RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

[vestbash]

I don't think it is.a tuck. My understanding is that those are used only on their Blake construction and it looks like the tuck is a full length insole wrapped in leather.



I question whether it's necessary to be honest. With a GYW shoe the shank is buried way down in the cork footbed under a thick leather insole. On the Rancourts you can feel it pressing against the underside of the foot and it's a distinctly uncomfortable feeling. I also own a few other handsewns that don't have shanks and those are soft and flexible and have no issues with lack of structure and stability.

I'm operating off of knowledge from 7 or 8 years ago at this point, so I may well be wrong about the construction specifics.

I do find that I prefer Rancourt's shoes for business casual dress over something like Quoddy's product, especially when it comes to heeled shoes like the pinch pennys or beefrolls. I do have a number of pairs from both companies, among other moccasin manufacturers and they all have their own pros and cons.

Ultimately the added structure from the shank and fiberboard insert in the heel to arch transition is important as there is added stress from impact due to the higher heel since the moccasin shoes do not have a true innersole. If you lower the heel like in Quoddy's heeled loafers then this component is not as essential. Yuketen uses the same type of sandwiched shank construction in their Made in Maine moccasins that came out of the Highland factory.

I find that at this price point, the quality is very good, and you have to make some trade offs WRT construction. If you want true moccasin construction there is going to be some components added to create a more traditionally styled men's dress shoe.

Just my take on the matter. This was hashed out on the forums some years back.

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

@vestbash Yeah, my understanding was that moccasin constructed shoes don't have an insole either but I think we were both mistaken.

I looked up Yuketan's construction and it looks to be the same as my Rancourts with the addition of a full length veg tanned leather insole on top of the tuck. Rancourt skip that entirely so it's no wonder I can feel the shank under my foot.

 

[ajd578]

So when does Rancourt use the shank/tuck? Is it when there is a heel block? Neither of my pairs of Gilmans seem to have either. One pair has a camp sole, the other Reltex Aspen (both wedge type).

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

Mine are a wedge sole too.

 

[vestbash]

@vestbash Yeah, my understanding was that moccasin constructed shoes don't have an insole either but I think we were both mistaken.

I looked up Yuketan's construction and it looks to be the same as my Rancourts with the addition of a full length veg tanned leather insole on top of the tuck. Rancourt skip that entirely so it's no wonder I can feel the shank under my foot.

When I say "insole", I mean in terms of a true insole as in a welted shoe, where the insole is a structural part of the shoe inseamed to the welt. In true moccasin construction, the insole, such as shown in the Yuketen diagram, that is just an inserted non structural component. A shoe that has a true insole, by a strict definition, cannot be a moccasin constructed shoe. There are technique that are used to adapt moccasin construction to be used for blake or blake rapid construction, and in that sense the innersole does become a structural component.

 

[neverseenbefore]

thoughts on the camp moc? anyone know if they are a good investment?

 

[Churchill W]

thoughts on the camp moc? anyone know if they are a good investment?

Not sure what you mean by good investment, but I enjoy mine. Out of the four pairs of footwear I brought with me for my temp living situation, one pair are camp mocs. Out of the 4, 3 are made by Rancourt.

 

[neverseenbefore]

Not sure what you mean by good investment, but I enjoy mine. Out of the four pairs of footwear I brought with me for my temp living situation, one pair are camp mocs. Out of the 4, 3 are made by Rancourt.

Thanks, I saw the recent pre orders so will give it a go.

 

[neverseenbefore]

Thanks, I saw the recent pre orders so will give it a go.

quick question, TTS?

 

[KPDarb]

thoughts on the camp moc? anyone know if they are a good investment?

I think a CXL camp moc (versatile, comfortable, day to wear, repairable) at $150 is a stupid good deal...

 

[KPDarb]

quick question, TTS?

Any comparable footwear? Id recommend half down in these since the cxl will definitely stretch a good amount. Only way I wouldn't size down is if you plan tower medium or thick socks or have wider feet.

 

[neverseenbefore]

Any comparable footwear? Id recommend half down in these since the cxl will definitely stretch a good amount. Only way I wouldn't size down is if you plan tower medium or thick socks or have wider feet.

Im a 9E fit in Alden LHS. should I go 9.5?

 

[Churchill W]

My suede Brooks Brothers by Rancourt camp mocs are half size down from my Ranger Mocs. Though I do have Ranger mocs in half size down from Brannock too.

 

[bry2000]

New to this thread, but chiming in. I have Rancourts made for Brooks. They are each TTS.

 

[Blue_Bowtie]

Snuff suede Byron boots for today gentlemen. Have a great week!