). For example, my suit was three button, but with the lapels rolled to the second button. I wanted it with the same button distance, but rolled to the top button. Patrick several times told me that I should have the lapels rolled even higher--"that's what's stylish now, you should do that". Likewise, I like to show an appropriate amount of shirtsleeve, and had to insist repeatedly that he was measuring the jacket sleeves too long.

    I am concerned about what the suit is going to look like. I am not, like some people on this list, able to take a pencil and sketch the pattern my shirt yoke should be cut in, but I think I'm reasonably able to describe what I want. It should not have been as difficult as it was to get across the idea, "I want a Savile Row-styled suit," especially because I was already wearing one.

    I did not like the suit Patrick was wearing. The lapels, in particular, were excessively high and small. The lapel buttonhole was far too small, even given his stature.

    Oh fabric: from Hemrajani (the suit hasn't arrived yet--from Chan I asked to have a second fitting, which annoyingly will delay things by five months, and I really do need to get more suits and am not looking forward to waiting that long to make any additional decision), I got a LP super 120s in navy with a blue windowpane. From Chan, I got a--actually, I didn't know the name of the mill, it was some initials--super 130s with a touch of cashmere, in a charcoal glen plaid with a blue overpane.
     
  3. jasonpraxis

    jasonpraxis Well-Known Member

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    Sep 11, 2004
    Location:
    Brooklyn, NY
    I was in on Tuesday midafternoon. My first experience with Chan, which I decided on based in part on what I've read on Styleforum and in part on a recommendation from an uncle, who has been a customer for twenty-plus years. I was both impressed at the speed with which Patrick took me through the process, and a bit dismayed because of the speed. (A gentleman arrived while I was being measured, and I think Patrick may have wanted to attend to him quickly.) Nevertheless, I enjoyed the experience, and I look forward to taking delivery of my suit in January.

    For the record, I chose a 130s navy herringbone, 3 button, 2 vent with a burgundy lining. Decided against a ticket pocket in the ascending elevator after walking through a lobby full of too-trendy young professionals. I'm still unemployed, so this should work overtime as an interview suit.
     
  4. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    My fitting was at 8:30 in the morning but I had to stop by Patrick's suite around 12:15 again because I forgot my gloves when I left earlier.

    dan
     
  5. keys

    keys Senior member

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    Jun 26, 2004
    Interesting comparison re: your Hemrajani vs. Chan fitting. How do Joe's prices compare to Chan? Does he also offer a fabric special on his tour as Chan does?

    V-
     
  6. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    I cannot recommend Hemrajani highly enough. Â Chan's delivery times keep getting longer and longer. Â [​IMG]
     
  7. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

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    I think Patrick was a bit nervous this being this first time out and about. I don't know if that is correct but it is my assumption. I think most of the people attending WWChan's overseas tours have only known Raymond. In terms of comparing the two, I think Patrick maybe more fashion forward and not as obliged as Raymond to stay within timeless standards. I believe Patrick is actually also the cutter, so in the long run, dealing with him in a sense means cutting out the middleman. I think this board is also making them extremely busy... to the detrements of all due to the long waits... My suit will be in my Mid-January. [​IMG] I am curious, what styles did all of you ask for this time? For me, my last fitting, I asked for a very english cut while this time, I asked more for a Brioni-type cut. I hope Patrick understood that. GO Power Suits.....
     
  8. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    In my dealings with Raymond, I found that he would suggest things I didn't want (in areas like sleeve length, which he suggested longer and I wanted shorter), but when I told him "no, this is what I want" he would always agree to do it my way. If Patrick hasn't yet learned the "customer is always right" rule, I'm sure it will only take a couple of sessions with OCD Forumistas to knock him back a pace or two. I too am quite curious to see what Raymond is up to now. Based on posts here, it seems as if he has at least a little customer goodwill--I wonder if he will resurface in the US market at some point.
     
  9. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    I was going to ask for a Brioni type shoulder as well in my suit, I guess we'll see what happens.
     
  10. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    when you going up warren? my appt is 6:30 on friday. i'm probably only going to do shirts...
     
  11. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Would you let us know how that turns out?  I've yet to hear anything about Chan's ability to do other silhouettes.

    dan
     
  12. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    I'm tentatively planning to go on Friday at 8:30 AM but I may have to meet up with them in SF instead because I have a meeting in LV early Friday afternoon and with the way traffic has been lately I may just not chance it and meet with them Monday as I will be in the bay area early that week.
     
  13. tteplitzmd

    tteplitzmd Active Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 27, 2004
    I see Chan (or should I say Patrick) in Washington, DC, tomorrow. I believe that with WW Chan it is really best to begin in HK and have proper fittings, etc. This has worked well for me for many years with subsequent US visits. I get a very specific three button jacket, rolled to the just below the top button----Madison Avenue Ivy League custom tailors and infomercially oriented Leonard Logsdail (in his Sackville Street life) could not do it as I wished (Logsdail even put in darts against my wishes---it became a tax deduction and a waste of 3.5 yards of H Lesser worsted). I must say that Chan has successfully replicated my details without only a minor mistake or two, easily and coureously remedied. I think it is a bit risky to do a first purchase from the States.
     
  14. tteplitzmd

    tteplitzmd Active Member

    Messages:
    31
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2004
    I see Chan (or should I say Patrick) in Washington, DC, tomorrow. I believe that with WW Chan it is really best to begin in HK and have proper fittings, etc. This has worked well for me for many years with subsequent US visits. I get a very specific three button jacket, rolled to the just below the top button----Madison Avenue Ivy League custom tailors and infomercially oriented Leonard Logsdail (in his Sackville Street life) could not do it as I wished (Logsdail even put in darts against my wishes---it became a tax deduction and a waste of 3.5 yards of H Lesser worsted). I must say that Chan has successfully replicated my details without only a minor mistake or two, easily and courteously remedied. I think it is a bit risky to do a first purchase from the States.
     

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