RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

[CMT1]

Limited edition star spangled ding dongs, eh? Sounds tasty. But not as tasty as those lovely boat shoes. Happy fourth, man.

You too my main man fifty grand, I hope you and the family are well and having an awesome, happy and safe holiday weekend.

 

[Reiver]

Hi, wondering if anyone on here can offer me any insight into the Blake chukka models?

I have no previous experience with Rancourt but and mainly have English shoes like Trickers and C&J so far. A couple of Red Wings too.

What is the quality like on these? Are they built to last? I don’t know much about Blake resoles, are they viable further down the line?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[mscb]

Re Rancourt Ranger mocs ..
Are the the RLH aspen soles worth the extra cost over the camp moc soles?

 

[ccpl14]

Re Rancourt Ranger mocs ..
Are the the RLH aspen soles worth the extra cost over the camp moc soles?

In my opinion, yes.

 

[ajd578]

Re Rancourt Ranger mocs ..
Are the the RLH aspen soles worth the extra cost over the camp moc soles?

I've had a pair of camp mocs for a couple years with Rancourt's branded camp soles, and just got a new pair with the Aspen soles. I would say I'm not completely sold on the Aspen. They look good, but they're heavy, and there's no obvious increase in comfort.

 

[Bakes11771]

Yeah, they are heavier, but I appreciate the additional cushion that they provide. I think it probably depends on what you're going for in the particular makeup. If you want something lighter and less substantial, go with the camp. If you want something more comfortable at the cost of lightness and sleekness, aspen.

Edit: I think there is a thinner RLH sole that you can get, which would bring you somewhere in the middle, but I forget what it's called.

 

[takashi78]

How much do the unlined natural cxl really stretch?

Would you guys go down a width to compensate for the stretch?

 

[Erikdayo]

How much do the unlined natural cxl really stretch?

Would you guys go down a width to compensate for the stretch?

Compared to my bulldog eastports my cxl loafers feel a little loose, but not too loose. I imagine I will need to install some tongue pads eventually to keep the instep tight enough. It will depend on your feet, preferences, etc to determine what is best for you. I went down 1/2 size but kept D width. Going down to B width seems like it could be a little painful and perhaps look weird with my feet potentially hanging over the edge.

 

[Erikdayo]

Speaking of fit issues I have been having quite the adventure with Rancourt loafers. It appears that due to my low volume low instep feet I might not be able to wear their suede models.

My brown bulldog Eastports fit perfectly. My color 8 CXL Beefrolls fit well enough though noticeably more loose. As they stretch I may end up needing tongue pads, but we will wait and see on that. The Beefrolls don't conform to my feet as well around the collar. That might be partly a CXL thing. I believe it's more so the Beefroll design + my low volume low instep feet.

Now when it comes to lined suede Weltlines they fall right off. I sent them back to Rancourt, and they determined that the pair was lasted correctly. The lined suede just doesn't seem to fit as tightly on the last. So they happened to have Northport beefrolls in stock in my size which are unlined suede. Rancourt offered to send them to me as a test to nail down the fit issues. Those seemingly fit a little better than the lined suede Weltlines but are also far too loose for my feet. Loose enough that I can slide them on and off without a shoe horn. Not ideal for loafers. Were I walking around in them they would end up falling off quickly.

I have two pairs of Rancourt loafers on order that will need to be changed because they were both lined suede. It's a bit of a shame because I really wanted flint kudu, but fit comes first. Awaiting to hear back about the leather options and whether they think the Weltline design is a potential issue for me or if it was purely the lined suede that made the lined suede Weltlines so loose. Tan bulldog is likely one of the two leathers I will go with.

Their customer service is excellent if anyone is wondering. I feel bad that the fit issues have become such a hassle on both ends. I thought things would be smooth sailing based on the previous 5 pairs of Rancourt handsewns I had tried. Seems I was wrong.

 

[Bakes11771]

Second the thought of going down .5 but keeping typical width.

They will be uncomfortably tight at first, but stretch to fit.

 

[Luscombe]

Second the thought of going down .5 but keeping typical width.

