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Ready to Wear Modified Last

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Bic Pentameter, Apr 22, 2005.

  1. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    In search of a well-fitting higher end RTW shoe, Â I attended an Edward Green "order" show (not to be confused with the bespoke trunk show) and spoke with a fitter in November 2004. The fitter measured my foot, and said that I was a UK 6.5E. Â This surprised me greatly, because the UK 8E he had me slip on was much too tight across the instep. Â I thought it was just too narrow. The fitter noted that I have a "tall" foot, and theorized that I probably choose shoes that are too big, mistaking their roominess in height for roominess in width. Â He recommended that I order a 7.5E, and offered to modify the stock last by building up the top of the last by 3/16" of an inch. Â I ordered the Ladbroke, size 7.5E, 888 last, in dark oak. The shoes came last week. Â I tried them on in the store, but am still trying to work up the courage to wear them outside. Â The fit appeared good. I have posted several pictures below. The pair: [​IMG] The pair: [​IMG] The Ladbroke from the front: [​IMG] The Ladbroke from the side, showing the increased height in the toe box: [​IMG] Another side shot: [​IMG] An angled shot of the toe: [​IMG] The Ladbroke (888 last size 7.5E, modified last) on top compared with a Green captoe (888 last, size 8 E, stock last): [​IMG] The Ladbroke next to the captoe: [​IMG] The Ladbroke next to the captoe: [​IMG] The Ladbroke next to the captoe: [​IMG] If I have one complaint, it would be a small scar in the leather on the heel counter. I have heard reference to fat wrinkles and scars from one calf goring another. Â I don't know whether either of these caused the horizontal scar in the leather: [​IMG] Shot of inside window and heel scar: [​IMG] Bic
     


  2. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Very interesting on how they could modify the last for you. Funny how he said you were a 6.5 but suggested a 7.5 though... I'm glad they fit well.
     


  3. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Nice shoes Bic. Have you worn them yet? [​IMG] The modified last certainly looks taller than the standard 888, however, it still looks quite nice and elegant in my opinion. From the top, you really can't tell the difference.
     


  4. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    Thanks T4phage:

    I tried the shoes on in the store, but have not worn them for real yet.

    The black cap toe in the picture pinches the tops of my feet.  I believe that the modified last should resolve that painful problem.

    Do you think the built up toe is "elegant nose," or "ice breaker beak?"

    Bic
     


  5. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Oh, the nose is definitely still elegant even though it is has been built up. No icebreaker that.. [​IMG]
     


  6. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    I think that he said I was a 6.5 in length, but had the width of a 7....(Judging by the size I seem to gravitate toward, I have the foot height of an 8.5)

    Bic
     


  7. Hartmann

    Hartmann Senior member

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    Phenomenal. The colour is just right too. I dare say you'll be enjoying them for some time.
     


  8. Alter

    Alter Senior member

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    Bic,

    The shoes are wonderful. From the pictures, they certainly don't seem to have lost any of the aesthetic characteristics. And I agree, the colour is fantastic.

    Did you attend the EG show somewhere in Japan? If so, could you post the details of where and how you found out about it. (I'm in Kansai but there may be a similar event here; or I could take the shinkansen up to Tokyo).
     


  9. guitone

    guitone Well-Known Member

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    They look great...all shoes should offer roominess in the toes, that is sure as heck what I need on many styles that I try. I just am curious, are these totally custom or are these RTW, I am not clear, and if RTW how do they modify them?

    Thank you
     


  10. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    They are not totally custom.  My understanding is that at the factory, they affixed a 3/16" piece of leather to the top of the RTW last (the wooden form that the leather is built up around to make the shoe) to make it taller.  The leather that was built up around this modified last formed a shoe that was 3/16" taller than its cousins that would have been made on the unmodified RTW last.

    The result is not a bespoke shoe, but a RTW shoe that has been modified to a degree to accomodate my feet.

    Bic
     


  11. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    Very nice shoes. Without the side by side pics it's hard to tell they're modified.
     


  12. redtree00

    redtree00 Senior member

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    Bic,

    They are beautiful shoes, very elegant.
    How much were the shoes ?
    Was there an additional charge for this modification ?
    Thanx,
     


  13. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    Thanks redtree.

    There was no additional charge for this modification, but I suppose that Green could charge depending on how easy the modification is.

    I ordered them through at the pattern order show at a (very expensive) department store in Japan. The department store charged me Japanese prices for stock Greens, an ordering fee, and 5% Japanese sales tax.

    I am sure that they would have been cheaper had I ordered through a US retailer, or from Green directly.

    Bic
     


  14. Keith T

    Keith T TWAT Master.

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    Just want to say that those shoes are friggin' beautiful. They almost made me want to cuss. Love the color, love them period.
     


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