Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, May 15, 2015.
Our odds are even better for women than Ashley Madison, which apparently is 95% dudes.
oh also RE: LA guy response to my "typical designer" smear vs Eidos.
I get your point of "typical designer" being pretty nebulous other than the idea of 'contemporary'.
Even still I kinda disagree. Most of the established brands work within a pretty narrow spectrum of fabric use and pattern making. To narrow in on your specific examples, other than the proprietary fabrics Issey has developed, the fabric selection, pattern making and construction quality of Comme and Issey are more or less on parr with one another; both also have tons of different lines with differing quality, other than PLAY, there is more or less an analogous line across the way. Is Rick really very different? I don't think so. I'd say some of it is made with less focus on construction quality; and some of it is made to feel very luxurious. but I don't think any of those brands really approaches what Eidos does where the use of fabric is so precisely calibrated with pattern making and tailoring. Issey and Comme are doing more experimental things with fabric use and consturction and RO is almost purely driven toward a very specific aesthetic statement that is nearly the inverse of Eidos.
southwillard does not have a cool or interesting perspective as a clothing store (anymore). the most interesting stuff are the ceramics/weird art objects.
I liked their cake truffles. Everything else, I was pretty ambivalent about, tbh. I like old school American and riffs on that as much as the next guy, but I prefer deserts that are considerably less sweet and have a bit more subtlety. So, at the trunk show, I'll be the guy with the mohawk in the military vest over the leather bomber, sorta like Taxi Driver meets Not Country for Old Men, daintily eating a small piece of tart.
it's hard for me to talk about PE here but I guess I understand why people perceive this arc in the work. I think he's a bit burnt out these days and obviously what makes it to retail is not the best representation of the full collections. but I'd say fw13 - present is some of the best stuff he's done. in terms of quality it actually can't be compared to the older stuff which was made somewhat cheaply by todays contemporary standards.
in terms of ideas, the reality is that his work has never really been conceptually driven (at least in terms of overarching collection concept), it's always little ideas, minutiae, very formalistic. I think any direction of Americana or sportswear exploration was more incidental and in the end, intended more for evocation rather than a kind of direct conversation with those ideas. Read any interview with him; he will always deny any real inspiration or starting point. If he does point to one it's always post-design, it's the bow tie on the wrapped package that neatly sums it up for press or a narrative for the consumer but it's not at all the design ethos. The design ethos has always been almost entirely formalistic with the occasional diversion into doing what feels wrong or taking something dated, gross or out of style and recontextualizing it. Not exactly new territory in fashion but he's the only American that has done it in a serious and compelling way with real wearable clothes in stores around the world for the last 10 years.
about Vfiles...hard to say way I am prompted to try to defend it. I guess it's my way of trying to accept the democratization of fashion? I mean, there are good and bad things that come with that. But then also there is a beautiful freak flag show happening in that store and I think that is totally necesarry for an industry as stodgy and boring as the fashion industry; whether or not everyone who participates is in it for the weirdo hipster culture or the new mutant social-media driven celebrity culture that now has a real and serious effect on the retail environment and the streetwear zeitgeist.
brands there I like: xander zhou, pigalle, ben davis, vfiles sport plus, facetasm, tigran avetisyan...and I guess I have to say craig green
If it's fabrics you are interested in, I think that brands like 08Sircus, in the "designer" realm, and at about the same price as Eidos, does a good job. I would agree that a lot of designer brands get a bit lazy, and not just with fabrics. I'm looking at you, Rick, and do the same thing year after year, with over the top runway shows. Not sure how you could possibly say that Issey Miyake doesn't take a ton of care in both design and construction methods.
I have seen, and I like, Eidos stuff, and I think that they combine a lot of thought into construction along with a decent amount of fabric research, but I don't feel that they are as distinctive when compared against brands like Piombo or Boglioli or Ring Jacket.
My main point was apparently lost in my rambling, though. It's that construction and materials and just overall execution are generally considerably better in the higher end of men's tailoring than in their price equivalent in "contemporary" sportswear, perhaps because the boundaries are much tighter, and so, you work on just those things. I think that the exceptions are in the repro brands, perhaps for the same reasons, and Japanese brands like 08Sircus, perhaps because they have a more receptive audience.
^ agree 100%.
you know I love and collect Issey, but his work is not really driven by combining luxury fabric and traditional tailoring. it's pattern making and fabric exploration pushing into his silhouettes.
Speaking of stores and "curated", Manufactum in Frankfurt is by far the best store i´ve ever been to, even though clothes is just one small part of what they are selling.
(just bought some german made insanely heavy black cords, a par of black moleskin pants, and a wooden toy crossbow made in germany there, also like their selection of gin, beer, towels and garden supplies)
Got made redundant, time to move back to London.
On the plus side, Burberry is looking for someone with my precise skillset. Fingers crossed.
Maybe ARW could make an introduction. Dude's probably at Milk Bar with Christopher Bailey right now laughing about how much of a curmudgeon Fok is for throwing shade at Totokaelo.
Thanks COS, just what I was looking for this fall.
Is there like a poor mans Vivism? (Blue Blue Japan sort of is, but not poor enough)
Wait does ARW work for Ervell? I thought he worked somewhere else?
worked for pattie for two years. now i work at a showroom.
I mean, EG do them and they can look cool, so whats to say a more minimalistic approach couldn't work
(I realize you probably weren't interested in discussing it, but I like it and am considering picking it up so I felt that I had to defend it )
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