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Ranking Entry Level (Good Quality) Men's Dress Shoe Options

gimpwiz

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I was curious, and dug up three teardowns on youtube. There might be other teardowns, but they look like just plain ol' reviews so I don't know.







Caution: All three teardowns got their shoes/boots sent by the company, so there's a potential for bias there.

Overall I think all three agree about value (though the first two are much more interested in it because they have customers, not just doing teardowns for youtube): Good value for price, but temper your expectations because the price is decidedly ~$200, "entry level" for decent quality. Lots of leather, but some other materials. Leather quality appears generally pretty good, thick, though some places have shortcuts (like multi-piece heel leather pieces, though you'd only notice during disassembly.) Blake stitched, with a welt seemingly more for show than for go. I didn't know most of these terms when I bought mine, and didn't do a ton of research, but overall watching/reading all this new content I'm learning doesn't give me any sort of buyer's remorse.
 

Duke Santos

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Do you want the honest truth or a sweet lie?

Okay, honest truth: no idea. The two pairs I have bought for them are literally the only decent shoes I've owned. I now know where to look, thanks to this forum and others, but 4 years ago all I knew was that any shoe that appeared of reasonable quality was too 'spensive. Like twice a year someone would drag me to a mall and a nice looking shoe was twice the price I paid for the Beckett Simonon shoes.

So frankly I'm the wrong person to ask. Maybe in the future I'll correct this, or maybe the rarity of my wearing anything resembling nice shoes means that owning two pairs is not a problem to be corrected. I apologize, I'm not much of a shoe guy.

If it helps our understanding, I'm happy to take very detailed photos of anything you'd like to see. Macro lens and flash, if'n you'd like ;) that might answer some technical questions not obvious online. Or we could just ask the folks who make 'em. But subjectively, they're... fine? I can wear them all day and be perfectly happy. Dress shoes I've worn in the past were not nearly as nice looking nor comfortable so it's a win for me.

Thanks for this. I've been toying with trying them out for a pair of sneakers as they'd literally be half the price of a similar one from Crown Northampton or Sunspel.
 

manowar

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I've watched several reviews of Beckett Simonon in the past, and if memory serves me well I recall the quality of leather used in the uppers was not great.

Besides, they ought not be a recommendation for first time buyers due to the wait time and international shipping. I still recommend, if at all possible, for people to go to a store to try things on. Or at least to buy from somewhere with quick shipping and easy domestic returns in order to test fit.
 

Louis_HK

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Zappos used to carry very good shoes at a very reasonable price, I got a pair of Church's Dawley at half of what we pay in Hong Kong. But not sure what happen, price suddenly gone up nearly 50% and they no longer offer regular price reduction.
 

Louis_HK

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Also Tricker's offer very competitive price when they're on sale, sometimes up to 50% off their limited selection. But not sure how much you'll have to pay for duties when shipping back to the US. They offer worldwide shipping.
 

JFWR

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Also Tricker's offer very competitive price when they're on sale, sometimes up to 50% off their limited selection. But not sure how much you'll have to pay for duties when shipping back to the US. They offer worldwide shipping.

The only problem with English brands is the shipping/sizing issue for Americans. Unless you're lucky enough to live in NY and you can go get sized at Crockett and Jones, I usually don't recommend the English makers as they are basically non-existent in terms of trying on.
 

hmaterialist

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I live in the UK so can only advise on UK brands such as Loake 1880, sanders, trickers etc. However there are some EU brands which may be accessible in the US.

Berwick 1707 are great value for money shoes which meet the requirements you’ve listed and their GYW shoes start around £165. I recommended them to my close friend rather than the cemented rubbish you can find on the high street at a similar price point and they seemed decent in person. Meermin come in at a similar price and their range is more enticing and they actually have a store in NY which I’ve heard makes returns easier.

For US residents the general consensus seems to be AE all the way due to the price and range of styles offered
 

gmalicki

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The only specific critique I can offer is on meermin. I have two pairs, a double monk in calf and a plain toe boot in shell.
Their calf leather seems to be a peg below higher end makers, and their linings maybe two pegs.

The monk has unfavorable creasing (probably due to stiffness) and is somewhat prone to issues with the finish when polishing.
The shell boot doesn't really have any visible quality issues but the shaft is very stiff and can sometimes be a little uncomfortable even after 6+ months on rotation.

The two lasts I've tried are not really my style and don't fit my foot shape amazingly, but are not bad in themselves.

Overall I find meermin shoes to be comfortable, well built, and good looking. They are a great value, especially for trying out a new style. Some styles they have on offer you just aren't going to find without spending 3x the money.

I would like to try TLB Mallorca in this range because I've seen some impressive stuff, but their selection is pretty basic so I've never pulled the trigger.
 

gmalicki

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Thoughts on cobbler union which can be pretty competitive when on sale?
I have one pair of their Oxford boots and I'm a huge fan.
Great leather, beveled waist, good looking last, very comfortable. I paid 300, pretty much unbeatable. I would be happy with my purchase even at msrp, if it weren't for the tongue in one of the boots being basically horizontal instead of vertical.

I don't really like the direction they have been going lately though - leaning hard into sneakers and chunky wedge soles etc.
 

JFWR

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I live in the UK so can only advise on UK brands such as Loake 1880, sanders, trickers etc. However there are some EU brands which may be accessible in the US.

Berwick 1707 are great value for money shoes which meet the requirements you’ve listed and their GYW shoes start around £165. I recommended them to my close friend rather than the cemented rubbish you can find on the high street at a similar price point and they seemed decent in person. Meermin come in at a similar price and their range is more enticing and they actually have a store in NY which I’ve heard makes returns easier.

For US residents the general consensus seems to be AE all the way due to the price and range of styles offered

Berwickhas a store in NYC? Time to go check it out!
 

物の哀れ

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I think that new enthusiasts need guidance on aesthetics first and “quality” second, although the latter often contributes to the former.

I think Meermin provides good guardrails in this regard. Their styles, lasts, and leathers are much more conservative than the alternatives around their price point.
 

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