Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, May 15, 2015.
About tts, sometimes slightly more fitted around the shoulders and chest.
Fok is pretty much right. The fits are often meant to be generous because the fabrics have great drape. But you can sometimes size down for a more fitted look. Really depends on the piece though. But at that price, it's worth the gamble.
Oh yeah, sleeves run long.
H&M with the kids version of Margiela futuristic/vag sneakers
Can you visit the Kind-u warehouse?
Sort of - they have a large number of shops around Japan (30+) and you can go to them like you would any second-hand designer shop. I will probably try to check out at least one or two while I'm there, though.
Yeah, that's a good idea. I'll probably not make it in time to meet up tonight anyway. Lets do a SW&D SF meeting end of October when it turns back to whiskey, boots and leather weather. Karaoke?! ::--))
I'm not getting any Ivy vibes there. Am I missing something? Kinda nice no-structure cardigan-style blazers, but the cuts and details don't seem very IL to me.
@notwithit I freaking love Lower Dens. Fortunately their next show in SF is around $15.
@Parker we should be there around 8ish. I'll wear my crappy All Saints if you bring your 5-zip.
Kanye is at it again.
Seriously. Can someone explain what's going on with the huge sweat shirts?
i like my silver accoutrements tarnished.
does anybody polish or do you all let it go dark?
It's that Haider Ackermann influence.
That is some horrible fashun, Kanye. Fleshy-beige leotards and sagging XXL beige hoodies.
He is going to give looser fits a bad name before the whole thing is even off the ground.
the boxy cut, dartlessness, button spacing mostly... the jacket length is definitely not CM friendly.
but generally I like how moving from fitted cuts mirrors (references? copies?) the sense of liberation and youth introduced by ivy style back then
i kinda like the washed denim jacket from that collection nice price too.
blazers are a bit meh for me. i think there are better options for unstructured blazers out there.
Yeah, right? At a time after Raf successfully brought back the skinny suit and bearded, flannel-clad hipsters are rocking ball-cleave, Kanye turns around and opts to push Haute Baggin' Saggin' Barry.
The worst part is that sycophantic fashion twits are giving him a pass for his utter crap.
Spoiler: Warning: Vacuous cheerleading
Yeezy Season 2 was a lot like Yeezy Season 1. As he did for his fall launch, Kanye West presented the second season of his men’s and women’s collaboration with Adidas through a performance conceptualized by Vanessa Beecroft. To a lesser scale, she’s the Marina Abramovic to his Riccardo Tisci, though the mock-military formation Beecroft came up with for West’s show couldn’t compete with the poignancy of Givenchy last week.
Yeezy’s models were deployed in small units, apparently grouped according to skin tone, which more or less matched the monochromatic assemblages of oversize hooded sweatshirts, dusters, baggy sweatpants and shorts in over-dyed, broken-in fabrics. Nude bodysuits, leggings and bras were many and the shoe of the season looked like the cool cousin of the classic Sorel Caribou boot. Progressing from light to dark, each group was called to march down the runway by a model playing the part of drill sergeant, which got a little hairy when a few of the troops didn’t seem to understand the order to “fall in.”
West did a good job with a diverse casting.
The staging contextualized the lineup as a stylish streetwear Army, directional and serious but also a bit silly. Clearly influenced by Japanese workwear, the silhouettes were strongly styled to halo the main look, which is just a sweatshirt. The lineup felt more relevant to men’s wear than women’s.
Tisci watched the proceedings from the front row, flanked by Lorde and North West, who was seated on her mother’s lap, giving a preview of the collection in her beige sweats. Just like last season, she grew restless as toddlers do and threw an adorable mini-tantrum that rivaled the runway for entertainment value. Even Anna Wintour seemed amused.
Resistance is futile. For now, West is a fact of fashion life. He’s not going away, and no one counting page views or sneaker sales can complain.
