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Rate my collar, please . . .

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by uluvbs, Dec 3, 2012.

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  1. uluvbs

    uluvbs Senior member

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    Hi, all.

    I'm having new shirts made (from the same tailor) and am not too thrilled with my current collar.

    It's 1.875" in the back, 3" points, and about 100 degrees spread. Any suggestions on how I can improve the look?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I'm wondering if I should either raise the front collar band height or increase the amount of spread? Any suggestions?

    Thank you.
     


  2. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Hi There,

    I'd personally raise the collar just a little, increase the spread a bit more and lengthen the points to around 3.5 inches.

    Cheers,
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    add pictures of the shirt but wearing a tie and with a jacket on to get accurate feedback. If this is meant to wear with a tie and jacket that's the best way to get feedback. Random pics of a collar out of that context isn't the best approach.
     


  4. Twotone

    Twotone Senior member

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    Raise the collar -- this shirt makes your neck look too tall.
     


  5. uluvbs

    uluvbs Senior member

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    Hi, all.

    When you say raise the collar, do you mean the collar height in back, in front, or both?

    The collar height in back is 1 7/8, but I guess I could go to 2"? I'm thinking my main issue is the downward slope of the collar (from back to front) and that the front collar band is too low?

    Thank you.
     


  6. hrb

    hrb Senior member

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    The front, which will then require a lengthening of the points. As despos already suggested, It would really help to throw on a tie and jacket. The collar will sit differently with a tie cinched around your neck and both the appropriate measure and spread of the points will vary depending on the gorge, lapel, and lapel widths of the jackets you wear.
     


  7. uluvbs

    uluvbs Senior member

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    Self-portraits, so not the greatest:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012


  8. hrb

    hrb Senior member

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    I would, personally, bring that up about 1/2" or so in the front and adjust the points accordingly to be sure they're being covered by the jacket lapels. The spread is purely a personal taste thing, so whatever you prefer there. (I also have a long neck and find the double buttons help quite a bit). Good luck!
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012


  9. uluvbs

    uluvbs Senior member

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    Thank you, HRB.

    -1- I assume for each increase in front collar band height, i have to do an equal increase in the point size?

    -2- Also, would raising the collar height possibly mean I would need a smaller neck size? I'm thinking raising it a half-inch (because of the angle and other factors) would mean I would require slightly less circumference in the neck/collar?

    Thank you.
     


  10. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you have a long neck and seriously sloping shoulder.
    not much you can do except go for a smaller neck circumference.
    this will keep the collar from dropping down.
    what is the height of the front band? and has this shirt been laundered.

    the right shoulder is a mess.
     


  11. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    Back On Here


  12. Dmbig

    Dmbig Member

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    The right shoulder is fine...he's holding up the camera with his right, hence the wrinkles. Agree with hrb ^^^
     


  13. uluvbs

    uluvbs Senior member

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    The right shoulder is a mess because I was holding up the camera, hence all that fabric bunching up. (thank you, dmbig)

    I do have sloping shoulders, and perhaps that is part of the problem?

    The shirt has been laundered a few times. Front collar band height is 1 1/4".
     


  14. hrb

    hrb Senior member

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    1. Simply speaking, yes though the exact calculation depends on your degree of spread and distance from lapel. Hence, why having a jacket on hand is important.. I imagine, if you're doing a semi-spread it will be in the neighbourhood of 3.5" for points and between 1.75-2.25 (depending on your measurement) at the nape of the neck, with the same number again for the band, based on a 2 button neck closure.

    2. I, personally, think, as someone else mentioned, that shirt looks too big for you wrt neck measurement and would probably go down .5 to 1 inch. A tighter collar might not be as 'airy' but it does create the aesthetic most people are after. It also allows for a tighter knot, without wrinkling the collar, which helps the tie to 'stand up' rather droop. And again, I would highly recommend a two button closure for us long of neck (attached a picture, forgive the winkles, it just came out of the wash).[​IMG]]




     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012


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