Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, May 15, 2015.

  1. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Senior member

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    Apparently this is the first RTW collection in five years. I really like some of the blazers and coats, but mostly what excites me is the idea of one dude waging a "culture war" against traditional tailoring as an institution. Like, tailoring has moved so slowly over the last century -- it would be nice for someone to come along and nudge it a little bit faster.
     


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Related, but there are differences that manifest in patterns of consumption. Less emphasis on "drops" results in lower incentive for immediate purchase. Also, the audience of affluent customers is simply lower. All this translates into less money.
     


  3. Ragechester

    Ragechester Senior member

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    Oh man it was a joke, I mostly just thought you checking in with that comment was funny.

    The two are quite different given their brand marketing and target audience but either way it's luxury given the price point.
     


  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    As much as I like this idea, I predict dismal failure. The price point for the collection is really high, and there are essentially 2 types of customers who shop at those prices:

    1) Givenchy wearing fuccbois and other people who care about luxury brands and the latest fashion and can afford it, or will live out of a box in order to buy it. Essentially, the entire regular clientele of Luisa via Roma. This includes people who buy Brunello Cucinelli, but even there, I've been hearing about some not stellar sell through.
    2) Guys who get stuff commissioned from Huntsman, or Rubinacci, or whatever. And buy bespoke shoes make by some Japanese dude in Florence.

    This brand is neither "fashion", nor is it "traditional." Not even Ralph Lauren, possibly the greatest marketer is fashion, could make his Black Label line, which was less expensive, but had a similar client in mind, could make it work.
     


  5. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Senior member

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    Yeah the prices are wack. But maybe one day it will trickle down and J Crew will launch its SpaceMan line and all will be well.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2015


  6. kindofyoung

    kindofyoung Senior member

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    Part of the new COS collection is online, including this dope collarless coat
    [​IMG]
     


  7. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    Not that you said this, exactly, but when were runway shows subtle?



    Side note on internet vs B+M/handling clothes; the cycle of seeing/being able to buy/buying and the fickleness of consumers probably hurts "subtle" and upcoming designers generally. I can see something interesting from a new line on SF or tumblr, but it's a preview for next season, which is then available only in, say, UK and Japan, then maybe the NEXT season is available in NY/LA and it never makes it to Philly or DC; by the time I can handle it without actually buying it I've known about it for a year and a half and it's not as fresh anymore.
     


  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    At first, I thought that the Kilgour model was Drake.
     


  9. conceptual 4est

    conceptual 4est The Classic Gentleman is Back

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    A little late to commuter chat, but it also depends on what you want to get out of your commute, as well as how you like the the neighborhood you'd be moving into, no?

    For the latter, what would the difference be like with regards to neighborhood food spots, how close/far you are from your current friends, and current favorite activities? What kind of a commute do you enjoy?

    For the former, I've had a few different styles of commute and they have all had their perks and drawbacks. Started off with a 5 minute door-to-door walk, which was absolutely incredible in all ways. I could walk back for lunch if I was in the mood, I felt like I had plenty of time to do whatever I wanted, etc. But it also meant I spent almost all of my time in a very, very small periphery, and was less inclined to go too far for very much.

    After that, I had a 10 minute door-to-door commute (different job and different apartment) which was nice in it's own way. Just two stops on a single subway line that was around the corner from my apartment and then office, and again I had the feeling that I had good control over my free time since it was only 20 minutes/day being lost, but it's not like I ever actually did anything during this time.

    Since moving to Brooklyn my commute went up to about 35-40 minutes door to door. I thought I would hate the commute, but my enjoyment of the neighborhood and my general living situation far, far outweighed the extra time on the subway. I ended up working more hours during this time as well, so my actual "free" time dropped multiple steps. That part is a bummer, but I made it a point to read during my commute, so I got in about 40 minutes of reading a day, 5 days a week. It was for sure a step up from how much I was reading during my "regular" free time earlier.

    Starting this past Spring though, I began cycling in (on dry days only), and I like this even more. It makes my body work somewhat hard for about 40 minutes each way, it makes my brain work very hard, and it's just nice to be free from the troubles of the subway. I have gotten barely any reading done since I made this switch though, which I do miss tremendously.

    So, I have much less free time now, but the time I do spend at home is enjoyable enough that I don't mind being so far from my job, and I now enjoy the commute aspect as well, most days, even though I accomplish nothing during that time any more.
     


  10. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    It's really just my perception of things when I was still following PE, I'm not talking about specific garments or anything. I'm being a bit unfair here because I haven't paid attention to the label in a couple years (there's my original wordy ranting somewhere in the first pages of the PE thread if you feel like digging). So we're coming at it from very different angles for obvious reasons but here goes.

    Well he's talking about romance and sci-fi and his predilection for man-made fabrics, uniforms etc and I feel all that stuff gelled perfectly in those collections (I might have the years wrong, it's been a while, basically from the mylar stuff to the rust stuff, give or take) where the technical fabrics r&d side worked in synergy with the overarching concept/theme of the collection and both sorta fed off each other. I also think for a time he managed to turn a good deal of very diverse influences into a coherent and pretty unique take on American sportswear; romantic, minimalist and futuristic in equal measures, evocative but not overly referential etc.

    After that, it kinda felt like he was retreading the same ground (nothing wrong with that) but in increasingly less focused and watered down ways, smoothing out the idiosyncrasies of his work in the process.




    Tell me more about VFiles. It's cool that it's helping young emerging designers but none of that stuff looks promising.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2015


  11. accordion

    accordion Senior member

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    looks a lot like peir wu
     


  12. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

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    Good to see @sipang posts. :satisfied:
     


  13. OccultaVexillum

    OccultaVexillum Senior member

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    Re: Sipang
    Isn't that predominately due to profitability though? People buy pocket sweaters and flight jackets so he keeps making them, nobody really caught on to the high volume trousers so he ditched them (although iirc the SS16 show had them returning). I'm always impressed with Ervell fabric wise, even when things aren't really touted I've yet to be let down by any of his offerings.
     


  14. bows1

    bows1 Senior member

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    I now have a 1.5 mile walk to work every AM (Manhattan to Manhattan) and I love it. However these past couple weeks when its been brutal humidity every day its been tough.

    I do miss 45 minutes per trip on the train back and forth to Brooklyn just for the reading I got done.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2015


  15. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Yeah sure, it's still a business first.






    :satisfied:
     


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