Random Fashion Thoughts (Part 3: Style farmer strikes back) - our general discussion thread

[clee1982]

Anyway, Private White VC isn't really like Jomers or Everlane. It can be more rightfully compared to Drakes, Bresciani, and Begg. These places are actual factories. In the past, they made for other brands, but now they have their own lines. My Brooks England jacket, which was designed by Timothy Everest under the briefly lived Criteririon label, was made at the PWVC factory. Christopher Raeburn has also used PWVC for some of his outerwear production.

Many factories in rich post-industrial economies have had to start their own line to 1) smooth out the production schedule and 2) make up for what's increasingly offshored production. As a matter of pure efficiency, land and labor cost in these places are often better allocated to knowledge-intensive services, such as design, law, or research. But for places like Manchester, where PWVC is based, these places also often have rich histories in factory production. Manchester was once known as Cottonpolis because of the number of steam-powered textile mills based here. The mills here, at one point, spun about a third of the world's cotton. IMO, you can like the history of Manchester and its production without being racist.

It's true, however, that PWVC is a very boring line. It's basically classic mens' casualwear with upgraded materials. Some brands tell me that they have a very difficult time getting their customers to try something new. This is especially true for companies who don't trade in capital-f fashion. If they introduce something a little more daring, their customers don't buy it. If they do it too much, people start freaking out.

I don't know who PWVC makes for now, outside of their own label. Maybe it's all their own line at this point. But you know, if you're trading the same boring bomber jacket that literally everyone else makes -- and your customers will kick and scream if you produce anything "fashiony" -- then what can you do.

has Barbour/Bestaff pivoted? When I first saw PW that’s what came to my mind actually (sophisticated Belstaff)

 

[cb200]

The funny thing is when Arcteryx was trying to bring more production back to Canada they couldn’t find enough skilled Canadians. IIRC they sponsored Chinese and Vietnamese workers to come over and help with production.

A skilled work force doesn't just appear in a local population. There needs to be infrastructure to support training and education as well as the work and experience available locally to keep people in the area, as well as to grow the relevant skills needed.

The interesting thing is that there's pressure for exception to normal immigration rules for senior roles in Canadian apparel companies as well. The argument is the same as the factory floor roles, there are not skilled candidates and the current immigration requirements don't reflect the reality of global business needs.

 

[LA Guy]

I've used that quote so often prefacing it with "As great philosopher Mike Tyson once said(...)". The number of stupid ******* ideas and sure not to derail scenarios I hear from supposedly smart people is incredible, it is like they just started existing and this is their first try as going through a few weeks without any expectations of fuckups.

It’s nearly impossible to communicate the concept of hardship or failure to people who have experienced neither.
Affluent Americans brought up on a steady diet of triumphalism are especially immune. This is especially true in an age when the myths of great success have extended beyond the stories of the industrialists of the late 19th and early 20th centuries and to the overnight successes of the early 21st century.

 

[smittycl]

It's true, however, that PWVC is a very boring line. It's basically classic mens' casualwear with upgraded materials.

I have no problem with that really. There’s definitely a market for CM-y outerwear that’s made to a higher standard. Was looking for a nice winter parka and recently stumbled on this Zegna. Brown/Green exterior in wool, goose down, lined with gray wool. Simply amazing. Maybe elegantly boring but <shrug> Not for skiing but for the night out afterward or just bopping around in the winter.

 

[thatboyo]

kobe

 

[gettoasty]

Omg

 

[smittycl]

Just saw that on the news. Thought you guys were referencing something else. Whoa.

 

[zissou]

An infographic I made for my brief research paper on Harris Tweed...

 

[erictheobscure]

I've used that quote so often prefacing it with "As great philosopher Mike Tyson once said(...)". The number of stupid ******* ideas and sure not to derail scenarios I hear from supposedly smart people is incredible, it is like they just started existing and this is their first try as going through a few weeks without any expectations of fuckups.

check out this crazy story that made its way to the philosopher a.j. ayer's wikipedia entry

From 1959 to his retirement in 1978, Sir Alfred held the Wykeham Chair, Professor of Logic at Oxford. He was knighted in 1970. After his retirement, Ayer taught or lectured several times in the United States, including serving as a visiting professor at Bard College in the fall of 1987. At a party that same year held by fashion designer Fernando Sanchez, Ayer, then 77, confronted Mike Tyson who was forcing himself upon the (then) little-known model Naomi Campbell. When Ayer demanded that Tyson stop, the boxer reportedly asked, "Do you know who the **** I am? I'm the heavyweight champion of the world," to which Ayer replied, "And I am the former Wykeham Professor of Logic. We are both pre-eminent in our field. I suggest that we talk about this like rational men". Ayer and Tyson then began to talk, allowing Campbell to slip out.

 

[noob in 89]

You should quit tinkering with heteronormativity in the juvenilia of Phillis Wheatley or whatever and just compile these funny anecdotes into a nice coffee table book. That Zizek story was gold.

 

[erictheobscure]

man i'm not an americanist but i bet i could churn out some dreck about phyllis wheatley and heteronormativity in a few weeks--thanks for the suggestion

 

[verver]

Awful news about Kobe, his 13 yr old daughter, and the others on the helicopters

 

[cocostella]

The recent photos of him and his daughter with big smiles on their faces are gut wrenching.

 

[LA Guy]

I’m at my daughters’ gymnastics meet and it’s a big topic of conversation. I lived in LA 1997-2003, went to Lakers games, etc... during that Phil Jackson Kobe/Shaq dynasty. The Bleacher seats were insane. RIP one of the greats.

 

[jet]

Today is a tough, tough day.