Random Fashion Thoughts (Part 3: Style farmer strikes back) - our general discussion thread

[Coldsnap]

"The Rake’s founder Wei Koh explains the philosophy behind our groundbreaking initiative aimed at the ethical, cost-conscious classicist."

I'd be sorta mad if someone described me as this.

 

[Newcomer]

That is some patronizing bullshit.

Greg, when are you having your Young Emerging Traditionalist event (dare I use the word "sale")?

 

[FrankCowperwood]

"The Rake’s founder Wei Koh explains the philosophy behind our groundbreaking initiative aimed at the ethical, cost-conscious classicist."

I'd be sorta mad if someone described me as this.

Personally I prefer the term "moralizing, cheapskate student of the ancient Mediterranean world."

And @gdl203 what I need to know here about The Rake Values is can I use stack my NMWA discount code and reward points there? Thanx.

 

[Jobst]

That might be the densest collection of cliche menswear terms I’ve ever successfully read through. Think I threw up a little in my mouth at the coining of “Emerging Traditionalist”. I’d just use “Larval Douchebag”.

Is that sort of **** actually appreciated by anyone, or are these people just racing to make satire impossible ASAP?

 

[Riva]

That might be the densest collection of cliche menswear terms I’ve ever successfully read through. Think I threw up a little in my mouth at the coining of “Emerging Traditionalist”. I’d just use “Larval Douchebag”.

Is that sort of **** actually appreciated by anyone, or are these people just racing to make satire impossible ASAP?

I just read "for a bunch of cheapskates" and I rushed to see the discounted prices with overflowing frenzy. The only ones getting offended are the other stores.

 

[gdl203]

I just read "for a bunch of cheapskates" and I rushed to see the discounted prices with overflowing frenzy. The only ones getting offended are the other stores.

Nothing wrong with sales or even outlets. They serve a legitimate purpose. It's the whole story - cloaking it under the guise of sustainability, saving the oceans and all that BS that is annoying. You know, taking your customer for an idiot...

 

[steveoffice]

i called them out on ig comments and they blocked me lol

 

[bry2000]

If what they are doing is so noble, then Yoox must be doing God’s work.

 

[OccultaVexillum]

Yoox is definitely doing Gods work

 

[Parker]

These new Yoox sponsored designs showed up in my email today. If you an a young traditionalist who can't afford both pants and a sweatshirt.... voilá.

 

[LA Guy]

lol The Rake. More lol the Alexander Kraft, of all the douchenozzles on this planet, would come to the defense of this bullshit.

And now, for something completely different. I got this from Carla Dawn Berle this morning. As this affects a lot of designers and manufacturers who I know and respect, including Carla, and because the initiative is just bullshit (there really is no other way to describe it), I repost her open email for everyone to see here:

The Proposed NYC / NYS Fur Ban
This is a long one, please buckle up!

Yesterday I attended the NY City Council Hearing on the Proposed Fur Ban in NYC.

This bill, introduced this March, and seeks to ban the sale of Fur, Shearling, and Calf in NYC. It is Spearheaded by PETA. It does not differentiate by-product materials clearly and also has in it's sights, leather, feathers, wool and silk.

I got to see first hand the obvious anti-fur bias shown on the part of city council member Corey Johnson. His comportment and tone towards those who do not want the Fur Ban were disrespectful, unprofessional and not befitting a public servant.

Most of us who are in opposition of the ban were unable to testify. There was clear favor that shown to pro-ban supporters even though there were many more of us in attendance.

It was also very concerning that each time shearling, sheepskin or hair-on hides were mentioned in the hearings, the subject was promptly changed. It made it fairly clear to us in the hall that shearling leather and calfskin are to be considered part of the ban.

Also Highly suspect is the poll taken by Peta, regarding NYer’s views on fur, did they even mention Shearling and hair on calf when asking respondents for their views?

This is a very slippery slope. And it is not how democracy works.

As proposed this Ban will not save a single animal's life or prevent any animal suffering. It does not propose one single remedy towards this goal.

Instead of proposing concrete & actionable steps, as Mark Oaten of the International Fur Federation outlined, to further regulate the worldwide fur industry with regards to trapping, farming, accountability and tracking practices. The ban sticks its head in the sand regarding the realities of what it seeks to control. People in NY will continue to buy fur, shearling and calfskin. (Just as people in NY and throughout the USA and the world will continue to eat meat.)

Banning fur in NYC/NYS and killing thousands of local jobs will not change that. Estimated of jobs impacted vary greatly depending on if you ask the Pro Side (40 Retail Store Fronts In the Fur District) or the Industry (7000 jobs / 130 Businesses in JUST the district) Companies like mine are most certainly not included in either count.

