Recent non-Sartorialist Looks

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by aj_del, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. kungapa

    kungapa Senior member

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    It is treated cotton to make it waterproof. Most (good) trench coats are this material including the original trench coat invented by Thomas Burberry.

    The original material was patented as gabardine in 1888 using wool, but most trench coats today are cotton.


    Do you know how it is treated, more specifically? What is the base weave used? Twill?
     


  2. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    Thanks Trini

    Some vintage GQ covers:

    60's


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     


  3. --Jonas--

    --Jonas-- Senior member

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    I love how all of the 70's ones look like Tom Ford suits. Awesome.

    +1 exactly my thought
     


  4. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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    Nice covers.

    And a good reminder that for all the hate heaped on 70s style, it was still a time when far more men wore and cared about tailored clothes than do today.

    It's hard to see how the high-end cachet of Tom Ford, the market saturation of skinny/slim looks, and a general hipsteriziation of mass-market tastes isn't portending a full-blooded return to 70s tailoring in coming years. If so, it'll be fun to watch here, as it'll be the first major style evolution since the emergence of online clobber geekdom, and the first significant challenge to the smug "fashion is fleeting, but style is forever" attitude we tend to cop.
     


  5. ndw

    ndw Senior member

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    Some vintage GQ covers:

    60's

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Awesome shit. I want this last sportcoat
     


  6. jamaican

    jamaican Senior member

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    I love how all of the 70's ones look like Tom Ford suits. Awesome.

    I love how Tom Ford suits look like the 70s ones!

    I really like that 1960s stuff. J
     


  7. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My question is....what happened?
     


  8. geoffmartin17

    geoffmartin17 Senior member

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  9. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    That girl fourth from the bottom is fantastic

    She looks like Daria.
     


  10. EnglishLapel

    EnglishLapel Senior member

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    Head to toe, SF approved

    [​IMG]


    How on earth is this SF approved? Wearing waistcoats without sports coats or suit coats is NOT approved. Absurd hair is NOT approved. Some individual parts may be SF approved but the overall package is clearly not.
     


  11. EnglishLapel

    EnglishLapel Senior member

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    Some of those 60's covers are sweet.
     


  12. celery

    celery Senior member

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    My question is....what happened?

    Feminism, media and capitalism.


    No, I'm not a chauvanist nor do I want women subservient to men, but the labeling and mass market sterotyping of men led to gender defining extremism. The feminists went on and on (and still do) about women being portrayed soley as sex objects. When women began gaining certain levels of equality, they wanted to show men in a certain negative light. "Lazy, sloppy, rude, and demeaning."

    Perhaps men who mistreated women were like that (and I'm not saying that all men were super awesome back then), but the idea of the "macho" guy's guy became a sterotype.

    From there the media played off of that as they love sterotypes because it sells. And art imitates life which imitates art ad inifnitum (aka hyper-reality - see Baudrillard). So men saw themselves as frouffy for caring about clothes and that "real men" should be "lazy, sloppy, rude and demeaning."

    See just about any modern beer commercial. See also most sitcoms (King of Queens, Friends, Everybody Loves Raymond, Two and a Half Men etc). The man doesn't take out the trash, he dresses like crap and hates to go shopping which the woman has to force him to participate in, oooo how manly!

    And we can't forget capitalism. Businesses want to make money, lots of it. So as new methods become available which allow a company to produce more product at a faster rate they take the money and run. Along with this comes a human desire for convenience, who's going to wait weeks or months for their tailor to finish their suit when they can just pick one up at a store?

    In any case, why make things slowly by hand by a trained artisan when you can make them quickly in standard sizes, utilizing sweatshop labor and make the price whatever you want as long as you can market it better than another company?
     


  13. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Thanks Trini



    [​IMG]


    He is a lifetime Cifonelli customer...

    I love his suits.
     


  14. niidawg3

    niidawg3 Senior member

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    Some vintage GQ covers:

    60's

    70s


    Great post Trini ... except where are all the men of color? ... lol

    [​IMG]

    Cotton?

    Cotton

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Man are you being sarcastic, or are you really still that clueless after more than a year here? [​IMG]

    Aj_Del always baffles me with that "SF Approved" comment. I always took it to be him being sarcastic.

    ...

    One of the best posts i've read on SF, ever.
     


  15. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    My question is....what happened?


    Rubinacci had no cuddly teddy bears as clients back then.
     


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