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Ratio Clothing - Custom Shirts - Official Affiliate Thread

FlyingHorker

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Been rather satisfied with my OCBD I ordered, everything unlined.

I've read about unlined OCBDs not living up to most people's expectations vs. a lined and unfused collar, but I dig this one. Higher collar band height is also appreciated, which might help.

Due to the oxford cloth, the roll is not an uncontrollable mess, it just feels right in a casual tactile sense, especially the unlined cuffs.

I mostly buy Proper Cloth, but I think the roll is overall better on this one. The collars on the Ivy BD for PC tend to collapse down, despite having a lining.

The Ratio collar stays up all day, no collapsing.

The placket is now back to the wider 1.5" width.
 

tilesomoole

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The Ratio collar stays up all day, no collapsing.

The placket is now back to the wider 1.5" width.
This is good to know. I had no dice with proper cloth, so I thought i'd try Ratio. I like a wider placket.
 

FlyingHorker

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This is good to know. I had no dice with proper cloth, so I thought i'd try Ratio. I like a wider placket.
I think they both have the standard wide placket options now.

I'd say the unlined OCBD works best with streetwear and denim type fits, it's definitely rumply all around.
 

tilesomoole

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I'd say the unlined OCBD works best with streetwear and denim type fits, it's definitely rumply all around.
I see. I ordered their brushed oxford (like a mid-weight flannel) with the fitzgerald collar, and a 'monochrome campus oxford' with a regular button down collar. We'll see how they go. I needed a couple of heavier oxfords. Well....ok......"needed" may be a bit of a stretch......
 

db123456

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Does anyone have suggestions on porting over sizing info from Proper Cloth? Are there any standard adjustments you'd recommend, or can I more or less use the same sizing (at least as a starting point)?

I'd written Ratio off because of the narrow-placket issue, but now I'm thinking I might give them a shot.
 

RatioClothing

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Does anyone have suggestions on porting over sizing info from Proper Cloth? Are there any standard adjustments you'd recommend, or can I more or less use the same sizing (at least as a starting point)?

I'd written Ratio off because of the narrow-placket issue, but now I'm thinking I might give them a shot.
We'd love to have you! Your Proper Cloth measurements should mostly port over exactly. I'd maybe consider bumping up the chest measurement 1/2" since I think they measure that a little lower than we do, but otherwise the measurement points are similar. And, you'll have a free remake should you need any tweaks.

One note of clarification on the wider placket: we offer both wide and narrow options for *most* of our shirts, but fabrics that are part of the Made-in-the-USA group still have the narrower placket. We've been working to persuade the US factory to offer both options and restore the wider option as the default. I'll point them to these latest comments!
 

StanleyVanBuren

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Ok as a customer of both, Proper Cloth measurements do not port over exactly, so watch out. These are the differences I've discovered:

PC adds 0.5 to collar and all body measurements (chest, waist, hip)
PC yoke is cut differently so the widest point is an inch wider than where it's measured (at the base). Ratio also measures yoke at the base, but the widest point is only about a quarter of an inch wider.

So as an example, if your PC measurements are:
Collar: 14.5
Chest: 19.5
Waist: 17.5
Hip: 18.5
Yoke: 16.0

Your Ratio measurements to get roughly the same fit should be:
Collar: 15.0
Chest: 20.0
Waist: 18.0
Hip: 19.0
Yoke: 16.75

I personally ended up with the biggest difference in yoke measurement between PC and Ratio. Again it's a little hard to explain but it's the angle of the seam along the sleeves that makes the difference here. You will want to for sure go wider on this measurement with Ratio than with PC by at least half an inch. I went a full inch wider in my case on the alteration on my first shirt.
 

db123456

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We'd love to have you! Your Proper Cloth measurements should mostly port over exactly. I'd maybe consider bumping up the chest measurement 1/2" since I think they measure that a little lower than we do, but otherwise the measurement points are similar. And, you'll have a free remake should you need any tweaks.

One note of clarification on the wider placket: we offer both wide and narrow options for *most* of our shirts, but fabrics that are part of the Made-in-the-USA group still have the narrower placket. We've been working to persuade the US factory to offer both options and restore the wider option as the default. I'll point them to these latest comments!
Thanks for the response on this.

