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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whatever123, Sep 2, 2010.

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  1. P Hudson

    P Hudson Member

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    As an additional point on sizing, let me make an observation about my camp mocs. The heel stitching that creates a horizontal line across the back is fairly robust and the pulled-together leather together is fairly straight, that is to say, almost perpendicular to the length of the shoe. Are you with me on that description? I don't know the technical terms to use.

    What I've noticed is that after a while, as the CXL is shaped by the foot, that straight line of leather becomes contoured, thus adding to the length of the shoe as the heel of the foot is better able to slide into that cupped heel space. I would guess that the increase is at least between a quarter and a half size, and maybe more. My camp mocs have gone from initially feeling tight to feeling much better after 3 months of wear. The first adaptation was in the width around the midfoot, as it took on the shape of my foot. Now more recently I've noticed the aforementioned adaptation in length. So while some of us may have bought shoes that are in fact too small, some of us might just need to wait for them to improve their shape.
     
  2. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    They might not be too small. I am a 11D or 10.5E and I got my Quoddies in 10D. It's super painful for maybe 3 wears, then it's perfect molded fit. Should be the same in Rancourt as it's gonna be constructed the same
     
  3. hhkb

    hhkb Member

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    I was taking a look at the sizing chart again and wonder if I'm doing it wrong. It looks like this

    -------
    9 ----
    ------- (size 10.5?)
    10 ---- (size 10?)
    -------

    I assume that the line that points to '10' is size 10, just like on a brannock. But maybe that is actually a 10.5, and the 10 is for the line below it.
     
  4. hhkb

    hhkb Member

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    I did get them stretched already by rancourt, I forgot to mention that. It made a slight improvement - probably the equivalent of increasing the width by a quarter/half size. But still feels too small.
    You may be right. I was thinking the same when I ordered them sized down, esp. as unlined cxl. I may give them a few more wears and see how it goes. Thanks for the feedback!
     
  5. jns425

    jns425 Well-Known Member

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    Oct 12, 2012
    Just placed 2 orders at Portland Dry Goods. Dustin was great. Super helpful.

    4 eyelit ranger moc
    -CXL Green
    -Vibram christy wedge in white
    -Nickel plated eyelits
    -Grey laces

    Beefroll penny loafer
    -CXL Navy
    -Tempest sole in natural
    -White stiching

    I found where my toe fit well in length. The D was really really tight on the sides, so I went up to an E - assuming that the E would likely be tight as well, but the CXL would stretch. Ordered the same size in both.

    Pictures to follow in a few weeks...

    Quick question though (and i'll probably call or email rancourt in a few days)...I'm gonna order shoe trees from them - the small is size 6.5E to 8D and the medium was 8EE to 10D. But would I do for an 8E? I'm guessing the small...
     
  6. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    I like your flavor neighbor! (especially on the Navy Blue)

    I'd be reluctant to put trees in CXL. Wouldn't want them to stretch excessively. (admittedly, I've never done it, so can't speak from experience)
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2012
  7. K. Nights

    K. Nights Senior member

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    If I wear a 10.5E in AE Waldens should I go for the same size in Beefroll loafer in cxl or should I size down? The Rancourt rep didn't seem very confident.
     
  8. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    I've put shoe trees in my CXL pinch pennies and I don't think it stretches them particularly. I don't leave them in very long though since I don't have a dedicated pair of trees for these shoes (figure they are too casual to worry about too much). I think an occasional treeing helps them regain their shape, front to back, a little.

    I'm not familiar with how AE Waldens fit. Are they supposed to be TTS?

    And when you say size down, do you mean go 10E or 10.5D?

    I don't think I'd recommend a size 10. My feeling is that these Rancourt lasts aren't very long. They fit so that your toe is right up in the front of the shoe and it's the overall flexibility of the hand sewing and leather that makes them so comfortable. So, I think if 10.5E in AE fits well, then maybe you want to go 10.5D to take into account CXL's give.
     
  9. Winston S.

    Winston S. Senior member

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    I mentioned earlier in this thread that I no longer put trees in my Venetians that I picked up at Brooks Brothers. I think they may have stretched the shoe out a little too much and I don't want anymore stretching. I just stick the paper that was stuffed in them when I bought them.
     
  10. jt2gt

    jt2gt Senior member

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    Yep...just compared the two and that is what I get. So while it may look like a printable brannock (and I thought it was), the Rancourt chart is not. According to my comparison, I came up with the same as hhkb...so an 8 on the rancourt is jut shy of a 9 on the Brannock and so forth.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2012
  11. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    ^OK. So how exactly are you supposed to use the Rancourt sizing chart then? Do you need to convert somehow in order to be able to compare to your Brannock sizing?

    I'm confused.
     
