RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

[Michigan Planner]

If I may ask, are your navy shell mocs lined or unlined? Also, what kind of sole and edge color did you chose?

Just trying to figure out my specifics, your pair looks great.

Mine are unlined and have the "Caliber" sole. They are very comfortable. I think Rancourt used to market the Caliber as a type of crepe sole. (As an aside, if you've ever had a crepe sole from Alden, these are about 100x better quality IMO. Alden's crepe sole is heavy, very soft so it breaks down quickly, tracks dirt and water everywhere, and (for some reason) Alden doesn't extend their crepe sole to the very end of the toe so there is a small gap where the leather portion at the front of foot meets the crepe and this has always been a problem area on any Alden crepe-soled shoe I've owned. I might not be explaining it well but if you look up photos of an Alden with a crepe sole, you should be able to see what I mean).

FWIW, I've also got a couple pair of Alden boots and Ranger Mocs (shell and CXL) that have the "Reltex Lactae Hevea" crepe sole, and those are equally comfortable and look pretty good in most casual Ranger Mocs I've seen. I think I like the color of the Caliber sole with the navy a bit better than the Lactae Hevea soles. Like I said, both are very comfortable. The Lactae Hevea soles are a bit softer and do wear down a little quicker but I've found they are a bit more grippy on wet floors or icy sidewalks/parking lots than the Caliber, though the Caliber is no slouch.

I'm pretty sure I chose natural or undyed edge and stitching for the navy mocs (and brass eyelets).

This talk of the different options for soles and stitching makes me miss the "Build Your Own" tool Rancourt used to have on their site. Even if the renderings weren't always the most accurate it was a great way to see the myriad different options available for customization.

 

[tuna roll]

Mine are unlined and have the "Caliber" sole. They are very comfortable. I think Rancourt used to market the Caliber as a type of crepe sole. (As an aside, if you've ever had a crepe sole from Alden, these are about 100x better quality IMO. Alden's crepe sole is heavy, very soft so it breaks down quickly, tracks dirt and water everywhere, and (for some reason) Alden doesn't extend their crepe sole to the very end of the toe so there is a small gap where the leather portion at the front of foot meets the crepe and this has always been a problem area on any Alden crepe-soled shoe I've owned. I might not be explaining it well but if you look up photos of an Alden with a crepe sole, you should be able to see what I mean).

FWIW, I've also got a couple pair of Alden boots and Ranger Mocs (shell and CXL) that have the "Reltex Lactae Hevea" crepe sole, and those are equally comfortable and look pretty good in most casual Ranger Mocs I've seen. I think I like the color of the Caliber sole with the navy a bit better than the Lactae Hevea soles. Like I said, both are very comfortable. The Lactae Hevea soles are a bit softer and do wear down a little quicker but I've found they are a bit more grippy on wet floors or icy sidewalks/parking lots than the Caliber, though the Caliber is no slouch.

I'm pretty sure I chose natural or undyed edge and stitching for the navy mocs (and brass eyelets).

This talk of the different options for soles and stitching makes me miss the "Build Your Own" tool Rancourt used to have on their site. Even if the renderings weren't always the most accurate it was a great way to see the myriad different options available for customization.

Thanks, that's very helpful. I've never been a fan of crepe soles as the ones I've had (Alden, Quoddy and Oak St Bootmakers) were all heavy and made the shoes bottom-heavy.

Both the Caliber and the Realtex sound more interesting. I'll probably go with one of them, also neutral edges, brass eyelets and natural/tan stitching. I just need to figure out which shell color, never an easy task...

 

[Bavo]

Transitioning over to fall w/ the natty CXL Baxters

 

[CommanderMcBragg]

From a historical perspective I don't think you can say Rancourt is de-prioritizing fit because of width offerings. You may be forgetting they launched the brand a little over a decade ago with the popular 800 last camp mocs and ranger mocs in D & E widths only. They've since expanded to B & EE to service the extended width customer. Same thing applies to their 2592 last.

I would imagine it's possible they've found a comfortable middle ground at this point, but don't forget it's not just lasts and dies to consider. Even if they already own the equipment which could in theory be used on a new style offering, someone still needs to do the time consuming legwork of setting up a Bill of Materials (which is effectively the guide sheet for workers to follow to make the shoe properly) for every B & EE size/width combo, which is not a light task. It's not a Herculean task, but it's another job that someone would have to complete, and given that many shoemakers resources are stretched thin these days it's possible they'd like to see if "the new style" gets a good response in D width before committing to the extra work required to get the slower selling widths set up.

That doesn't explain however why they wouldn't make the B width available for the Brown Beefroll pre-sale at wholesale prices currently happening. That seems short sighted, and is perhaps an oversight. It's certainly a missed opportunity as no extra leg work is involved at all.

Hello AEnonymous--

Slightly tangental question for you.