They will be uncomfortably tight at first, but stretch to fit.

I am on the fence about sizing down .5 I recently received a Downeast and Acadia, both 10.5B. My Brannock is 11B based upon my big toe knuckle and where my foot naturally breaks.
My 11B rangers and Clymer 2's have both stretched such that the upper 1/4's touch and they still are not tight. I have to wear thick socks in both plus some thinner inserts and tongue guards. With these accessories, they fit well and are very comfortable.

The 10.5B's fit great but after wearing the Downeast pair all day, my feet hurt across the arches. Long walks (3 miles) in them are out. They are ok for around the house wear and limited standing time. I am still experimenting with the other pairs. The Downeast have very thick leather and may not flex or stretch as much as the typical CXL.

The 10.8B Acadias are not an 800 last so that may affect the fit. They are snug, which I like and I have not taken any long walks in them.

My 11B Essex are lined so they have not stretched like my Rangers and Clymers

As a test, I bought an 11B Acadia and 10.5B Ranger on the crowdfunding campaign to compare the fit. I love the shoes, just having a challenge dialing in the fit. I have always had this problem with my shoes so it is not unexpected.

Do love the shoes and they are worth the effort.

 

[Bakes11771]

I am on the fence about sizing down .5 I recently received a Downeast and Acadia, both 10.5B. My Brannock is 11B based upon my big toe knuckle and where my foot naturally breaks.
My 11B rangers and Clymer 2's have both stretched such that the upper 1/4's touch and they still are not tight. I have to wear thick socks in both plus some thinner inserts and tongue guards. With these accessories, they fit well and are very comfortable.

The 10.5B's fit great but after wearing the Downeast pair all day, my feet hurt across the arches. Long walks (3 miles) in them are out. They are ok for around the house wear and limited standing time. I am still experimenting with the other pairs. The Downeast have very thick leather and may not flex or stretch as much as the typical CXL.

The 10.8B Acadias are not an 800 last so that may affect the fit. They are snug, which I like and I have not taken any long walks in them.

My 11B Essex are lined so they have not stretched like my Rangers and Clymers

As a test, I bought an 11B Acadia and 10.5B Ranger on the crowdfunding campaign to compare the fit. I love the shoes, just having a challenge dialing in the fit. I have always had this problem with my shoes so it is not unexpected.

Do love the shoes and they are worth the effort.

All of the above mentioned are CXL? My advice pertains to CXL only.

 

[Luscombe]

All of the above mentioned are CXL? My advice pertains to CXL only.

No, not all. The Downeast are Virginia 10oz leather and the Acadias are Bison. The Essex have a liner.

I think when sizing unlined CXL, your advice of down 1/2 size is ok. Consider though the flexibility or stiffness of the soles. downsizing with flexible soles is fine. I think if the soles are stiff or leather, they might not bend/break where your foot wants them to break.

 

[takashi78]

Compared to my bulldog eastports my cxl loafers feel a little loose, but not too loose. I imagine I will need to install some tongue pads eventually to keep the instep tight enough. It will depend on your feet, preferences, etc to determine what is best for you. I went down 1/2 size but kept D width. Going down to B width seems like it could be a little painful and perhaps look weird with my feet potentially hanging over the edge.

Thanks for the advice.
I have high instep and flat feet like most asians do. And also wide feet.

So i am more concerned about width rather than length.
I usually wear a E-width but Rancourt adviced a D-width saying it will stretch out.

 

[Erikdayo]

There is a happy ending for me and Rancourt suede loafer fit. Flint Kudu Eastports. They did a great job on this custom order.

This suede really transforms in different lighting. Absolutely love it.

These are certainly more loose than my regular brown bulldog Eastports, but tongue pads are enough to make things right. Odd considering tongue pads + insoles are not enough to make the suede Weltlines work for me. It seems that the Weltlines fit more loosely than Rancourt’s Pinch Penny/Eastport and Beefroll designs. And suede also fits more loosely than their smooth leather options. Both combined can make for a terrible fit if you’re low instep low volume like me.