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Random Fashion Thoughts (Part 3: Style farmer strikes back) - our general discussion thread

YoungM

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Curious, are there any SWD guys who like and wear tailored clothing, but just don't go to CM because they don't like that side of the forum? If so, does your taste in tailored clothing run traditional/ CM-ish or is it more SWD-ish?

Would it make sense to have an SWD thread on tailored clothing? Is there even a way to discuss this topic? Seems like every brand offers some version of a tailored jacket, depending on how you define "tailoring"
I was just thinking about something similar after reading some of the Crompton pocket square thread, which reminded me of a comment about the WAYWT Top 100 being basically a NMWA ad.

Ironically, despite all the furor around the pandemic killing off the suit, it feels like big swaths of streetwear are embracing items of clothing that, eight or ten years ago, I would have thought were distinctly old-fashioned. Some of this may be colored by my own viewpoint - I'm closing in on thirty, and finally settling into a more traditional white-collar career. However, it feels like it hasn't been this natural, easy, and comfortable to wear a sport coat or pleated trousers as a young guy.

It feels like it's permeated through a variety of "genres," from the sultry Lemaire stuff to the understated luxury of Stoffa to ALD and Drake's. Some of this feels related to 90s (or late 80s?) revivalism - I've been watching Seinfeld for the first time, and it is genuinely surprising how often I see a Jerry fit and think "I would happily wear that".

Obviously, I know brands have been making blazers forever, so I'm curious if others feel this way. Having spent much of the early and mid 2010s primarily interested in avant-garde stuff, this has been a really enjoyable change of pace, even if I feel less confident in putting together, say, sportcoat and trouser combos. For that, Die!Workwear has been invaluable.
 

whorishconsumer

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Curious, are there any SWD guys who like and wear tailored clothing, but just don't go to CM because they don't like that side of the forum? If so, does your taste in tailored clothing run traditional/ CM-ish or is it more SWD-ish?

Would it make sense to have an SWD thread on tailored clothing? Is there even a way to discuss this topic? Seems like every brand offers some version of a tailored jacket, depending on how you define "tailoring"
I've have a troubled history with tailored clothing and have moved toward and away it many times over. Recently I've turned back toward it, but keep myself fairly grounded in, I guess, SWD, but really just boring casual. So, for example, I have a bunch of Gitman BDs as opposed to a closet of Charvet, and I'm more likely to tuck them into jeans or nice cords than I am to wear slacks, although I have recently been mixing it up with very high-rise cotton trousers (from Stoffa and another pair I just got from Berg & Berg). As of today I only own two sport coats that really fit me, both recently picked up from Armoury/Drop 93 and one's a Summer jacket. So then it's a matter of sweaters and layering. For shoes I'm wearing Aldens, some kind of loafer or maybe CPs.

In fact, my dress style these days is pretty heavily informed by Frans Boone's take on tailoring, which is relatively casual.
 

dalevy

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I would be interested in this, but wouldn’t this be or couldnt this be part of already existing threads?

I have some traditional CM left, Steed navy suit, a few sport coats, a few of my best fitting trousers, around 5 ties, a couple pairs of dress shoes, after selling a bunch during the pandemic and moving from a law firm to a tech company. If I were to dress up for something nowadays and bought tailored stuff for that, I think it would be more SWD ish. Not sure if this is what you’re thinking of, but at the end of last year I got a tailored cord jacket matching easy pants from Document. I don’t know where I would go in the Bay Area where I would dress up in a formal CM suit, and less likely a casual CM suit or sport jacket. I haven’t thought too much about it since I still don’t really go anywhere except to get takeout or take the kids to some outdoor area. Maybe I would get a CM happy suit for going out someplace but I would probably also look at what I think you’re describing.
 

gs77

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Curious, are there any SWD guys who like and wear tailored clothing, but just don't go to CM because they don't like that side of the forum? If so, does your taste in tailored clothing run traditional/ CM-ish or is it more SWD-ish?

Would it make sense to have an SWD thread on tailored clothing? Is there even a way to discuss this topic? Seems like every brand offers some version of a tailored jacket, depending on how you define "tailoring"
I wear CM suits exclusively when walking the streets and going out and that in relaxed non-CM way. No tie, ps sometimes for fun, mostly with polo or rollneck instead of shirt, often even with sneakers or some boots, in summer mostly without socks. Even stuff like opera, ballet or classical music concert (watching, not performing :) ) I feel much better without all the traditional stuff.
But, I do like suits. If I wear SC, it's usually with jeans, not with dress trousers.
I don't know... there is just something about a suit...
On CM side, it's a lot of rules and dogmas, some bubble of dos and donts that just does not resonate with me. Too much browns and greens and country-ish styles... etc etc

I'm not sure there is a way to discuss the topic. Try...
 

