Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, May 15, 2015.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    @nicelynice, shell cordovan is really water resistant. A really long time ago, Ron Rider on the CM side of the board conducted an experiment using American shell (Horween) and Japanese shell (I think it was Shinki). He made two bags out of the materials and filled them up with water, IIRC, to show that shell can hold water for days (and thus, also keep water out). Horween performed a lot better than Shinki though, in terms of actually holding the water. At least from memory; you may have to dig up the thread again.

    Anyway, as you probably read, the main problem is that shell develops spots and welts when it rains, which can be annoying. The way to get them out is to let the leather dry naturally, then brush them with a horsehair brush for a while. You can also rub the leather with the back of a spoon, just to press those welts down. Might be apocryphal, but there's an old story about how this used to be done with deer bones (I think it came out of the John Lobb of St. James book, The Last Shall Be First). Anyway, deer bones were marketed around the shoe community for a while based off that romantic story, but some deer bones have very, very fine rough bits, which scratches leather. For a cheaper and safer solution, you can essentially get the same results with the back of a metal spoon.

    To prevent spotting in the first place, you can also apply a layer or two of Alden Leather Defender, which -- as far as I can tell -- is a sort of water repellant spray. Only catch: my guess is that, by also keeping water off the leather entirely, you're also making it hard for shell to take up cream conditioners. Maybe not a problem since I'm not that convinced shell soaks up cream conditioners in the first place, but maybe something to think about. I actually sent out emails to Nick at Horween and someone at Alden this morning, asking if I could interview them for a story about Alden Leather Defender. Also looking for some people with critical views of the product, but haven't been able to find anyone in the shoe community who dislikes it. It's mostly used by that island community of Alden enthusiasts.

    The other solution for rain shoes is to just spray suede boots down with a water proofer (I use Allen Edmonds). Then you get the same water repellence and don't have to worry about spotting or welting. Only thing is: you may want boots with some kind of reverse welt and rubber sole, so that water doesn't soak up through the bottom. The water probably won't migrate to your feet, but if your shoes aren't really built for the rain, the water can cause damage in the long run.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015


  2. cocostella

    cocostella Senior member

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    Doods, this thread has been on fire lately. Excellent discussion and in-depth analysis on interesting topics. It's fun to read...
     


  3. NorthCoast

    NorthCoast Senior member

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    I was in Trickers a couple weeks ago. The guy at the store was telling me that their shell will blister. He indicated that Horween shell is much better that whatever company Trickers sources their shell from.

    He did tell me why they don't buy Horween but of course I forgot. Might have been import tariffs etc.
     


  4. LonerMatt

    LonerMatt Senior member

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    What photography forums have you tried? I've never had one stick, there's just so little, I don't know, cross-pollination?

    Like they are too focused - photography is such a broad hobby (art history, blogs, taking photos, locations, personalities, equipment, processing, printing, tonnes of cool shit) yet the conversations are often so staid...
     


  5. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    Last comment on this but made it a point to go check out some Vetements stuff in person. Actual garments were great. Bomber proportions are skewed all around, and actually a lot in common with the Undercover one I pointed out, though I think the Vetements runway one in the pic was different than what i saw in store based on the sleeves (different season I guess). Some clever stuff, and sophisticated whether they like it or not. Then looked at the last show again and actually laughed. Think they may be doing themselves a disservice with that.
     


  6. Jabonator

    Jabonator Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     


  7. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    @artishard116
     


  8. basil rathbone

    basil rathbone Senior member

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    Photo forums are way too gear-orientated for me. The technical side of photography is pretty boring, but it's all most enthusiasts focus on. I stopped looking for forums a while ago, but am open to suggestions too, if anyone has some.
     


  9. zissou

    zissou Senior member

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    I would not put Obenauf's on the suede side. You'd probably need some kind of spray, but I Haven't tried any. Fiebings Water Protector Spray might do the trick, but I would test it on a scrap of leather first.



    I usually wait at least a few hours after applying it and buff off all of the excess with a soft cloth. It will feel a tad sticky to the touch, but that's only because it is wax. It won't get on your clothes, though.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2015


  10. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Senior member

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  11. nicelynice

    nicelynice Senior member

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    Thank you for the detailed information, really appreciate it!!
     


  12. ThaiToast

    ThaiToast Well-Known Member

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  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    The garments are certainly clever. There's not doubt about that. His appointment by Balenciaga makes me wonder what they were looking for in a new creative director. Keeping in mind that in spite of all the hype, designers don't typically have bags of money, and that the luxury companies and their parent companies do, the luxury companies hold the power during interviews and negotiations, and a designer probably has to bring more than a small, albeit of the moment, label, to the table, to be appointed as creative director. I seriously doubt that the courting was particularly one-sided.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2015


  14. ghdvfddzgzdzg

    ghdvfddzgzdzg Senior member

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    Random lower Manhattan fashion observation thoughts (as someone who doesn't live in NYC):

    It feels like this whole town is wearing Stan Smiths or variants thereof
    If it's not those, it's CPs. I think I saw $8k worth of CPs on one day this week
    I saw probably one pair of GATs each day
    Danny Bowien looks pretty cool with a tucked-in shirt and jeans
    There's still biker jackets everywhere
    Tokio 7 is serious. I think I spent two hours just looking at stuff
    The rick stooges I tried on there is also serious
    Abasi Rosborough blazers are brilliant but $$$$
    That Camoshita waffle knit blazer (not where I saw it but you can get it at NMWA) from this season is gorgeous
    The Kapital ring coats at Blue in Green spoke to me, I had to buy one
    The Craig Green strappy things at Dover Street Market are preposterous and silly
    I loled at (with?) the Walter van Beirendonck rack at DSM
    the Geller Dominik is a cool coat
    The Soho Totokaelo is cool and all but the construction, with loud noises and the radio playing behind a translucent sheet in the men's area, added a good dimension on it

    PS hender scheme is gorgeous in person and shout out to Idol for putting up with my gawking friends who I convinced to come in there by describing the store as the "thousand dollar goth sweater store"
     


  15. RegisDB9

    RegisDB9 Rico Suave

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    This piece is probably my only "grail" as the kids call it. Did Margiela even release this in 2010? I think I've seen a short sleeve or long sleeve version but shit I'll even take the sleeveless if I could find it

    [​IMG]
     


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