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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

Commisar

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Alright so I think I've got my 115 last size dialed in the best I can. Two derbies, the Camden and the Rockland arrived today and I tried them on. See the gallery for more info but the gist is the 9.5D (tts aka Brannock) is roomy but not falling off my feet and get 9D (.5 size under Brannock) is quite uncomfortable (mainly toe squeeze where all the tore are getting mashed together and instep squeeze) even when standing or sitting down.

9.5 D can't be pulled off my feet when laced up unlike the AE 201 last for example. As for stretching concerns..... Worst case is a I get tongue pads to fill out the instep for the facings and even then CXL only stretches when it's being pushed on so to speak.

The shoes felt very solid and smelled excellent, the leather is nice and thick in my opinion. I love the Vibram mini lug sole too. I might exchange the natural CXL Camdens for another pair as the right shoe has 2 big scratches in the leather and the left has a weird leather "bunch up" on the inside rear quarter of the shoe.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 
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Luscombe

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Alright so I think I've got my 115 last size dialed in the best I can. Two derbies, the Camden and the Rockland arrived today and I tried them on. See the gallery for more info but the gist is the 9.5D (tts aka Brannock) is roomy but not falling off my feet and get 9D (.5 size under Brannock) is quite uncomfortable (mainly toe squeeze where all the tore are getting mashed together and instep squeeze) even when standing or sitting down.

9.5 D can't be pulled off my feet when laced up unlike the AE 201 last for example. As for stretching concerns..... Worst case is a I get tongue pads to fill out the instep for the facings and even then CXL only stretches when it's being pushed on so to speak.

The shoes felt very solid and smelled excellent, the leather is nice and thick in my opinion. I love the Vibram mini lug sole too. I might exchange the natural CXL Camdens for another pair as the right shoe has 2 big scratches in the leather and the left has a weird leather "bunch up" on the inside rear quarter of the shoe.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

It looks like the 9.5D Camden is the right fit for you. My experience with CXL is that it stretches. The lining helps prevent some of that but your bluchers are almost touching now when laced. You will definitely need tongue pads before the year is up. I would also recommend a light insole like Happystep terry imsoles to take up a small part of the volume, The commando sole on the Camdens is awesome. I have them on my Byron Kudos and love them

I debated the leathers on my Byrons and went with lined flint kudo suede because of the stretching with cxl. They were comfortable out of the box and the kudo will not stretch. I would steer you towards the Rockland 9.5D in lined suede but I hate the Daninite soles and will not have them on another pair of shoes. Either RLH soles, camp soles or commando for me.

I may roll the dice on a pair of Camden in CXL if they are offered again in a Crowdfunding sale. I just know they will fit fine at first but stretch with wear. My other option is to do a custom order with Rancourt for a Camden in Kudo similar to my Byrons.

Yeah, life is very good once you get your size and last dialed in with Rancourt. The custom order process allows you to pick almost any leather/sole combination at an affordable cost. Then there is the Shell rabbit hole..........
 
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Commisar

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It looks like the 9.5D Camden is the right fit for you. My experience with CXL is that it stretches. The lining helps prevent some of that but your bluchers are almost touching now when laced. You will definitely need tongue pads before the year is up. I would also recommend a light insole like Happystep terry imsoles to take up a small part of the volume, The commando sole on the Camdens is awesome. I have them on my Byron Kudos and love them

I debated the leathers on my Byrons and went with lined flint kudo suede because of the stretching with cxl. They were comfortable out of the box and the kudo will not stretch. I would steer you towards the Rockland 9.5D in lined suede but I hate the Daninite soles and will not have them on another pair of shoes. Either RLH soles, camp soles or commando for me.

I may roll the dice on a pair of Camden in CXL if they are offered again in a Crowdfunding sale. I just know they will fit fine at first but stretch with wear. My other option is to do a custom order with Rancourt for a Camden in Kudo similar to my Byrons.

