Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, May 15, 2015.

  1. bamgrinus

    bamgrinus Senior member

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    Usually the biggest reason they're having a sale (sometimes selling things below cost) is to clear out inventory space. It would defeat the purpose.
     


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I dunno how many of you follow the ToJ debacle, and I am pretty sure that it is a lot of you, and apologies to everyone who does not want to hear any news about either my or Charly and Dan's ventures, but the first sample jacket arrived today, and it is really well done. I'm stoked.

    The midweight calf leather is nicer (more consistent grain, nicer hand, better drape, especially at the weight) than the leather I've seen from most ToJ (and I've handled a lot of those), and the cut is spectacular - it was the moto, and I'm happier with this fit than with the ToJ fits.

    I will probably change up the pattern a bit. On this sample jacket, there is a bi-swing back, but I feel that that is unncessary and just makes the jacket less clean. I will also ask for a bit more room through the arms in this standard size 50EU. I am reasonably athletic for my size, but I am hardly yoked (it's all bodyweight and kettlebells for me, and no heavy lifting, so you never get jacked), and the sleeves are very slim. I think that I will ask for an additional 1/2" of clearance in that arms. I like the length, though I may ask for the length to be 1/2" less for the standard jacket, since this jacket is probably bit long on most people my height (I have a long torso). and this jacket hits under my beltline. I will probably also ask that the band at the bottom be removed, for a cleaner look overall. And I'll probably change the angle of the handwarmer pockets, making them slightly more on the diagonal, for a more dramatic look.

    Oh, and I had a pair of sashiko pants, patterned after a pair of Northface workout pants, made. They have a higher rise, zipped hip pockets, a moderate taper and plenty of room in the thighs, and are probably the coolest non denim pants I own, save for a pair of heavy canvas pants from Cloak from 2003. I am thinking of making them part of the collaboration, if you guys are interested. Really, really, cool. They would not be inexpensive (I'm guessing in the $300 range), since this is that very expensive indigo dipped Japanese sashiko material, but I think that it would be well worth it. for people looking for something incredibly unique.

    Anyway, just have not been this stoked about product development for a long time, and wanted to share with you guys.
     


  3. planetarium

    planetarium Senior member

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    athletic cut indigo anything: I'm in
     


  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    It makes sense for a small store where there is already some photographer's gear, and an employee is a decent amateur photographer. i.e. where the only real cost is man hours. For example, it's no secret that Ethan's facility with a camera was a big shot in the arm for The Armoury, especially early on in their life. It also shows that professional models are not necessarily needed. However, the minute you need to hire outside help, the return on investment quickly becomes zero, unless you can move some major units.

    Mrporter is the subsidiary of one of the most successful e-tail ventures in fashion, and the cost of each of a photoshoot per item in inventory is very low. I know a few of their vendors, and for even the smallest vendor, that gets no coverage in the newsletters, the orders are typically bigger than any of their other stockists, often by an order of magnitude or more. And MrPorter is in the rather small mens division. If you are a a small retailer, with maybe $250K in inventory, per season, spending even $5 or $10K on a photoshoot for a lookbook that may, or may not, sell any product, can be gratuitous. You need that spend to be accompanied by a really strong presence and strategy for social media, advertising, PR, etc... for it to pay off.
     


  5. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    These new jackets were to be MTM correct? (you'll have a general pattern and then have specific measurements/jacket options for the clients to take) Was wondering wbecaue you said you were changing the pattern
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2015


  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    They will be, in Luxire's typical style, MTM, but we are creating a bunch of stock patterns that should fit 90% of people for a desirable, slimming, silhouette. Most people only need things like sleeve length adjusted. If someone has a very pronounced V shape (so, a drop of 9" or more), or are very overweight, or very tall, or very short, then more adjustments are needed. However, the vast majority of people are probably going to be better off not changing the pattern significantly. The very worst fits that I've ever seen are for MTM garments.

    I'm going to go on record tho say that you should try to change a little of the pattern as possible.
     


  7. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

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    For those of us who haven't been following, can you give the short version of what this venture is? How is it related to ToJ?
     


  8. Khronos

    Khronos Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone dealt with L'inde Palais? I returned something and they seem to have vanished. Its been almost three weeks since delivery and they can't be bothered to return an email.
     


  9. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    No relation to TOJ, they just used the thread as a springboard for the new venture. :foo:
     


  10. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    It's not related to ToJ at all, other than that Luxire realized that there was a real demand for accessibly priced leather jackets that retained the details and workmanship of traditional leather motorcycle jackets, but that were made more for streetwear and fashion. They had already tried to make some leather jackets, but they approached me to collaborate with them, since I have a decent amount of experience as a stylist/designer, and a pretty good grasp of what fashion customers are looking for in a leather jacket. We've been working behind the scenes for a couple of months now, figuring out leathers, trims, cuts, available linings, etc... and they have been getting their supply lines ready, so that when the orders come, production will be streamlined. I've been working on getting a set of 2-3 "standard" configurations for each model - for example, the double rider will have an American model with details that are more like the Schott Perfecto, a more UK/EU model that has features more similar to the Lewis Leather Cyclone, and a "modern" version that is sorta like the Super Monza, but even more cleaned up.

    I have the final sign off on designs, and while I was expecting something pretty good, the product that I was sent as an initial sample was considerably better than what I'd allowed myself to want, requiring only tweaks to the pattern here and there, with only one technical flaw - the leather under the cuff was not anchored on both sizes of the jacket.

    I'm hoping that the leaher samples come it soon.
     


  11. Poomba

    Poomba Senior member

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    Why don't you get a pair made by Luxire?
     


  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Honestly, why don't you get them to make you a pair of pants based on the pattern that they used for my sashiko pants, but cut as dress pants rather than softshell workout pants. You'll probably need to get them slimmed down a few inches, but I'm pretty sure that they can do that. The pattern is based on a pair of NorthFace workout pants, so they taper pretty nicely, but have a decent amount of room in the the thighs and a reasonably high rise (since no one want's their ass showing when they do a squat.)
     


  13. Poomba

    Poomba Senior member

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    @LA Guy Do you have pics of the pants?
     


  14. ShoutOutsFoMyBo

    ShoutOutsFoMyBo Senior member

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    I bought an old chore jacket and bleached it, but I think it's way too short. Does it work?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    partial, yes. I sorta have bad picture of them on, and a couple of better detail shots.
     


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