Random Fashion Thoughts (Part 3: Style farmer strikes back) - our general discussion thread

[dieworkwear]

Alright, I started a thread. The "prompt" is pretty loose, and I'm happy to just have it be a loose space that develops organically, depending on how people see fit.

SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

This is a discussion thread for SWD members interested in tailoring. The term "tailoring" here is used pretty loosely. Since most clothes are cut and sewn, many can be described as "tailored." I'm using the term here to loosely refer to suits and sport coats. A sport coat is anything with...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Bromley]

is it ok if i invite @bourbonbasted?

 

[dieworkwear]

is it ok if i invite @bourbonbasted?

Do you mean to that thread? I don't see why not.

(I realize this might be an inside joke that I'm not getting)

 

[Nyarlathotep]

It would be nice to have a tailoring thread with no chance of seeing the word “slovenly.”

"slubby" also

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Does buying EG Bedford and EG pants in same fabric count as suit

I'd call that a 'set-up', which is a term I've mainly seen used in Japan, although by some stores and sites in the west too (there's a little more definitional detail in the new thread).

 

[RedVelvetWounds]

This is the t-shirt. This is from another band, but I'm unsure who the money goes to since they are on a "indefinite hiatus". I guess it's still them.

I dig that Elder graphic. I listened to them a ton in 2015 when Lore was released. Such a cozy record.

 

[bourbonbasted]

is it ok if i invite @bourbonbasted?

It's an honor to be nominated.

 

[Bromley]

Do you mean to that thread? I don't see why not.

(I realize this might be an inside joke that I'm not getting)

I was just putting back some daquiris and got excited abt the future of The Discourse.

 

[Krish the Fish]

Curious, are there any SWD guys who like and wear tailored clothing, but just don't go to CM because they don't like that side of the forum? If so, does your taste in tailored clothing run traditional/ CM-ish or is it more SWD-ish?

Would it make sense to have an SWD thread on tailored clothing? Is there even a way to discuss this topic? Seems like every brand offers some version of a tailored jacket, depending on how you define "tailoring"

This resonates with me. I like tailored clothes, maybe somewhat traditional, but this side of the forum is where I spend my time on SF

 

[zissou]

I have the Old Towns "plains" as my (almost) one pant. High rise, slightly tapered, fairly wide but with a normal/flattering top block. The cut goes with everything. I have them in black canvas, cord, denim, and Irish linen. I even wore a pair (in linen) for my wedding a couple of years ago.

I'd really like to try a pair of these. If there's one thing that has become certain, it's that I strongly prefer a full cut trouser. I've started making my own, but heavier fabrics like cord and moleskin are a little trickier. I wish Old Town posted measurements, though.

 

[sipang]

@zissou With you on the full cut life. What makes it trickier with heavier fabrics? Sturdier construction needed?

I was surprised by the absence of meaurements @ Old Town, could've sworn there used to be charts. I'd be curious to know the leg opening of the 'plains' if you get a chance @Superb0bo

 

[zissou]

I pattern trousers for ~10-12oz denim/chino, typically. Working with a heavier fabric usually requires grading the pattern a little larger so they fit the same, and it is a little trickier with the thread tensions for the machines. Heavier fabrics don't drape as easily, so there is more likelihood that something could look off if the pattern is inaccurate.

 

[DoubleDouble]

I was surprised by the absence of meaurements @ Old Town, could've sworn there used to be charts. I'd be curious to know the leg opening of the 'plains' if you get a chance @Superb0bo

Same here… but, from the website:

Please be aware that new customers wishing to place an order will need to visit the workshop and try a sample to ensure the correct fit. We are able to do sleeve and trousers to length. Appointments are available on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Seems like things have changed?

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Seems like things have changed?

They've also cut back in terms of the numbers of different models of jackets they offer. But it seems bizarre if they are suffering in the pandemic to demand in-person ordering. Who the hell, even in the UK, is going to trek all the way out to where they are? Maybe they can't meet demand and they don't want more customers (especially since this all doesn't seem to apply to Japanese orders - they have a special rep in Kyoto now).

 

[Superb0bo]

They've also cut back in terms of the numbers of different models of jackets they offer. But it seems bizarre if they are suffering in the pandemic to demand in-person ordering. Who the hell, even in the UK, is going to trek all the way out to where they are? Maybe they can't meet demand and they don't want more customers (especially since this all doesn't seem to apply to Japanese orders - they have a special rep in Kyoto now).

Yea, as I understand it, they are generally downsizing since several of their seamstresses retired (and apparently no new ones are to be found in the area). I regret not getting some of the now discontinued jacket styles. And there are multiple styles from their archives that Id love to see made again.

To the best of my knowledge, they never had any measurements online, and don't expect too detailed info if you email either. It's just one lovely lady doing all email orders and correspondence.

Generally, I feel like the things fit as you would expect, and I pretty much take my regular size in everything (except the pull-over shirt where I size up, my regular size was too tight in the shoulders).