Recent commissions (local HK tailor)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by naturlaut, Nov 16, 2004.

  1. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    Make: Local tailor from Hong Kong, English-styled, traditionally trained Fabric: Bower & Roebuck (Scabal) Mink + Cashmere, lightweight 250g [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] Fit: medium-to-high armhole, not perfect for my job, but it is meant to be worn in fall/winter when I would sometimes wear a thin sweater inside.  Having an armhole that's not cut high enough would also affect the sleeves --- it retracts a bit when arm is raised.  In this aspect, the Neapolitan tailors clearly do a  better job.  The shoulder pads are thin and light (the usual cotton felt and canvass blend) and it drapes well.  The button is set 1 1/4" inch below my rib cage.  Waist definitely visible, but not too pronounced, again for the purpose of having sweaters inside.  Overall, the body feels very good, and the shoulders are made perfectly well-adjusted to my deformed body.  The arm/sleeves need a bit work: I need to widen the sleeves 1/8", it feels a little snug when I bend my arm.  Details:  The coat is almost entirely hand made.  It's hard to photograph the pick stitching (I am dumb with my camera).  Pick stitching is discreet, but visible, and it's everywhere from the darts to the sleeves to the roll to the back. The pad stitching is quite well done, and the lapel roll is full of life.  I haven't move about excessively in this coat yet, and it has yet to mould to my body.  Rating: *** Value: *****
     


  2. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Mink?

    Looks very nice, naturlaut. Is the last photo of the pick stitching, or what are we looking at there?
     


  3. Huntsman

    Huntsman Senior member

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    Sweet.

    I am a big fan of the occasional set of peak lapels on SB jackets.  The subtlety of the pic-stitching, is great, too -- it's a detail I enjoy but can look a little overdone if it is too blatant.

    And, to second j, mink? How's the hand?

    Regards,
    Huntsman
     


  4. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    There is only very little bit of mink blended into the cashmere. I think it is used to lighten up the weight of the fabric. It drapes well, but exceeding slippery, but still soft and buttery.

    The last photo is one of the button. I wanted to show you how it is raised. I think it is similar to the buttons of Oxxford.

    I welcome all comments and criticism. Please keep them coming.
     


  5. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Wow, I've never heard of that. Sounds nice.

    You mean the shank? Isn't that normal, or am I missing another detail? That's the way I do them, unless there's something special I am not seeing.

    BTW, did everyone but me know that you can use Alt-Q to quote, Alt-I for italics, Alt-B for bold, etc.? I just noticed that.
     


  6. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    Yes, everyone does a raised shank, though not everyone does it the same way. Just want to show a picture of mine, that's all.

    One of these days, we should do a side-by-side comparison of everything.
     


  7. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Naturlaut, very nice looking coat. Although it would be better for us to see it on you to gauge the fit [​IMG] . I do see the extensive handwork... also at sleeve seam. I like the button shank, sturdy.
     


  8. JDMcDaniel

    JDMcDaniel Well-Known Member

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    Looks wonderful. Your experience seems proof that, when it comes to bespoke, the customer's knowledge level and ability to communicate his or her wants largely dictates the quality of the finished product.

    Care to:
    1. Disclose the maker/price;
    2. Compare the jacket to the better marketed HK bespoke companies (chan, a man, baroman)?
     


  9. 1Dgaf

    1Dgaf Senior member

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    Is mink a type of material, or does it have mink fur in the suit?
     


  10. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

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    naturlaut,

    Did you specifically ask for the rounded peak? I think closer pics of the lining and armholes would be great. A picture of the it being worn would absolutely show the cut of the suit. From the pics, it looks like a very good everyday suit
    to wear to and from.
    At your discretion, can you mention the price and/or maker as someone has asked earlier..

    Great Suit and pics.

    -HitMan009
     


  11. tricket

    tricket Well-Known Member

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    Could you tell the shop name, the address and the price you paid?
     


  12. paul

    paul Active Member

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    Could you provide the shop name, address (website if appropriate) and price point paid for blazer?
     


  13. Ed355

    Ed355 Senior member

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    (j @ 16 Nov. 2004, 10:21) You mean the shank? Isn't that normal, or am I missing another detail? That's the way I do them, unless there's something special I am not seeing. .
    Yes, everyone does a raised shank, though not everyone does it the same way. Â Just want to show a picture of mine, that's all. One of these days, we should do a side-by-side comparison of everything.
    Very nice. Looks like the button holes are handmade too, which is quite rare in Hong Kong. I believe WW Chan and Ah Man Hing Son make them by machine and cut the holes open.
     


  14. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, it's mink hair (without the leather of course) that gets spun into the yarn; as pelts it will make a fur coat. Some luxury fabrics have a component of mink.

    Whether it is male or female mink (male makes superior fur coats), I wouldn't know.
     


  15. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great coat. I really like the peak lapels, especially the flower button hole which slants in synch with the peak. Also, nice burgundy lining.
     


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