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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

Holsinger09

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Hi All,
I heard from Scott today; the idea of a GMTO is a definite maybe. He said to contact him early fall as the factory is now at capacity due to the crowdfunding sale. I interpret that to mean they have a solid 8 weeks of orders from the sale which will keep the factory busy into September.

I will reach out to Scott the first part of September and report the outcome back here on this thread.
As interested as I am in this GMTO option, from what it looks like on social media, Rancourt is gearing up for another round of crowdfunding. Not sure how this will affect any chances of a GMTO.
 

Luscombe

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As interested as I am in this GMTO option, from what it looks like on social media, Rancourt is gearing up for another round of crowdfunding. Not sure how this will affect any chances of a GMTO.
Yeah, given that they are busy through September and another crowdfunding round will take them through October and or November, we may not be able to do get any traction on the GMTO until December. I'm not giving up but am also not real optimistic. I will reach back out to Scott in late September.
 

Erikdayo

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Camel kudu beefrolls today.

Really happy about the mistake on the order. These are great.

That said I find Rancourt fit a little puzzling.

9D brown bulldog Easport - good out of the box
9D color 8 CXL beefroll - good out of the box
9D black suede weltline - still very loose with tongue pads and insoles. May have been okay with double tongue pads + insoles. Didn’t try
9D flint kudu suede Eastport - fine with tongue pads
9D marigold suede Eastport - very loose with 1 set of tongue pads. Seems like it would be fine with double tongue pads or tongue pads + insoles
9D camel kudu suede beefroll - good out of the box

These are all on the same last. Though obviously a few different patterns and leathers. Being slip on adds to the fit issues too. I almost wonder if I should have put more effort into making those black suede weltlines work. They are a nice style.

E403291B-985B-4624-B3E9-C35FDA59C8B3.jpeg80066C40-8DDD-45F3-BC28-5185A28164E0.jpeg
 

BAK

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Camel kudu beefrolls today.

Really happy about the mistake on the order. These are great.

That said I find Rancourt fit a little puzzling.

9D brown bulldog Easport - good out of the box
9D color 8 CXL beefroll - good out of the box
9D black suede weltline - still very loose with tongue pads and insoles. May have been okay with double tongue pads + insoles. Didn’t try
9D flint kudu suede Eastport - fine with tongue pads
9D marigold suede Eastport - very loose with 1 set of tongue pads. Seems like it would be fine with double tongue pads or tongue pads + insoles
9D camel kudu suede beefroll - good out of the box

These are all on the same last. Though obviously a few different patterns and leathers. Being slip on adds to the fit issues too. I almost wonder if I should have put more effort into making those black suede weltlines work. They are a nice style.

View attachment 1452851View attachment 1452853
A couple thoughts... The first two shoes on your list fit good and they're unlined. The next three shoes fit big and my guess is they're all lined (the black suede should be and I assume the kudu and marigold are also). The additional layer of lining leather would account for the shoes not lasting/sewing as tightly as unlined leathers. The final shoe on your list, assuming it is also lined would then be a head scratcher as to why it doesn't also fit big (unless of course it's unlined). Assuming your marigold and flint were MTO's and if you had a similar lined shoe made in the future you might ask them to use a full sockliner (the piece of leather immediately below your foot) instead of the usual half-sockliner. This will help eat up a little bit of additional space and potentially improve the fit, eliminating the need for a heel pad possibly.
 

Erikdayo

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A couple thoughts... The first two shoes on your list fit good and they're unlined. The next three shoes fit big and my guess is they're all lined (the black suede should be and I assume the kudu and marigold are also). The additional layer of lining leather would account for the shoes not lasting as tightly as unlined leathers. The last shoe on your list, assuming it is also lined would then be a head scratcher as to why it doesn't also fit big (unless of course it's unlined). Assuming your marigold and flint were MTO's and if you had a similar lined shoe made in the future you might ask them to use a full sockliner (the piece of leather immediately below your foot) instead of the usual half-sockliner. This will help eat up a little bit of additional space and potentially improve the fit, eliminating the need for a heel pad possibly.
I should have included that information. Yes. Everything besides the stock Eastport and stock CXL beefroll is lined. I wasn't aware of full sockliners being a thing for their loafers. That would potentially help quite a lot for the lined pairs. It's a lot easier to me to deal with a handsewn feeling slightly too tight for a few wears than having to add a few things to get them to not slide right off.

