1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 10: A full set of Aesop's Fables pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing

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    The 10th auction of the year is for a full set of Aesop's Fable's pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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Raphael

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NewYorkBuck, Mar 8, 2005.

  1. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

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    RJ, no plans to visit Mahon. I really have no idea if the A&S look makes sense for me. I have never seen an A&S suit in person so I figure that I will check out Hitchcock and Dubois. they are less expensive than the other Savile row tailors, including C&M.

    Marc, thanks for the review of N&L shirts. do you remember if sean O'Flynn measured you or Michael Blackwell. O'Flynn is the cutter and I imagine one would have better success with him vs. Blackwell. Would be interested in trying out Budd one day for custom shorts. Budd does not travel to the US. have you ever thought of trying Whittaker of Dege &Skinner for shirts? Thanks again.
     


  2. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    Bry, yes it was Sean who measured me. Supposedly, it is a true bespoke shirt, made from an individual pattern, although I now see with dramatic clarity that a try-on (fitting) has been a critical missing piece to the puzzle in my previous shirtmaking experiences. It requires some added time, and expense, but the results are worth it for me.

    Grayson
     


  3. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    Bry, Whittaker adheres to a strict policy of a 6-shirt minimum, even for first orders...Based on previous experiences, and this is not to disparage Dege or Whittaker, with whom I have no experience, but "Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice, shame on ME". To borrow from Roger Daltrey, I won't get fooled again. From now on, my shirts are only made in Rome.
    Grayson
     


  4. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    Incidentally, rumor has it that Mimmo Siviglia and his lovely daughter, Francesca, might be coming to the States to visit with Raphael and clients.

    Grayson
     


  5. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    One can find quite a lively equestrian community in the "far reaches" of Westchester County, NY (e.g.,North Salem), Dutchess County (e.g., Pawling), New Jersey (e.g., Bedminster), and parts of Long Island and Connecticut. As an animal lover, I only shoot skeet, at a private club in the Catskill Mtn. vicinity. My philosophy is that if one wants to hunt deer, one should strap on a pair of antlers and go after them on an equal playing field [​IMG] Grayson
     


  6. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

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    Marc, please keep up apprised of when and if Mimmo and his daughter will be coming to the States.

    regarding Raphael, has he raised his prices in the past year? I believe he quotes me around $3850 for a 2 piece suit made from Lesser's cloth. Could have sworn his average price was around $3000. I need to dig up the Kai's thread on Raphael. I think Kai mentioned he paid around $3K for a 3 piece.

    Incidentally, Rangoon is part of the J&J Minnis line.
     


  7. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    Bry, Raph raised his prices several months ago, which was the first increase in like 10 years, so I can't fault him for what I feel is still a reasonably-priced product (He actually dusted off old records for me showing the same prices back then). I believe the weakened dollar has also increased the cost of English cloth. See if you can "negotiate".
    Grayson
     


  8. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

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    Marc, I think I will try to negotiate. Right now, I cannot psychologically get past the $3000 barrier for a suit. I had a hard enough time breaking $2000. I am still hoping that the London based visiting tailor that likes to host frat parties in suites of Upper East Side hotels can come through for me finally. We'll see.
     


  9. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    Bry, you don't have to tell me about psychological barriers. I have a similar barrier, but I just block it out of my mind because I know what I want but have not been able to get it at lower prices. Goodness knows I've tried. So, I pay the devil his due. I remember my first suit from Murray Bittman which cost me $700, a lot of money at the time. That set the stage for a gradual but continual loss of sensibilities and sanity that has brought me to this quasi-deranged brink of spending truly ungodly sums of money on something that is totally non-essential. But, I am somehow able to rationalize this conspicuous consumption by not falling prey to other vices. I feel like I'm in bespoke group therapy [​IMG] Grayson
     


  10. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    Actually, my very first suit was my Bar Mitzvah suit, purchased at the wonderful MacHugh's clothing store in the lovely town of Ridgewood, New Jersey, now, sadly, transformed into a bank or something. MacHugh's was really one of the great clothing stores of their time.
    Grayson
     


  11. MCA

    MCA Well-Known Member

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    Hi Mr. Grayson,

    I really appreciate your informative posts.

    I know Mahon, Hitchcock & Beaman suits start from the mid 1000s GBP. I am curious about Morgan's price range, would you be so kind to share? Sorry if I missed it somewhere in the thread.

    I also have very high regards for Sig. Siviglia and his daughter, they're among the nicest people you can ever meet, and their work is outstanding.

    Regards.
     


  12. Kaga

    Kaga Senior Member

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    Mr Grayson:

    If my memory serves me correctly, you recently were commendatory about Henry Poole.  Could you tell us more about your experiences with them?

    KAGA Takeshi
     


  13. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    MCA, candidly, it's been so long since I first commissioned my first suit with Joe Morgan, I've lost track of the price, and what with the continued plunging dollar, I'm afraid to ask him to refresh my memory--See previous posts regarding psychological barriers [​IMG] I seem to recall Joe quoting me around $3,000, give or take, for a 2 pc. suit in high-grade Lesser cloth, which is pretty much the going price for his peer group. Grayson
     


  14. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    Sorry, I don't have personal experience with Poole's, however they enjoy a stellar reputation here in America, based on others' feedback. I don't think you can go wrong with Poole's, however know what you're getting yourself into with any traveling tailor from any region of the world. I still think it's optimal to have a good, reliable tailor close to home. By the way, Poole Managing Director Simon Cundey is one of the real pillars of the English bespoke trade.

    Grayson
     


  15. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

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    If I can get a C&M bespoke suit made of Lessers for $3000 or less, I would do it. I fear that it will cost much more. Finding a good tailor has been one of the most frustrating and expensive experiences for me. After all the time, research and money spent on finding a bespoke tailor, I am still wearing my Hickey and Polo RTW suits. I still don't have a go-to tailor that I can reliably use and trust.
     


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