I liked Geller FW08 and 09 best. The fencing shirts were amazing. Honestly if I could get those in every colourway and the old W+H 07 riri flannels in every colourway I would not need any other shirts (outside of work clothes obviously). Teger part of the problem is the palette W+H has moved towards has made them basically into a slightly more interesting Gitman Bros. As for the notion that the old world romantic prussian military-influenced stuff was "lifted from Plokhov and Cloak", it was my understanding that Geller was sort of the driver of that stuff when IN Cloak and Plokhov was more about tailoring and geometry (which IMO is reflected in his new stuff). But I cannot speak authoritatively, I just remember that being discussed at some point. maybe, but IMO the new geller collections have shown that if did originate with him, he can't really move past it in a meaningful/good way. it's kind of the same beef i have with krane, but much less so because krane isn't really a largescale runway presented line.