-- Jessica Iredale, wwd.com
Spoiler: Warning: Idiocy
Kanye West only confirmed he was putting on a show last Saturday when his invitations went out, but save for his friend Riccardo Tisci’s 9/11 Givenchy presentation, Yeezy was the event of the week. Outside beforehand, camera phone–wielding fans swarmed the VIP door, angling for a picture of Drake, Lorde, and Jaden Smith. Just as many people were trying to scoot past security without a ticket at the main entrance. Once inside, the setting was comparatively serene, but only until those celebrities and the designer’s family—Kim, North, Khloé, Kourtney, and Kendall—started to take their front row seats; from then on, it was pretty much pandemonium.
West worked with performance artist Vanessa Beecroft for the second season going. Like last time, street-cast models mixed with professional ones, and Kylie Jenner, the designer’s sister-in-law, put in a cameo. Unlike last time, West and Beecroft made the military metaphor literal, enlisting real drill sergeants who called out formations. Platinum-blond, fair-skinned models came first and marched to the end of the runway to pose for pictures. As the show progressed, the clothes shaded from beiges and taupes to browns and blacks, and the models’ hair and skin tone got darker, with the darkest models and clothing coming last. At the finale they arrayed themselves front to back, white to black.
In a year in which racial injustice has occupied the headlines, it was a potent tableau, seemingly loaded with meaning. But if West was making a statement about inequality in America, he chose not to address it with this reporter. When asked about the casting, he said, “It’s just a painting, just using clothing as a canvas of proportion and color.” We’re not sure if we buy that, but if West wants to put the focus on his fashion, not his politics, then we’ll play along.
The Yeezy vibe is a consistent one. Sweatshirts, leggings, outerwear, and boots remain the backbone of the collection. It’s still monochrome head-to-toe, and it’s still essentially unisex. Spring does feel less shaggy than its predecessor, but it’s just as streetwise. If West makes good on his promise at the VMAs last month and does indeed run for President in 2020, he’s going to have to get his campaign trail suits somewhere else.
-- Nicole Phelps, vogue.com
They attempt to skirt the issue of relevance with vague, "objective" descriptions of what was shown, even resorting to listing off the celebrities in attendance in almost every case. (Kanye's toddler was present? And "threw an adorable mini-tantrum"? You don't say!) And you can tell, even just based on the pandering, uncritical descriptions of sweatshirts and leotards (and not much else) that it's garbage.
Among the supposed critics, only Cathy Horyn dared criticize the assumption that big-name popularity somehow predestines vision or relevance:
Spoiler: Warning: Honesty
KANYE WEST IS FOOLING THE FASHION WORLD
The emperor has a clothing line.
A great to-do is made over Kanye West, the Designer. Yesterday, I was embarrassed to find myself running up Tenth Avenue to his Yeezy show — but I feared panic at the door, security guards twice my size, and a path through the mob just big enough for a rat to squeeze through, all of which turned out to be the case. (Of course, Courtney Love, Riccardo Tisci, Seth Meyers, and the Kardashians, all of whom were guests, had a separate VIP entrance maybe ten feet away.)
Yeezy Season 2 was kind of amusing. Again, West worked with the performance artist Vanessa Beecroft, and again, he showed hoodies, baggy pants, and beige under-things, as if time these past six months had stood still. The presentation was in a white-walled basement in Chelsea, with the audience sitting on either side of a wide floor. As a drill sergeant barked out commands — “First row!” — a line of models appeared, followed by a second and a third, all of them in tights or leggings or stretch shorts and tops that looked a lot like Spanx.
“Left, right! Left, right!” Those models exited and another batch came out, now dressed in woebegone fatigue jackets and pants, and, I might add, looking rather downcast. They made me think of POWs. The military conceit was apt, given the mind-lock that Kanye has managed to put on the fashion world. This second round of drab, broken-down basics proved he can’t be taken seriously as a designer, but nevertheless many people in fashion do seem to take West seriously — they keep showing up expectantly for his performances — and that makes them fools. Because they wouldn’t bother with this stuff if it were offered by an unknown, and if it’s the spectacle they seek, it changes as little as the clothes.
-- Cathy Horyn, nymag.com
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