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Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, May 15, 2015.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Yea, but they were recently bought up by LVMH, who's trying to make bigger profits. The problem is that bootsonline and Nunger are undercutting RM Williams' own online shop prices, as well as their international retailers such as Mr. Porter. So you can't have someone selling $340 boots or whatever when everyone else is forced to retail them at $500 or so. They're supposed to crack down soon, either forcing everyone to an international price or just cutting off certain retailers.



    No experience, but be careful with styles outside of their 1880 line. Unless you're going with suede, they're usually made from not-so-great leathers.

    Loake has a Chelsea in their 1880 line, but it's a little more expensive than the 290s.
     
  2. OccultaVexillum

    OccultaVexillum Senior member

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    Are there any decent-to-good bespoke shoe makers? Like Luxire for footwear?
     
  3. iamacyborg

    iamacyborg Senior member

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    Luxire have made some attempts on shoes IIRC.
     
  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Depends on your budget and what you mean by bespoke.

    If by bespoke, you mean someone makes you a fully custom last, not at an affordable price point.

    If by bespoke, you mean someone fits up an existing last (making adjustments to a last), then yes depending on your budget.

    If by bespoke, you mean someone does a MTO shoe -- customizing the design based on an existing pattern and last, then yes (although still depending on your budget).

    There are some shoemakers in Shanghai who do custom shoes, but it's helps if you're in the area. Or at least speak Manderin. Quality is ... not great, but the work is a lot more affordable than what you'd pay in Western countries. Mr. Billy is one such shop.

    There are also some places in Argetinia, but they're a lot harder to order from via remote communication.

    There's also Horace Batten in the UK and E. Vogel in NYC. Horace Batten used to do fitted-up lasts, but -- last I enquired a couple of months ago -- they don't anymore. It used to be that you could send them a photo of a shoe you like, your measurements, and they'd make a last for you (as well as a custom design). But it's easy to get a poor fit this way, which ends up being very expensive for the shoemaker. They still do MTOs; I just don't think they'll do fully custom lasts.

    A bit higher up are all the bespoke shoemakers people talk about on the CM side of the forum. Nicholas Templeman is probably the most affordable of West End trained makers. I have a pair from him coming next week. From the stuff I've seen, his work is really nice, but I'm still waiting for mine to arrive. Styles are a bit more traditional, but you might be able to get something more casual.

    There are also some operations out there that will send you a mold for your foot, and do some kind of remote bespoke process. From what I've seen, they're all terrible.

    Vass and Saint Crispins will also do custom designs (the first on standard lasts; the second has a personalized last service that adjusts current models). Again, more on the traditional side of things, but very nice in terms of construction and value. Enzo Bonafe also offers this kind of service.

    Oh, and Russell Moccasin in Wisconsin, but they do very specific, casual hunting styles. Construction quality is OK, but not great. Quality control is OK, but again not great. I have a pair being remade right now with them. They make you trace your own foot, then take measurements, but those kinds of methods aren't very reliable. It's easy for a slightly misaligned angle on the pencil to give the wrong info. And accurately tracing your own foot is a lot harder than one might think.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Crazy to think this was a real article ~10 years ago:

    http://www.nytimes.com/2005/06/19/fashion/sundaystyles/gay-or-straight-hard-to-tell.html?_r=1


    One of the brands listed as gay vague: Modern Amusement. WTF?
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
  6. MickeyPunch

    MickeyPunch Senior member

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    I wish RM Williams did any type of boots other than chelseas. They look good but god I hate chelseas, I can't get over the elastic band.
     
  7. OccultaVexillum

    OccultaVexillum Senior member

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    Yeah i guess there is a lot to take in consideration. There's really nothing I can find in terms of what I'm looking for on the market, so I was thinking about trying to have one made from scratch, which I guess would be a custom last (?), unless last is just referring to the foot shape in which case I guess any workwear boot last would work. Budget wise I'd pay up to $500 if I was confident they could have a fair go of making what I want, even if quality wasn't amazing.
     
  8. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    :inlove:

    I suppose SLP or Eidos or Leder might be other options.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
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  9. Noctone

    Noctone Senior member

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    2 people like this.
  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I remember the line as being a totally innocuous, Southern California-inspired casualwear label though, no? It was like the most generic clothing ever.
     
  11. Noctone

    Noctone Senior member

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    Eh, it certainly is now (amazingly it still exists). But at least back when this article was written they used a lot of pastels and garish patterns.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
  12. Nik Telford

    Nik Telford Senior member

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    The last is the shape yeah, I don't know of any bespoke boot makers but there are plenty of custom makers. I would check out reddit's goodyearwelt subreddit to get recommendations. I know White's and I think Truman Boot Co both do custom orders. Those are the only I remember off the top of my head.
     
  13. nicelynice

    nicelynice Senior member

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    Just curious what you're looking for in a workboot you can't find on the existing market?
     
  14. OccultaVexillum

    OccultaVexillum Senior member

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    Not a workboot that's just the kind of shape that would work best. Basically I want some kind of field boot/combat boot with grosgrain straps/cinches instead of lacing.
    I've been trying to find some surplus boots with a decent shape and DIY it, but they are all way to bulky and I never realised how hard it was to find a plain toe surplus boot with suede (best I can find is nubuck).
    If I could find some CP combat boots or Vis 7-holes for dirt cheap I would use those and hack them up to at least have a prototype/sample.

    EDIT: If there's another group MTO for Viberg maybe I can do a mock up?
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
  15. basil rathbone

    basil rathbone Senior member

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    Dayton will do custom/bespoke too.

    edit: maybe not quite to that level, but you never know.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
  16. oulipien

    oulipien Senior member

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    Isn't there a bespoke boot maker who posts on this very forum? Not that I can remember his name.
     
  17. penanceroyaltea

    penanceroyaltea Senior member

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  18. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I think he's talking about David Frommer, who goes by DWF on this forum. He makes bespoke shoes, and is willing to do remote fittings, but his prices are a lot higher than $500/ pair.

    Ron Rider does RTW shoes, made in Italy.

    OV, I think you're probably best with a DIY project. For $500, you'd be hard pressed to find someone who's willing to do a custom pattern and use good leathers/ quality construction. $500 is already a good deal if you can do a MTO, nevermind a totally new design.

    There's also this guy. Young, self-trained shoemaker. I don't know much about the quality of his work, but he's just starting. Prices are a bit higher than what you've budgeted, but maybe you can negotiate something if he's up for a challenge.

    http://www.raphaelherrera.com/

    He specializes in traditional dress styles, but again, maybe you can work something out.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
  19. penanceroyaltea

    penanceroyaltea Senior member

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    Whatever occulta is describing sounds like black (suede) engineer boots though. Should be possible to find..?
     
  20. OccultaVexillum

    OccultaVexillum Senior member

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    Not as round and tall as engineer boots. The idea came from a picture of a paratrooper that used his chute straps to tie his boots on because the laces rotted. They were just wrapped around the shaft a handful of times and tied off, and then another one tied around the foot, wrapping between the heel and forefoot, straps hanging all over the place and it just looked cool as shit. I can't even find the picture anymore and when I try and google it I can't find anything. All of the paratrooper boots I see are like riding boots, this guys were like a nylon canvas or something so there was shape in the toes but the rest was very unstructured.
    Anyway I agree that DIY would be the logical, and easiest, route. But it would be cool to have one done for real. Thanks for all the tips.
     

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