  12. jah786

    jah786 Senior member

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    I want to share my experience with sizing - I bought a pair of CXL venetians from BB in the summer, 10.5 d. Same as my Allen Edmonds size. They stretched out a lot. At the suggestion of my cobbler, I added a pair of $5.50 cushioned insoles. Voila, they fit great now. Still, the CXL is so stretchy that without laces to cinch them, it is a big risk. My Oak street CXL mocs have also stretched, but the feeling is much different since they can be tied tight.

    The second pair was MTO, which I bought after the BB pair. Another pair of venetians, but this time medium brown pebble grain leather with a brick sole. I also got them lined. But I over compensated for the CXL and bought a 10.5 B. With the addition of the lining, this was a mistake. they were way too tight. And the light brown pebbled leather didn't stretch like the CXL. I sent them back to Rancourt and had them stretched and "re-lasted" but it really didn't do much. Then I took them back to my local cobbler who stretched them with much better results. I still need to have the toe area of the right foot stretched more, but they are wearable now, which is a relief because I was ready to list them on ebay or try to sell on SF.

    my conclusion is that buying MTO shoes without being able to try them on is...tricky. And it changes based on the material and configuration. For me, this is an acceptable price to pay to have top quality USA made shoes that are customizable and have only one layer of mark-up. But the MTO experience is not for everyone and sometimes you have to accept creative solutions.
     
    2 people like this.
  13. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    Thanks for sharing your experience. Should be valuable to those who are unsure about what size to order.

    How did the first pair fit before stretching? TTS?
     
  14. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    jah786, that final paragraph is very true. It is very tricky and there are quite a few variables to account for in the fit of any given pair. In way, it's the flip side of the really excellent MTO choices we can make with Rancourt.

    Also want to second the comment about top quality American made shoes. To me the final product is well worth any uncertainty.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2012
  15. jah786

    jah786 Senior member

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    the CXL venetians from BB (navy color) fit like a glove when I first bought them. In hindsight, this was actually a bad sign. they need to be tight and then will loosen. If I buy a CXL loafer again, I will get 10.5 B unlined. That should be tight enough to fit well after stretching from wear. But I'm speculating. I don't know how it will be until I try it.

    BTW, I sent the BB pair back to Rancourt and had white boat soles put on instead of the leather soles they came with. I was slip-sliding so much on the pure leather and had so many near miss wipe outs that I had to get a rubber sole on those shoes. Now they are my go-to. I love them, especially with the insert to make them feel snug again.

    One of the most intriguing shoes to me in Rancourt line up right now (other than Chukkas) is the camp moc. It has the easy slip on/off features of a loafer but the cinching ability of a tie. This helps calm my nerves on fit issues. Could be my next purchase (if I don't get winter chukkas first). Speaking of which, can you get a commando sole with Rancourt MTO like they have on Alden shoes?
     
  16. jns425

    jns425 Well-Known Member

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    Ok- so with all this sizing discussion, id like to get your opinions. I was able to try on the rancourts before purchasing my MTO pair, but widths were not available. I found that the length of the 8 really fit me well in length on both the both the beef roll and ranger moc. The D was obviously way too tight. On a structured shoe like AE I have worn EEE width (but of course on some Italian companies I have gone with a D or just E), but I was advised just to go with an E width on the rancourts.

    I was told if I had gone with an 8EE or EEE I really would have risked them being too big...

    Sorry for writing a book. I just love these shoes and I'm hoping they fit right.

    Does it sound like I got the right size?
     
  17. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    The one complaint I have about my beefroll loafers is that the leather sole does seem particularly slick, even for leather. When I get them resoled, I'll get something else

    Rancourt has some different things that are similar to Alden commando. There's the tempest sole that was mentioned a little earlier in this thread. Then I think I've also seen a lugged Reltex sole, and then I think they can do a variety of Vibram soles as well.


    If you could actually get your foot into the 8D, which it certainly sounds like you could, then hopefully going up one width is going to work. In light of the recent discussion here, what's the leather you are looking at and are you going lined or unlined?
     
  18. jns425

    jns425 Well-Known Member

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    CXL on on both the beefroll and ranger moc. Both unlined. My first time with a CXL shoe.

    Vibram sole on the ranger moc and Tempest sole on the beefroll

    I'm a little nervous, just because I've never worn CXL

    I actually ended up going up a 1/2 size from my AE size, but down two widths to "E" on account of the CXL
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2012
  19. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    My guess is that this works out well for you. I think you are going to love CXL. It's extremely comfortable and very tough. And I think it should work well with that sizing you chose. It's definitely got some room to stretch and mold to your foot. Good luck with these and let us know how they turn out.
     
  20. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    I've actually been thinking of doing a Venetian Loafer / Boat shoe hybrid for next summer. Brown CXL with white stitching, white boat sole and sort of an ornamental boat shoe rawhide lace tie (like instead of a tassel). No eyelets, no lacing around the side of the shoe. If you can picture such a thing. Essentially a boat shoe but the laces aren't functional. Or it could be thought of as a boat shoe themed venetian with ornamental rawhide tie where a tassel would go.
     

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