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Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, May 15, 2015.

  1. t3hg0suazn

    t3hg0suazn Senior member

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    wow I didn't know that PH was the greatest of trolls. That's amazing. Thanks for the post!
     
  2. Noctone

    Noctone Senior member

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    honestly i don't think i've ever read anything about harnden that didn't make him sound like the world's biggest tool
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. nicelynice

    nicelynice Senior member

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    from the ~totally anecdotal~ evidence, apparently he's just a grumpy old dude who makes clothes and drinks beer. his wife or other team members were responsible for jacking up prices and other business decisions. either way, one of the most unfriendly brands on the planet!
     
  4. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    i don't think think he's a tool, he's just a stoned hillbilly who goes out to the forrest with his buddies and they fire potato launchers for fun. except they go in his Rolls Royce with private chauffeur because he can now afford that.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2016
    5 people like this.
  5. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    :lol:

    Idk I never understood why it's PH shoe makers and their known for their clothing
     
  6. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Senior member

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    @Guy Burgess how do you like the William Lennon hill boots? Hard and brutal? Weirdly rolling step?
     
  7. skeen7908

    skeen7908 Senior member

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    would make for an amazing documentary
     
  8. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Senior member

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    Speaking of Paul Harnden, can anyone give me/point me to an introduction to that whole "scene" (provided he is seen as belonging to one). The aesthetic seem pretty close to "repro", but obviously not of Americana.

    edit: obviously not repro in the literary sense, but rather as "period specific/referential" (i can imagine some of the PH looks being recreated fairly well by mixing some of the fedora lounge style brands that reproduce British victorian/edwardian styles).
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2016
  9. Mulan

    Mulan Senior member

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    English peasant is how I would sum up his aesthetic. Customer base tends to be into, "artisanal clothing." Found in boutiques along side the same niche of brands that involve pre-distressed shoes and clothing. Pauly Harndeanny hates the internet, will not allow his work to be seen by retailers on the interwebz and hates all brands(Bergfabel, etc) that also mix linen into their wool/cotton fabrics to get the same wrinkled look that he is known for.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2016
  10. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Senior member

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    ^ where did the whole pre-distressed/artisanal thing come from? And why does PH appeal to these people (and say, getting some wide wool pants from Old Town doesn't)?
     
  11. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Senior member

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    actually feels more mittel-european to me than english, not sure why. perhaps i'm just thinking of the august sander portraits that have obviously influenced him

    also, brighton is a melancholic faded seaside resort with ridiculous aspirational commuter-town pretensions, living there would turn anyone who is not an idiot into a total misanthrope. you can't even escape now because the trains don't work
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2016
    7 people like this.
  12. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    In PH's case he worked for (with?/consulting? I forget..) Comme des Garçons and isn't really part of the same scene as the other "arte povera" brands who are mainly Italian-based. I'd say the connection with the Carpe children brands and whatnot is mainly due to stores who carry him and not PH himself.

    Because he's sold in places with these other "artisanal" of "gothninja" brands it is amusing that I can wear something from, say, engineered garment with PH and have people as me what the former is...
     
    2 people like this.
  13. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Senior member

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    ^ thanks fuuma.

    Any ideas about the orgin /reason for "arte povera" as a style?
     
  14. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    Comes from Maurizio Altieri and the "continues" brand he helmed. Many of his former collaborators (some weren't very important but still claim that lineage) went on to start labels (Sarah Lanzi, Simone Cecchetto, Maurizio Amadei, Luca Laurini, Yoko Ito etc.) in the same aesthetic vein. You can see it as the encounter of being near the production sites so being interested in technical possibilities (patterns, materials, distressing) and some sort of Italian tradi meets 90s dreaded hippie meets contemporary art graduates thing.

    Most of the people involved are either Italian or Japanese (many of them having moved to Italy).

    I'm sure you could place it in the context of 90s antifashion and deconstruction.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2016
    7 people like this.
  15. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Senior member

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    @Superb0bo The boots are so hard and brutal. I haven't had a chance to wear them enough to break them in as I've been in extended summer after coming to the northern hemisphere but hopefully with more wear they'll get easier. The rolling step hasn't been an issue but the size of the top of the boot has been interesting as there's more space than I'm used to around my ankle. My feet don't move or anything it's just weird lacing them. I'll definitely left you know how they go but it may take a while!

    My first PH buy was a 2nd hand Pocket Blazer. I'd seen lots of pictures and liked that he wasn't doing vintage Americana, and thought it'd work with the other stuff I mostly wear so I took a chance on it. I ended up loving the narrow shoulders (most vintage and repro is really shit for me in that regard), the heavy Fox Brothers fabric and the details of the pockets hanging below the edge of the blazer. Since then I've bought a fair bit of PH but am now well and truly priced out of buying it new due to the raise in price from expensive to obscene - which has really been helped by his association with the "artisanal" labels mentioned and where he is stocked.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2016
    3 people like this.
  16. myshoeiswet

    myshoeiswet Senior member

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    For fans of Willie's Shoe Service, Anthony Bourdain shot a Raw Craft episode there:
     
    4 people like this.
  17. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    sick, i had my protective soles added by willies to my CCP
     
  18. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Senior member

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    is there an equivalent of Fog Linen for men?
     
  19. troika

    troika Senior member

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    Eidos? My gf has a bunch of FL's dresses, they are pretty dope. The thick linen ones especially
     
  20. blue peter

    blue peter Senior member

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    looking for charcoal grey wool trousers for the f/w season - hate to look beyond my beloved EG but I think I'd like these to be a more "traditional length" and not so cropped as the EG trousers have been lately (on me). any suggestions for a pair that will fit the EG aesthetic? thinking Drakes or Grahame Fowler to start...cheers
     

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