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I don't know if Mauro was a buyer, but IIRC he did own some part of the denim bar I believe. But I disagree with Mauro being difficult to get ahold of, his email address is in his sig on the forum and it shouldn't be too difficult to get ahold of him. He's always on his phone
It is possible to like a look and not crave it, to appreciate it and yet know it’s for someone else. Clothes, like photographs and poems and reality TV shows, work on several levels. Sometimes it’s best to stand back, out of the blast radius.
“I like this,” I said to one of the spot-on salesclerks at the new Lanvin men’s store, fingering the top half of a silk tracksuit. I was lying a bit maybe. When confronted with a silk tracksuit — with jersey lining, natch — you’re supposed to touch it. Drug kingpins and well-to-do foreigner retirees, they can wear it; everyone else should just nod and smile.
It had a pleasing iridescence, though. My fingers lingered. Maybe I’m not who I think I am.
I wasn’t upset, then, when later the salesclerk knocked on the door of my dressing room, hidden behind a floor-to-ceiling mirror at the back of the store, and presented me with the matching set, stashed underneath a few other things I’d asked to try on. Enabling isn’t always a crime.
A word about the dressing room: it is large and intimate, with a giant mirror on one wall. You could get comfortable in there. You might be inclined to take some selfies. And why wouldn’t you: almost everything in the store feels like a tremendous costume you could still conceivably wear out into the street.
That’s because Lanvin has excelled, in recent years, at pushing the edges of comfort without being immune to comfort. Its clothes are classics remade with flamboyance but not a corrosive commitment to abstraction. A proper Lanvin outfit connotes seriousness while playing loose with the sorts of colors used inside the lines.
At the new location on Madison, which is Lanvin’s first men’s store in this country, a block away from the women’s store, I tried on a pleasingly cut and unforgivably expensive black leather jacket ($3,950). A clerk drew my attention to the stitching at the zipper.
“All of our functional elements become ornamental,” he told me, which is exactly as it should be, not one or the other but both.
O.K., sometimes just ornamental, like the white T-shirt with heavy chenille-style embroidery ($495), or the jacket and pants with a monochromatic flower motif, or the pair of metallic dark yellow parachute-esque pants, which seemed suited to a life selling beaded tank tops in Tulum.
Back to function I was drawn to, and gave in to, a night-black cotton piqué polo, with delicate buttons and a grosgrain collar ($335). Buttoned to the top, it seemed as if it might sprout its own sleeve tattoos, and therefore become the ideal outfit for a big hard-core show. (Maybe the Black N Blue Bowl this spring?)
The range of sport coats was thrilling: a teal shawl-collar blazer, a short turquoise option, a rough-to-the-touch white jacket that fit snugly.
From a distance, I loved a navy blue snap-front baseball jersey ($775) that’s a second or third cousin to what Frank Ocean wore on the Grammy red carpet, though the proportions veered toward karate gi or sausage casing territory.
“I was admiring your knit,” one of the clerks said, handing me a gray knit silk cardigan with gold buttons ($2,550). Maybe he was telling the truth. Maybe he was playing fabric association. Maybe there are only so many ways to sell a knit silk cardigan, and you take the opportunities when they come. It looked silly in my hand, and perfectly reasonable on my person.
In the middle of the store is a wall of sneakers all in the several-hundred-dollar range — these are the company’s main crossover item. More often than not, the pork-chop-thick soles are topped off with a bulky “Project Runway” costume-designer fabric. I’ve tried them on before, and they look like elitist clown shoes. You can get the look for less (still a lot, but less).
Sneakers seem like the easy choice, but a better entry point would be the thin T-shirts with multicolor, multisize dots ($450). Or maybe the metallic and earthy slate-blue T-shirt with almost-black accents, including a strip across the bottom of the front, and two thin stripes at the shoulders ($280). The color glares almost menacingly; it’s probably beating up more sullen, weaker shirts in my closet as we speak.
Back in the fitting room, once I was through with the clothes I’d asked for, there was the leisure suit — hooded top ($675) and pants ($495) — shimmering up at me. Why not? I slipped them on and regarded myself in the mirror. Now this was a look: like an eel with an attitude, or a joyous Mylar parade float. Everyone should be so cozy for at least two minutes in his life. I snapped a picture, so I’d remember it always, and then I slithered out of it and back into my own skin and left.
Now this was a look: like an eel with an attitude, or a joyous Mylar parade float.
I... I think I want to sell my DR...
I... I think I want to sell my DR...
I guess there are a few reasons, but I don't know how to succinctly explain this so it's spoiler'd below.
In any case, it's a stock 48 iirc, but with a slightly smaller fit in the waist. If I do sell it, it'll go up on B/S in a couple days.
The first—and most important—thing is that, even though it fits pretty well all around, I'm not 100% happy with the fit. It's too tight at the waist, so if I zip it up then any shirt that I'm wearing beneath gets constricted and "skirts" out (if that makes any sense). It also doesn't help that after 13 years of playing hockey I've got an uncommon booty-waist ratio; the jacket can kind of accentuate that in a not-so-flattering way. And I can't imagine that my waist will be getting any smaller over the years (I'd prefer it didn't, to be honest). I love wearing it—I think it looks great—but I'd be way more satisfied with something that fit better.
Beyond that I know that there are other things I'd like to have in order to round out my wardrobe: better t's, button-down's, a hat (holy **** do I ever need one now more than ever), etc. I'd also like to have a piece of outerwear for the spring that isn't black, i.e., something that can be worn with dark indigo and khaki without looking, respectively, too Grease or too Indiana Jones. For a while I'd been thinking a ToJ varsity would be nice to get for my spring outerwear. I'm still wondering if that would be best.
And maybe this last point contradicts what I've said or implied earlier in this post or in other posts, but I'm unsure about just how well "edgy" items mesh with how I want to dress. This is something I've been wondering for a while, and I still don't have any clear idea at the moment. Which isn't to say that a part of me wants to "dull down" my style... It's just, I don't really know how to explain it. I think part of this also has to do with not being able to access or try on different clothes whenever I like in order to see what I might like. So I'd rather start with the more basic stuff (as mentioned above) and then figure out where to go from there.