I have noted your keen insight into Maine cobblers over the years--and particularly all things Rancourt. Back in my erstwhile college days, I discovered the LL Bean Blucher to be the perfect footwear. I later found their hightop chukka version, where I even bought two pairs of the latter after they were discontinued ("Style 6393? Sure we can make two pairs of those for you"...those were the days).

Once the Bean Blucher was outsourced to El Salvador it wasn't the same. For years after, I searched with negative results for that idyllic, understated Bean Blucher offered by other manufacturers.

In 2014 or so, the Trail Oxford from Oak Street Bootmakers came across my radar. At last: a nearly identical facsimile of the Bean Blucher, but with higher-quality leather. Win! Each year when they did their blowout sale I would purchase another pair in my size 12 for $197, or whatever it was. My Brannock size is 13, but these OSBs ran large.

When I bought my yearly pair in 2018, something was wrong; very wrong. I tried them on, and I couldn't get my feet into them. Yes, these are snug for the first week or two until they are broken in, but these felt painful while sitting down. Did they send me a women's 12...? No. I contacted the rep there and advised I'd gotten a mis-marked pair, so they sent me another in exchange.

Exact same problem. Uh oh.

Upon researching further, I discovered that the Highland factory--suppliers to OSB--had shut down in 2017. Turned out that OSB was now sourcing their shoes from Rancourt.

I sized up to 13, but the fit was never quite right and the quality did not seem the same. The pair of Rancourt-made Trail Oxfords from 2018 sit eternally in my closet, as I never wear them.

Sorry for the long-winded missive, but may I know your thoughts on Rancourt vs the now-defunct Highland factory?

 

[Garrister]

Hello AEnonymous--

Slightly tangental question for you.

I have noted your keen insight into Maine cobblers over the years--and particularly all things Rancourt. Back in my erstwhile college days, I discovered the LL Bean Blucher to be the perfect footwear. I later found their hightop chukka version, where I even bought two pairs of the latter after they were discontinued ("Style 6393? Sure we can make two pairs of those for you"...those were the days).

Once the Bean Blucher was outsourced to El Salvador it wasn't the same. For years after, I searched with negative results for that idyllic, understated Bean Blucher offered by other manufacturers.

In 2014 or so, the Trail Oxford from Oak Street Bootmakers came across my radar. At last: a nearly identical facsimile of the Bean Blucher, but with higher-quality leather. Win! Each year when they did their blowout sale I would purchase another pair in my size 12 for $197, or whatever it was. My Brannock size is 13, but these OSBs ran large.

When I bought my yearly pair in 2018, something was wrong; very wrong. I tried them on, and I couldn't get my feet into them. Yes, these are snug for the first week or two until they are broken in, but these felt painful while sitting down. Did they send me a women's 12...? No. I contacted the rep there and advised I'd gotten a mis-marked pair, so they sent me another in exchange.

Exact same problem. Uh oh.

Upon researching further, I discovered that the Highland factory--suppliers to OSB--had shut down in 2017. Turned out that OSB was now sourcing their shoes from Rancourt.

I sized up to 13, but the fit was never quite right and the quality did not seem the same. The pair of Rancourt-made Trail Oxfords from 2018 sit eternally in my closet, as I never wear them.

Sorry for the long-winded missive, but may I know your thoughts on Rancourt vs the now-defunct Highland factory?

Where did you learn that OSB sourced from Rancourt? Post the Highland factory shutdown in 2017, I thought they sourced their handsewns from a privately owned factory in New York.

 

[CommanderMcBragg]

Someone on here mentioned it. At some point in 2019 or so I got a contact name at Rancourt, as I called to ask about having a pair of old Rancourts resoled in the traditional Amazonas-type wedge sole they used to use, and not the "new" style that's a bit wider. The contact at Rancourt told me no. I asked why he couldn't simply use the same sole as they put on the Trail Oxford they supply to OSB, and he replied that they can only use that sole for the OSB shoes.

Maybe something has changed at this juncture with OSB and the NY factory you reference, but that's how it was a few years ago.

 

[madawgg]

Wearing my Ranger Mocs (freshly oiled with Saphir Greasy Leather cream) and they feel like new! I finally trimmed a bit off the laces too because they had been flopping around a bit too much.

Sorry to revive an old post but what is this type of outsole called?

 

[Aenonymous]

Hello AEnonymous--

Slightly tangental question for you.

I have noted your keen insight into Maine cobblers over the years--and particularly all things Rancourt. Back in my erstwhile college days, I discovered the LL Bean Blucher to be the perfect footwear. I later found their hightop chukka version, where I even bought two pairs of the latter after they were discontinued ("Style 6393? Sure we can make two pairs of those for you"...those were the days).

Once the Bean Blucher was outsourced to El Salvador it wasn't the same. For years after, I searched with negative results for that idyllic, understated Bean Blucher offered by other manufacturers.

