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Random Fashion Thoughts (Part 3: Style farmer strikes back) - our general discussion thread

Zamb

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This is patently incorrect though, at least in some instances. Let's take an apples to apples comparison. Gloves typically come in two forms: machine sewn gloves, and hand sewn "Sportif" gloves. The sewing on machine sewn gloves is considerably more robust than the running stitches used in the sportif gloves. I mean, all of my gloves have hand stitching, because I like the look, but I really try to not delude myself that the stitches are not more liable to fall out, require mending, etc... than a pair of machine sewn gloves.
but I think that this kind of comparison is a bit unfair though.
I don't know about any other artisanal designer but I want to make products that are incredibly durable and well made. it is exactly the reason why I use certain kind of fabrics and processes.

For example, we never use less than tex 40 thread to sew any garment, unless for overlocking purposes.
the fabrics I use for T-shirts are not traditional T-shirt fabric but something I found that does not change color and does not lose its shape with time.
I train my staff to approach the work with the intent of making the most durable item possible.
I also understand where you are coming from because ive seen a lot of shoddy work from some brands
For example a customer came to my store in Sunday to pick up some items, was wearing a shorts from a very revered brand I wont name. the shorts was made from linen and lined in cotton, but the crotch was already ripping after only 3 wears and bottons falling off.


The simple solution o prevent those two things were
1. to line the fabric BEFORE construction and sew the two layers as one garment to prevent the thin linen from bearing all the stress
2. The buttons were sewn on with a chainstitch button tacking machine, where there is no way of tying the thread off to prevent it from falling apart. Buttons should either be sewn on by hand (more costly, but more durable) or with a lockstitch button tacker
 

Zamb

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@LA Guy
this is almost like in the late 90's and early 00, when brands like Margiela, Ann and the Belgians were becoming popular, they were doing deconstruction. there was a thoughtful intelligence to it that those who were sophisticated enough to understand it got, but then came a slew of "designers" who just did some ripped and shredded crap and called it deconstruction...……...I used to laugh.

Its similar now to a slew of brands who came on the Paris scene making black clothing and calling it "artisanal" or "goth" and when you saw it up close there was nothing interesting to it at all./
 

LA Guy

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I’m getting that you’ve come to realize that “should be” and “what the reality is” are sadly not equal. Or I might say your description of artisanal is more the de facto definition than my ideal interpretation. Consider my bubble burst.

Le sigh. ?
I don't think that it's a bad bubble burst. At least, for me, it was never a bubble burst. I never looked to "artisanal" makers for their workmanship, but I suppose that I was never a "quality" junkie, either. I liked the ideas and the treatments and the specialness of some of these pieces. I love the weird, appeals to a few people specialness of the pieces by small makers.

I also love me some iconic pieces, and the Hermes and Cartiers of the world have been batting ones out of the park for over a century. I marvel at the workmanship and just the great design of my Hermes Chaine D'Ancre, for example, as much as I do my rustic pieces by Tobias Wistensen.

There area few currently independent makers that I feel have a broad enough appeal to possibly become a "brand". Good Art, for me, is chief among these. The pieces have that rare combination of impeccable craftmanship, imagination, and personality that could, if the cards fall just right, become a brand that goes on long after the original maker is gone, not that I think he has any intention of kicking the bucket.
 

zissou

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@zissou are you bored of your leder yellow shirt yet? Can you sell it to me? Thank you
Which one, the maize linen with the displaced pocket (yes, because it is a bad color on me), or the brighter maize yellow brushed cotton (no, because I love it)?
 

UrbanComposition

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Actually, now that I think about it, would it be fair to say that large houses (such as the ones you mentioned) use artisanal methods? Mouth-watering videos of St. Crispin's, for example, laud the old school method of shoemaking, even though they are a commercial entity. I'm sure Hermes, Cartier, and many other new and old brands would pat their backs for the same reason. Fortunately they have a fantastic design team who takes artisanal methods and applies them to appeal to the masses. Therefore...

Artisanal = good. Artisanal + good design team = better. Newbie trying his hand at "new" and "different" methods of construction = hack.
 

Benesyed

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I just googled Good Art. Reminds me of a more pretentious King baby
 

g transistor

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Which one, the maize linen with the displaced pocket (yes, because it is a bad color on me), or the brighter maize yellow brushed cotton (no, because I love it)?

The bright brushed cotton one. The NMWA thread title really is true. Hit me up if you ever stop loving it— the color is my jam.
 

emptym

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...
Know there was a pretty lively discussion regarding carry-ons a few days ago, but any recommendation for duffle/weekend bags? Will be traveling with it pretty frequently, so want something that won't get absolutely beat up.
I think this was missed. I like anything Mismo for regular travel and the North Face base camp duffle for camping, etc.
Mods, please add to list of potential custom titles for Smitty.
I like "Assault Pack."
 

smittycl

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A good leather bag will last quite a while.
 

gettoasty

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FWIW my new 40L backpack did come in. How long does the straps take to soften up? Definitely dope to be able to stuff it with a bunch of clothes.
 

dfagdfsh

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@Parker yea the son looks great in the show -- wears lots of Rick and Ann D. It's also his personal wardrobe -- the show has such a small budget that they can't afford costuming.

The mom's wadrobe is also pretty designer-heavy, but IIRC they either beg the clothes from designers or find them in consignment shops.
 

dfagdfsh

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Tracy Morgan also wears an oversized Rick leather in Season 2 of 30 rock
 

LA Guy

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I just googled Good Art. Reminds me of a more pretentious King baby
On the surface, there are similarities. Both make chunky jewelry with a defined motif, but there is where the similarities end. The difference between a good aesthetics and tacky aesthetics is difficult to pinpoint, but it's there nonetheless. It's like trying to differentiate between Hermes and Michael Kors. The differences at the margins make all of the difference.

A lot of their earlier stuff was a bit on the mall goth side though. It wasn't until they pivoted their brand and aligned themselves with good designers and retailers that it really started to shine. I bought it before that pivot, and it was definitely a case where you had to do some good buying.
 

Benesyed

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On the surface, there are similarities. Both make chunky jewelry with a defined motif, but there is where the similarities end. The difference between a good aesthetics and tacky aesthetics is difficult to pinpoint, but it's there nonetheless. It's like trying to differentiate between Hermes and Michael Kors. The differences at the margins make all of the difference.

A lot of their earlier stuff was a bit on the mall goth side though. It wasn't until they pivoted their brand and aligned themselves with good designers and retailers that it really started to shine. I bought it before that pivot, and it was definitely a case where you had to do some good buying.

Whatever you say :alien:
 

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