I have a feeling that the camel kudu suede beefrolls fitting reasonably tight is partly a pattern difference. The handsewn nature and style of the beefroll strap seems like it would be more likely to result in a tighter strap. Same for the pinch penny Eastports to some extent. It makes sense to me that the weltline design would be the least tight at the vamp. Or at least that is what I originally though. The marigold suede Eastport fit leaves me questioning that a bit. Perhaps the kudu suede just fits more tightly to the last than orion suede. I am fairly positive that the black suede weltlines and marigold suede Eastports are both Horween orion suede.
 

BAK

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I should have included that information. Yes. Everything besides the stock Eastport and stock CXL beefroll is lined. I wasn't aware of full sockliners being a thing for their loafers. That would potentially help quite a lot for the lined pairs. It's a lot easier to me to deal with a handsewn feeling slightly too tight for a few wears than having to add a few things to get them to not slide right off.

I have a feeling that the camel kudu suede beefrolls fitting reasonably tight is partly a pattern difference. The handsewn nature and style of the beefroll strap seems like it would be more likely to result in a tighter strap. Same for the pinch penny Eastports to some extent. It makes sense to me that the weltline design would be the least tight at the vamp. Or at least that is what I originally though. The marigold suede Eastport fit leaves me questioning that a bit. Perhaps the kudu suede just fits more tightly to the last than orion suede. I am fairly positive that the black suede weltlines and marigold suede Eastports are both Horween orion suede.
The black suede should be CF Stead's Repello, unless they switched. No idea about the Marigold though.
Screen Shot 2020-09-04 at 2.16.10 PM.png
 

Erikdayo

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The black suede should be CF Stead's Repello, unless they switched. No idea about the Marigold though.
View attachment 1452938
Good to know. I misremembered. According to my emails with Rancourt the marigold is definitely Horween Orion suede. I guess it was harder to remember because I no longer have the weltlines.

Of all the suede I've tried so far I'd probably put orion as my least favorite. It looks nice but feels more stiff. Less soft to the touch. Perhaps the orion doesn't last as tightly due to these characteristics. The kudu suede nap and softness is my personal favorite. My Alden kudu suede boots are also very nice although I think they use calfskin that's made to be more 'kudu-like'
 

BAK

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Good to know. I misremembered. According to my emails with Rancourt the marigold is definitely Horween Orion suede. I guess it was harder to remember because I no longer have the weltlines.

Of all the suede I've tried so far I'd probably put orion as my least favorite. It looks nice but feels more stiff. Less soft to the touch. Perhaps the orion doesn't last as tightly due to these characteristics. The kudu suede nap and softness is my personal favorite. My Alden kudu suede boots are also very nice although I think they use calfskin that's made to be more 'kudu-like'
That would make sense. Stead's Repello suede is a true calfskin, so would be more supple than Orion which I'm assuming since it's from Horween it would be made from an older animal (I don't believe Horween uses calf, but specializes in cow and steer, but I could be wrong).

Alden kudu suede?🤔
 

BAK

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Thought you all might enjoy this old Rancourt catalogue which features a collaboration they did with another designer, from 2014. Some very interesting items in here. Note how on the cap toe boot the vamp overlays the toe instead of the usual opposite. Also check out the two-tone soles on the Blake wingtip shoes.
 

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Michigan Planner

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I'm not really a bit-loafer fan but I saw that Leffot is doing a preorder for some Color #8 bit-loafers from Rancourt. They look pretty good! Rancourt x Leffot Bit Ivy Pre-order

1599585724401.png


They are pretty nice looking - a bit more formal than many of the other bit-loafers I've seen.
 

BAK

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I'm not really a bit-loafer fan but I saw that Leffot is doing a preorder for some Color #8 bit-loafers from Rancourt. They look pretty good! Rancourt x Leffot Bit Ivy Pre-order

View attachment 1454796

They are pretty nice looking - a bit more formal than many of the other bit-loafers I've seen.
A couple key things to note: these are beefroll bits, so a bit less formal (imo) than Rancourt's traditional version and most others out there. And they're completely unlined shell.
 

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