King Calder

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Last edited:

jaaz16

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Curious, are there any SWD guys who like and wear tailored clothing, but just don't go to CM because they don't like that side of the forum? If so, does your taste in tailored clothing run traditional/ CM-ish or is it more SWD-ish?

Would it make sense to have an SWD thread on tailored clothing? Is there even a way to discuss this topic? Seems like every brand offers some version of a tailored jacket, depending on how you define "tailoring"
I’d lurk for sure and maybe even chime in occasionally. But I will say that anytime I consider dipping more into tailoring myself I get a rush of anxiety. Something about getting measurements just right and buying cloth and bespoke and the cost of all that is just not super appealing. I like this side of the forum so much better because there’s more flexibility in fit; doesn’t have to be just right or fall exactly the same way. The leather jacket thread (where I also lurk occasionally) is a good example: they almost look wrong when they’re too perfect.

Wasn’t there a thread from a while back that was focused on soft tailoring? I just remember there being a lot of Stoffa pics. I think it was around the time of the whole “oxfords with chinos” kerfluffle.
 

sipang

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Curious, are there any SWD guys who like and wear tailored clothing, but just don't go to CM because they don't like that side of the forum? If so, does your taste in tailored clothing run traditional/ CM-ish or is it more SWD-ish?

Would it make sense to have an SWD thread on tailored clothing? Is there even a way to discuss this topic? Seems like every brand offers some version of a tailored jacket, depending on how you define "tailoring"
I sort of do. I think I'm a SWD guy that also happens to really like the stuffier side of traditional tailoring. I'm rarely completely on board with the way the stuff is worn on the other side so I'd like to think there's some droplets of SWD sensibility left in the way I personally approach it but that's probably at least xx% self delusion.

I enjoy browsing CM but I can't deal with all the fussiness and nitpicks (to me) which almost invariably seem to focus on the wrong things, lots of missing the forest for the trees (again, to me). I also think the perfect fit is a spectrum and it's costumes all the way down so many of the usual hang ups seem completely irrelevant. If nothing else I'd say that's where the SWDness kicks in.

Maybe paradoxically, I don't really care for the casual unstructured stuff (Boglioli etc) or designer tailoring and I don't like paring tailoring with jeans or tees or sneakers. I don't mind mixing classic tailoring with SWD items if it works (big pants etc) though.
 

kjb

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Curious, are there any SWD guys who like and wear tailored clothing, but just don't go to CM because they don't like that side of the forum? If so, does your taste in tailored clothing run traditional/ CM-ish or is it more SWD-ish?

Would it make sense to have an SWD thread on tailored clothing? Is there even a way to discuss this topic? Seems like every brand offers some version of a tailored jacket, depending on how you define "tailoring"
I’d definitely be interested in this. I can’t do the CM side, it’s just too much. I posted a suit fit question on the SWD side (in this thread I think?) some months ago just because the CM side gives me too much stress.
 

hammerhead_corvette

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Curious, are there any SWD guys who like and wear tailored clothing, but just don't go to CM because they don't like that side of the forum? If so, does your taste in tailored clothing run traditional/ CM-ish or is it more SWD-ish?

Would it make sense to have an SWD thread on tailored clothing? Is there even a way to discuss this topic? Seems like every brand offers some version of a tailored jacket, depending on how you define "tailoring"
Maybe a thread about mixing tailored clothing in with street wear or casual tailoring. I just bought a sport coat I am hoping to mix into my regular rotation.

Plus, isn't SEH Kelly just tailored clothing for the SWD side? I hope to buy more SEHK this year, great stuff.
 

StanleyVanBuren

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Hey, do you guys remember?

This one time I bought a vintage 1980s YSL suit on ebay for fun. It had strong shoulder padding, a low gorge, low button stance, long length, flared skirt, and wide-legged trousers. I went to the CM side of the forum to ask for advice on how I should get it tailored and what followed was 20+ pages of groupthink posturing about how I needed to buy a soft-shouldered Neopolitan-style suit instead, and when I finally made it clear that I wasn't actually asking about how to make my 1980s YSL ebay find fit into a corporate environment, they all just went quiet or said "well we don't have any idea what to tell you then."

Good times.
 

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