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Random Fashion Thoughts (Part 3: Style farmer strikes back) - our general discussion thread

Nyarlathotep

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Large parts of Tisci's "Tempest" were just awful, the patchwork puffer shirt/coat hybrid and the shoes for example. The striped duffels were nice, not 3k nice though. All in all, a mixed reception.
 

1969

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I'm scared to venture out to other threads on this forum. Anyone got a solid and affordable face skin care routine they can reccomend? I've been lucky and had good skin most my life. But now that I'm past my 30s, my strategy of i sometimes use my shampoo to wash my face isn't really cutting it... I guess I fall into the dry, not oily, skin type.
The Acid Mantle
 

ShoutOutsFoMyBo

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It does suck, but it would have been classy for them to have done the usual "Thank you for all the years of your patronage" emails, rather than simply up and disappearing. It's not as though no one knew what seemed inevitable.

Hopefully everyone at the company, from the owners on down, rebounds from this.
“it says here on your resume that you’ve been.. selling hobo clothes for the last seven years? could you go a little more into detail on that?”
 

sinnedk

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It’s there, but closed. Only online now.
Online closed as well.

I think unionmade was a cool store.

My best guess is that they just weren’t as popular with the local folks to justify a storefront. I wouldn’t be surprised if those guys come back in a form of an online shop.

I honestly don’t know how Maas Stacks and The Archive stay in business in sf.
 

noob in 89

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Are there any stores that mix-in more reasonably priced brands with their $600 hobo jeans? (Something like the inverse of JCrew, which tosses brands like Barbour and Alden into the mix...). It’s like these stores would rather crumble than tarnish whatever image they think they’re projecting.
 

dieworkwear

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Are there any stores that mix-in more reasonably priced brands with their $600 hobo jeans? (Something like the inverse of JCrew, which tosses brands like Barbour and Alden into the mix...). It’s like these stores would rather crumble than tarnish whatever image they think they’re projecting.
That was basically Unionmade, no? They had brands like Alex Mill and Gitman Vintage.
 

noob in 89

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Ah, I dunno, I must be a plebe, then. GBV wacky Polo-like print shirts are about $250, no? Same with Alex Mill (though that seems like a YOOX brand destined for deep discounts).

I guess they’re reasonable compared to Kapital.
 

dieworkwear

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Ah, I dunno, I must be a plebe, then. GBV wacky Polo-like print shirts are about $250, no? Same with Alex Mill (though that seems like a YOOX brand destined for deep discounts).

I guess they’re reasonable compared to Kapital.
Gitman has some expensive stuff, but they also have things like $150 shirts. It's not cheap, but I don't think it's unreasonable compared to fashion prices. Walking around San Francisco, any of the more "basic" fashion stores will basically charge you $150 for a button-up (e.g. Steven Alan).

I think Unionmade suffered from different things, I don't think it's just about product selection. I think they expanded a little too much during the heritage wave with other locations. Then they closed those shops. Then the heritage thing sorta died and there are tons of more options even for that Americana look, which induces comparison shopping (the death knell for any store, IMO). Then they had a forced retrofit, which pushed them into a smaller location and made them lose out on a lot of fourth-quarter sales in 2017.

To give you a sense of what that retrofit meant, they turned a small profit in 2016 but lost over $640,000 in 2017. The company already had issues going into 2016 with the LA store closures and heritage trend dying, but that retrofit was killer.

Personally, I think to get out of that comparison shopping loop, you have to move upmarket. People complain about rising fashion prices, but they simply don't pay full price for mid-tier goods -- they constantly comparison shop and shop on sale. So it's little wonder that tier is dying. I imagine Unionmade would have done better if they didn't expand into LA, weren't forced into a retrofit, and moved more upscale as the heritage trend died, rather than trying to squeeze a bit more out of Alex Mill type lines. To Sinnedk's point, that's exactly why shops like Maas & Stacks seem to do fine -- because they're small, boutiquey, and only trade in uber high-end goods that don't allow you to comparison shop across different tiers (e.g. comparing flat-front chinos from J. Crew to H&M).
 

Landau

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Gitman has some expensive stuff, but they also have things like $150 shirts. It's not cheap, but I don't think it's unreasonable compared to fashion prices. Walking around San Francisco, any of the more "basic" fashion stores will basically charge you $150 for a button-up (e.g. Steven Alan).

I think Unionmade suffered from different things, I don't think it's just about product selection. I think they expanded a little too much during the heritage wave with other locations. Then they closed those shops. Then the heritage thing sorta died and there are tons of more options even for that Americana look, which induces comparison shopping (the death knell for any store, IMO). Then they had a forced retrofit, which pushed them into a smaller location and made them lose out on a lot of fourth-quarter sales in 2017.

To give you a sense of what that retrofit meant, they turned a small profit in 2016 but lost over $640,000 in 2017. The company already had issues going into 2016 with the LA store closures and heritage trend dying, but that retrofit was killer.

Personally, I think to get out of that comparison shopping loop, you have to move upmarket. People complain about rising fashion prices, but they simply don't pay full price for mid-tier goods -- they constantly comparison shop and shop on sale. So it's little wonder that tier is dying. I imagine Unionmade would have done better if they didn't expand into LA, weren't forced into a retrofit, and moved more upscale as the heritage trend died, rather than trying to squeeze a bit more out of Alex Mill type lines. To Sinnedk's point, that's exactly why shops like Maas & Stacks seem to do fine -- because they're small, boutiquey, and only trade in uber high-end goods that don't allow you to comparison shop across different tiers (e.g. comparing flat-front chinos from J. Crew to H&M).
Isn't that the story for every store cut in the cloth of Unionmade? When I think of Carson Street or Gentry or any of the other boutiques that were popular when I first started lurking, they all did fine but they all inevitably over-extended during the peak of their own fashion cycles and it massacred their sales.

On the other hand, moving to a higher end brandlist is difficult as well. Unless you get into some truly niche stuff, most stuff can be comparison shopped and eagerly sat on by hoards of voracious StyleFarmers waiting on Black Friday or Boxing Day. its kind of inherently hard to scale when individual pieces cost a ton even at whole sale, and especially in a crowded fashion forward city like SF, it can be hard to differentiate yourself from the other stores in the neighborhood. On the other hand, its been done by smaller stores pretty well (Snake Oil comes to mind; I distinctly remember them being an old school-y only carry Red Wings and 3Sixteen/Rogue Territory/Schott in a closet kind of place, and then they started to carry Flathead leather, Luchese, Viberg, RRL, etc etc).
 

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