Recent non-Sartorialist Looks

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by aj_del, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

    Messages:
    26,133
    Likes Received:
    1,626
    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2006
    Location:
    FOLKESTONE
    You've rekindled a recent conversation I had the other day with a guy that writes about clothing and lives in London.

    I think one of the issues I have with Savile Row is that the cutters essentially operate in a free agent system. Huntsman cutter was at Nortons who was at Henry Poole, etc. Dege's cutter was at Gieves who was at KFS, and so on. It seems to me the point of getting a Savile Row suit at a specific house is to get that house style. Having a rotating cutter every year or three seems the antithesis of the reason to get a specific house style in the first place.

    It dilutes the experience.


    You're actually making a very valid point here....

    Luckily Norton and Poole do not have a strong signature look such as Huntsman and Anderson...

    What I like with Cifonelli or Rubinacci ,the cutters have been trained to cut according to the house's tailoring identiity...

    It is running in their DNA...
     
  2. Poindexter

    Poindexter Senior member

    Messages:
    422
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2010
    Its the Fall winter collection from Sartoria Partenopea

    I've never seen jackets with so much waist suppression unbuttoned! Can they even be buttoned, if you're not an ant?

    Thx for the pointer, though.

    Aloha,

    Poinz
     
  3. Blackfyre

    Blackfyre Senior member

    Messages:
    2,421
    Likes Received:
    72
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2010
    [​IMG]

    This is Socal in 20 yrs
    yall slipping
     
  4. EZETHATSME

    EZETHATSME Senior member

    Messages:
    780
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2009
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    This is Socal,
    yall slipping


    Fixed that for ya.

    EZ
     
  5. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

    Messages:
    26,133
    Likes Received:
    1,626
    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2006
    Location:
    FOLKESTONE
    [​IMG]

    Too many golden showers????[​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  6. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

    Messages:
    6,964
    Likes Received:
    126
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
  7. jamaican

    jamaican Senior member

    Messages:
    283
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Location:
    London
    You've rekindled a recent conversation I had the other day with a guy that writes about clothing and lives in London.

    I think one of the issues I have with Savile Row is that the cutters essentially operate in a free agent system. Huntsman cutter was at Nortons who was at Henry Poole, etc. Dege's cutter was at Gieves who was at KFS, and so on. It seems to me the point of getting a Savile Row suit at a specific house is to get that house style. Having a rotating cutter every year or three seems the antithesis of the reason to get a specific house style in the first place.

    It dilutes the experience.


    ... maybe one could try Richard Anderson... as long as you insist that he cuts your pattern and each garment and you see him everytime you go, that should get around that problem.

    However, there is then the question of the inflence of the coat-maker on the overall product. The coat-maker can have a great influence (for better or worse) on the garment. The coat-maker is often even farther removed from the customers' eyes than the cutter and it can sometimes be, I understand, difficult to ensure that one maintains the same combination of cutter and coat maker... what if the coat-maker leaves the particular establishment, is on contract work anyway and is otherwise busy/has scheduling problems etc. (I concentrate on coat-maker as, although the same could be said for trouser-maker, I suspect that generally speaking the biggest bang for the buck in the suit is in the jacket. The jacket is more difficult to get "right" than the trousers) J
     
  8. mickey711

    mickey711 Senior member

    Messages:
    703
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    305
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    don't like this at all, I think this line will be shuttered before it gets off the ground.

    Unlikely - Barneys told me its their fastest selling line of the year.
     
  10. mickey711

    mickey711 Senior member

    Messages:
    703
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    ^That's quite impressive considering the prices E. Tautz clothing goes for. The DB looks better in the runway pics: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  11. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

    Messages:
    6,964
    Likes Received:
    126
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
  12. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,689
    Likes Received:
    3,334
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    Unlikely - Barneys told me its their fastest selling line of the year.

    The purple dinosaur? Take what retailers tell you with a grain of salt.

    I give it 2 years, he is playing in a field where he does not know the terrain.
     
  13. geoffmartin17

    geoffmartin17 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,630
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    May 16, 2009
    Location:
    vancouver/seattle
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,397
    Likes Received:
    8,780
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    funny thing is, the monocle is not the biggest thing on his eye (what a huge pimple!)

    I'm sure that is a mole. I think he looks like a tool wearing a costume.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by