In 2014 or so, the Trail Oxford from Oak Street Bootmakers came across my radar. At last: a nearly identical facsimile of the Bean Blucher, but with higher-quality leather. Win! Each year when they did their blowout sale I would purchase another pair in my size 12 for $197, or whatever it was. My Brannock size is 13, but these OSBs ran large.

When I bought my yearly pair in 2018, something was wrong; very wrong. I tried them on, and I couldn't get my feet into them. Yes, these are snug for the first week or two until they are broken in, but these felt painful while sitting down. Did they send me a women's 12...? No. I contacted the rep there and advised I'd gotten a mis-marked pair, so they sent me another in exchange.

Exact same problem. Uh oh.

Upon researching further, I discovered that the Highland factory--suppliers to OSB--had shut down in 2017. Turned out that OSB was now sourcing their shoes from Rancourt.

I sized up to 13, but the fit was never quite right and the quality did not seem the same. The pair of Rancourt-made Trail Oxfords from 2018 sit eternally in my closet, as I never wear them.

Sorry for the long-winded missive, but may I know your thoughts on Rancourt vs the now-defunct Highland factory?

Hi there. I don't have a lot of insight on Rancourt vs Highland. I never had any real personal experience with Highland, except to say that while they both make/made very similar products I always thought Rancourt's execution was a little more refined. But plenty of folks have worn Highlands shoes under various brand names and been happy, so it was definitely quality product.

You may want to give the OSB Trail Oxfords another shot. Yes, they were made by Rancourt for a relatively short period of time when Highland first closed, but OSB eventually bought the defunct Highland factory and so now makes their own handsewns there... maybe there's a chance the fit has returned to what you preferred?

@Garrister - the upstate NY connection you're thinking of would be for OSB's welted product, which was made in the PW Minor factory in Batavia, NY (I don't believe that factory would have had the handsewn skills required to do OSB's moccasins, and Rancourt was definitely picking up that slack for OSB). PW Minor closed in 2018 and then reopened in 2019 as Artisan Boot & Shoe. I think I read that there are 5 brands being made in that factory currently, so I'm assuming OSB was able to reboot their welted biz there.

 

[SpallaPerfetta]

Hi there. I don't have a lot of insight on Rancourt vs Highland. I never had any real personal experience with Highland, except to say that while they both make/made very similar products I always thought Rancourt's execution was a little more refined. But plenty of folks have worn Highlands shoes under various brand names and been happy, so it was definitely quality product.

You may want to give the OSB Trail Oxfords another shot. Yes, they were made by Rancourt for a relatively short period of time when Highland first closed, but OSB eventually bought the defunct Highland factory and so now makes their own handsewns there... maybe there's a chance the fit has returned to what you preferred?

@Garrister - the upstate NY connection you're thinking of would be for OSB's welted product, which was made in the PW Minor factory in Batavia, NY (I don't believe that factory would have had the handsewn skills required to do OSB's moccasins, and Rancourt was definitely picking up that slack for OSB). PW Minor closed in 2018 and then reopened in 2019 as Artisan Boot & Shoe. I think I read that there are 5 brands being made in that factory currently, so I'm assuming OSB was able to reboot their welted biz there.

I love my OSB trail oxfords.

 

[Aenonymous]

Sorry to revive an old post but what is this type of outsole called?

It's a Lactae Hevea cup sole. The current version they use is LH's Vantage sole, seen here and here.

 

[GaiusM]

Sorry to revive an old post but what is this type of outsole called?

Word of warning - the LH cup is unresoleable. Mine wore through after a year and mo repair shop has been able to resole them.

 

[Aenonymous]

Word of warning - the LH cup is unresoleable. Mine wore through after a year and mo repair shop has been able to resole them.

I think that's probably why they've updated to the Vantage sole from the the original one they were using when the concept was originally introduced. The Vantage is still not resolable but it sounds like it probably provides better wear than the original cup sole they used. I'm assuming your sole was the original, but perhaps I'm wrong?

 

[barutanseijin]

Caramel Pinch Pennies:

 

[BAK]

New pair of Rancourts I had made for my brother in law. He was needing to replace his 15+ year old pair of Allen Edmonds beefroll Holton model, which Rancourt made for AE back in the day. But he was hoping to do something a little dressier, so we went with a fully lined Beefroll in dark brown calfskin (tonal threads) on the Vibram 430 sole.

I also had a pair of camp mocs made for myself which I'll get around to posting once I have a chance to take some photos.

 

[NonChalant321]

I really like the look and functionality of the 430 mini-lug sole. I had it on my shell cordovan pinch penny loafers. Last year, I had Rancourt resole with the RLH cricket sole when I noticed my knees ached a little from hard hardness of the 430 - I miss the 430 aesthetic so am considering asking them if it's possible to resole back to the 430 next time. I'm not sure if it's possible though (was told a few years ago that they could only switch from Vibram to RLH once).