Can I also ask for any additional detail you can offer on the "light fused" collar/placket option? It's not really described in the interface, and I didn't see any discussion in this thread. Is there anything widely available that it might be comparable to?

I ask because my favorite oxford shirt is one I bought through the Permanent Style online shop, which actually uses a lightweight fused construction.
 

RatioClothing

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Thanks for the response on this.

Can I also ask for any additional detail you can offer on the "light fused" collar/placket option? It's not really described in the interface, and I didn't see any discussion in this thread. Is there anything widely available that it might be comparable to?

I ask because my favorite oxford shirt is one I bought through the Permanent Style online shop, which actually uses a lightweight fused construction.
Sure, so if you have an oxford that you're sure has a fused construction, that's probably a reasonable comparison. Since oxford is a heavier fabric, typically if a brand is going to use a fusible, they'll opt for a lighter weight with an oxford.

This may be explaining something you already know, but a fusible is just going to appear more crisp than an unfused construction. You won't get little bit of puckering or "rumpling" that you get in a non-fused style. The lighter fused is simply a thinner version. So, it will appear crisp but it won't feel nearly as stiff as a typical fusible. If you've ever owned a Brooks Brothers dress shirt with a button-down collar, those generally use a light fused lining so that the collar can still roll a bit.

Does that help? Kind of hard to explain--you just sort of need to feel one!
 

RatioClothing

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Ok as a customer of both, Proper Cloth measurements do not port over exactly, so watch out. These are the differences I've discovered:

PC adds 0.5 to collar and all body measurements (chest, waist, hip)
PC yoke is cut differently so the widest point is an inch wider than where it's measured (at the base). Ratio also measures yoke at the base, but the widest point is only about a quarter of an inch wider.

So as an example, if your PC measurements are:
Collar: 14.5
Chest: 19.5
Waist: 17.5
Hip: 18.5
Yoke: 16.0

Your Ratio measurements to get roughly the same fit should be:
Collar: 15.0
Chest: 20.0
Waist: 18.0
Hip: 19.0
Yoke: 16.75

I personally ended up with the biggest difference in yoke measurement between PC and Ratio. Again it's a little hard to explain but it's the angle of the seam along the sleeves that makes the difference here. You will want to for sure go wider on this measurement with Ratio than with PC by at least half an inch. I went a full inch wider in my case on the alteration on my first shirt.
This is really helpful feedback, and your personal experience is probably good for others to look at. We don't personally see a ton of their shirts, so our measurements are anecdotal, but if anything they do seem to add more base shrinkage allowance than us. I think rounding up 1/4" or 1/2" is a safe bet.

I'll have to take a fresh look at the shoulder to see what you mean, but the sleeve fit/armhole angle setting we both offer could be a factor there as well.
 

db123456

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Kind of hard to explain--you just sort of need to feel one!
Thanks again for the response. I think you're right -- at the end of the day you just have to try it out, right?

Anyway, I'm intrigued that you have the lighter fusing as sort of an intermediate option and am probably inclined to give it a shot -- even if it conflicts with the received wisdom that a softer unfused collar is better for an oxford shirt.
 

comrade

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Just checked out the website. On OCBDs collar points look short.
Overall the shirts look cheap. I personally do not need MTM because
I fit most 16.5 regular( full) cut RTWs. For reference, I wear H&K, Finamore,
etc.
 

tilesomoole

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Just checked out the website. ..........Overall the shirts look cheap.
The Fitzgerald collar points are 3.5" - do you normally go longer than that on your OCBDs? I'm intrigued to see what I get. To me, the fabric looks great on the ones I chose.

Most of the people who have bought and worn a Ratio shirt have reported good quality.


I'll add that I've dialed in the fit of my shirts with several MTM companies, thus, I pretty much know what my ideal shirt measurements are (within the limits of differing block patterns of course.) I've not had success with the 'house patterns' and usually have had to give the company the measurements I wanted.

Not so with Ratio - I did their questionnaire and the 'blueprint' was very close on all my basic measurements. That was unexpected, and promising. Will this be the first time I've received a perfect fit on the first try?

We'll see here in a couple of weeks.
 

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