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Random Fashion Thoughts (Part 3: Style farmer strikes back) - our general discussion thread

worakl

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PARIS-MENS-STREETSTYLE-DAY2%25252054.jpg



yes it's a bit contrived, but at least these old folks are really going for it:

The stark contrast in how badass it looks on his grandparents compared to when you scroll down and see the pale, malnourished, expressionless models is quite something.
 

gdl203

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They're the #1 king of BS. Everything about their pseudo changes in business model is BS
 

gdl203

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Didn’t they also make a big deal of limiting the distribution of their products to PW website plus one or two ‘trusted’ 3rd party distributors?
Yea - why can't they just make nice clothes and stop coming up with all that BS all the time
 

smittycl

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I can’t stand PW and not simply because of their BS marketing ploys. Their designs are so lifeless and they seem to create the most boring versions of classic models like field jackets, bombers, etc.
As a confirmed boring person I take great umbrage at your categorization of PW as boring. Are they disingenuous? Well, clearly... ?
 
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smittycl

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I do like their linen field jacket and tried to get the wool “shacket” but it sold out.

Anyway, yeah, their buy at retail schtick is so busted.
 

LA Guy

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Keystone/Keystone is very rare. i think that I've only seen MRSP being keystone retail for RRL and one more brand that is more private.

For DTC, I mean, the cost cannot possibly simply be manufacturing. For VC funded startups, I have seen marketing costs take up as much as 80% of the operating budget... because... exponential growth. I don't think that PW spends that much, but who knows. Also, they have build an infrastructure to do retail. You need a fulfillment system, inventory control, retail employees, etc etc... It's not as though you can sell right out of your factory. The only people I've seen realy minimize their retail costs is for operations who have brokered some sort of deal to dropship from the factory. And even then...

Oh, and a wholesale brand going DTC is the brand equivalent of politicians stepping back to spend time with their families. It's usually a move that is forced on them.
 

Maxwellll

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I remember when PW made that big fuss about new pricing strategy, no sales and pairing back retail a couple years back. Though, at the same time it seemed they also paired back on a lot of the more interesting stuff they were making and I sure not coincidentally, cut down to the most basic and cheaper to make output. Then eventually some of their older more fancy pieces started creeping back (melton flight jacket, overcoats etc), probably by some customer demand and now even the end of season sales are necessary for them again. Seems clear that whatever new project with marketing spiel they had in mind didnt quite work out and they had product sitting going stale in a warehouse somewhere and have had to save face by not going back on 'the big idea'

But I think a lot of these smaller scale British brands that insist on UK or at least mostly UK manufacture have been struggling, PW, Grenfell, Mackintosh, Thomas Pink, Margaret Howell, E.Tautz, Turnbull & Asser, Cabourn and so on, even Drake's struggling before changing things up a bit. At least Mackintosh and Margaret Howell have a big presence in Japan to fall back on.
 

gdl203

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LA Guy

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I remember when PW made that big fuss about new pricing strategy, no sales and pairing back retail a couple years back. Though, at the same time it seemed they also paired back on a lot of the more interesting stuff they were making and I sure not coincidentally, cut down to the most basic and cheaper to make output. Then eventually some of their older more fancy pieces started creeping back (melton flight jacket, overcoats etc), probably by some customer demand and now even the end of season sales are necessary for them again. Seems clear that whatever new project with marketing spiel they had in mind didnt quite work out and they had product sitting going stale in a warehouse somewhere and have had to save face by not going back on 'the big idea'

But I think a lot of these smaller scale British brands that insist on UK or at least mostly UK manufacture have been struggling, PW, Grenfell, Mackintosh, Thomas Pink, Margaret Howell, E.Tautz, Turnbull & Asser, Cabourn and so on, even Drake's struggling before changing things up a bit. At least Mackintosh and Margaret Howell have a big presence in Japan to fall back on.
To paraphrase one of the best boxers of all time: "Everyone has a gameplan until they get punched in the face."
 

Phrost

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Hmm has there been brands, big or small, that have successfully transitioned from being in retailers to direct to consumer?

I would think social media would help in that regard. But I bet the challenge is cultivating an audience willing to buy your stuff.

There’s so much stuff out there that it’s probably difficult to stand out and differentiate yourself, especially in clothing.
 

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