Yeah, life is very good once you get your size and last dialed in with Rancourt. The custom order process allows you to pick almost any leather/sole combination at an affordable cost.
Thanks for the advice. I use a tongue pad on one of my AE Higgins Mill boots (CXL of course) to soak up a bit of volume.

The other pair I'll be getting are the Chandler Longwings in Brown calf so the CXL stretch shouldn't be a concern there.

As for insoles, for leather shoes I use pedag or Saphir leather insoles. They are comfortable and super thin.
 

Luscombe

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Thanks for the advice. I use a tongue pad on one of my AE Higgins Mill boots (CXL of course) to soak up a bit of volume.

The other pair I'll be getting are the Chandler Longwings in Brown calf so the CXL stretch shouldn't be a concern there.

As for insoles, for leather shoes I use pedag or Saphir leather insoles. They are comfortable and super thin.
Brown calf should do well for you.
Try the Happystep terry cloth. I have them in nearly every pair of my shoes. Highly recommended especially for sockless wear.
 

James1051

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Hello all,
Can anyone comment on the fit of the
Baxter Ranger Moc
Gilman Camp Moc and
Traveler Beefroll?

I am a B width with flat feet, so wide and high instep fits are tough for me.
Thank you
 

Bavo

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Hello all,
Can anyone comment on the fit of the
Baxter Ranger Moc
Gilman Camp Moc and
Traveler Beefroll?

I am a B width with flat feet, so wide and high instep fits are tough for me.
Thank you
I find my Baxters to fit true to size. They don’t have a lot of arch support as expected by the style (although they do have a lot more than others), so I think they’ll be fine for flatter feet. I have D feet but the width feels as I’d expect. When I was researching this forum’s history there were split opinions on 1/2 size down vs TTS, if you like a tighter fit (it’s unlined and stretches a bit).
 

Luscombe

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Hello all,
Can anyone comment on the fit of the
Baxter Ranger Moc
Gilman Camp Moc and
Traveler Beefroll?

I am a B width with flat feet, so wide and high instep fits are tough for me.
Thank you
What is your Brannock measurement both to the tip of your toes and to the knuckle by your big toe?
You will probably want to size to your knuckle measurement but beware that CXL stretches. For me the deal breaker is where the sole flexes and that is a function of the sole material, the leather thickness, and the last. I have found that the 115 last fits me better than the handsewn 800 last.

I too have narrow feet. I measure 11B on the Brannock to my knuckle and 10.5 to the end of my toe.
If I downsize to 10.5B to match my toe length, the sole can flex in the wrong place for me and will be painful. If the soles are really flexible and the leather is not thick (Camp sole with CXL is fine in 10.5 B), then the 10.5B works.

I have several pairs of the Baxter Rangers. My first was an 11B in cxl and fit perfectly until the leather stretched. Now the bluchers touch when laced even with a tongue pad and thin sole. They are still very comfy. My Rangers 11B in Essex fit perfectly and have not stretched much as the leather is thicker. I tried a Downeast in 10.5B which has the thickest leather at 10oz. and the leather makes it too stiff to wear comfortably.

Todays 25% off sale is enticing. If you order stock makeups then you can exchange them for a different size.
 

Luscombe

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Something Special Came Today

I saw a post quite a while back of some Rangers in Horse Butt and thought that's a good idea. I like the CXL but it stretches. The horse butt is a little stiffer but breaks in nicely and becomes soft without stretching. Rancourt does not offer a horse butt option so you have to find and provide the leather to Rancourt. This makes the shoe/boots a bit more expensive but you get a custom-made shoe. I am not sure who else offers this kind of made-to-order shoes and boots on a one-off basis. Rancourt really is special.

It took a few emails and phone calls with David at Rancourt to get the details figured out. It was an easy process.

I ordered a pair of custom Acadia's, lined, full sock liner, brass hardware, and the RLH Rally sole. Man are these things comfortable. Part of the magic is the Rally sole. It is so..... comfortable. I hope it is not as slippery as the Aspen sole on the Baxter Moc's. That sole is the magic to the Baxter comfort.

Here are a few photos.
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