It is my belief that it is far better to further regulate both sources and practices. This is how you prevent abuses and educate the consumer - and if there is a cultural shift taking place, allow it take place naturally. Allow the consumer to make their own choices and the businesses to grow into the shift naturally. This will retain jobs (locally and beyond) and skills in the many related sectors.

Several speakers brought up alternative fibers as our saviors. In reality the majority of currently available alternative fibers fare all petrol and plastic based. After banning plastic straws, plastic bags and styrofoam, the proposed ban completely ignores the incredible amount of toxic and everlasting lasting petrol products and micro-plastics that current alternatives will add to the already inundated waste stream.

Calling today’s Fake Fur and Fake leather an ecological alternative is perhaps the biggest marketing scam ever perpetuated.

It will be years before the ‘natural-grown' synthetics will be viable in a way the market can use - Modern Meadows has been pushing a single hybrid t-shirt / leather sample for at least 5 years now - I have looked into these options for my own work. These alternatives do not currently exist in any commercially feasible form.

This "ban" will affect not just Furriers, manufactures & designers, but a much broader range of industries. Not all fall under the wearable category, but they will be directly affected.

Millenary: Fur is used not just as trim but also for the body of hats. Especially good men’s hats.

Television, Film, Theater: The major costume and set shops serving Broadway and NY's Film & Television Industry. These shops also serve the countless independent, out-of-town and touring productions that are made here. Fur, shearling & calf cannot be replaced by synthetics in these very hard wear usages - costumes, especially have to last many, many years - particularly for Broadway - whose costumes go on and have a very long useful lifespan - through reuse and rental - I worked in a major NYC costume house for 5 years. The availability of high quality and natural materials, including fur, shearling, calf, hair on feathers, is vital for them to do their work. These materials are also used in the creation of Props and Sets.

Interior Design and Decor - Furs and Hair-ons are used extensively in High-End commercial, hospitality and residential decor/design - a major requirement of good furniture/decor is longevity.

So while this "Ban" specifically discriminates against the Fashion industries. It will reverberate thru many other industries that make up the vital diversity that is NY, and very quickly.

Additionally The Garment center BID is mandated by City Council to dedicate millions of sq. ft. to Manufacturing. In this district alone there are 88 factories that will be directly impacted because they use these materials. That is fully 10% of the factories, just in this district. The Garment Center Bid contributes 2.5 million dollars per year to the city to maintain the district - The Factories and those who have devoted their lives to this industry are the heritage of this district.

As one gentleman was able to bring up towards the very end of the hearing, his Manufacturing company which specializes in the targeted materials just received a large development grant (1mil+ ) from the city to buildup and modernize his manufacturing - he already employs 90 people... so now what happens to him and his employees?

City Council should spend their time on things that will improve their constituents lives, affordable housing, commercial rent protections (so that NYC does not become an even bigger faceless Mall) and support the many facets of the garment industry that continues to flourish here. City Council should not be browbeaten and bullied by a small, highly intolerant and well-funded group that kills thousands of animals every year. This maltreatment of adoptable animals, which saves them money to feed their PR campaigns, is very well documented.

I strongly urge you to please contact the City Councils Members who are behind this bill, Whether you Live in NYC or NOT!

Corey Johnson and Linda Rosenthal are the two main proponents - (also Mark Levine of Manhattan and Fernando Cabrera of the Bronx) BTW should you contact Corey via Facebook or Other Social Media be aware that he let us all know yesterday that considers these contacts "Bots" and "Fake News". Neither will acknowledge any contact via Social Media.

You can also go to this site: FURNYC and make your views known.

 

[seattlefromson]

Tried to hem my new trousers without a sewing machine and did a poor job. Screw that. I will take my trousers to the tailor next month. $20 approximately, but oh well. I dislike the fact that a lot of the items in my wardrobe have to be tailored.

 

[gdl203]

lol The Rake. More lol the Alexander Kraft, of all the douchenozzles on this planet, would come to the defense of this bullshit.

I think he's affiliated with them somehow - produces content or something

That the proposed NYC fur ban include sheepskin and hair-on hide for animals that are not themselves banned (leather) is so incredibly dumb.

 

[dieworkwear]

As proposed this Ban will not save a single animal's life or prevent any animal suffering. It does not propose one single remedy towards this goal.

I don't understand how this can be true.

 

[smittycl]

lol The Rake. More lol the Alexander Kraft, of all the douchenozzles on this planet, would come to the defense of this bullshit.

Douchenozzles is now my official favorite word ever! Well said.