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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

woofmang

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Thanks. I think the difference is on the side of the straps. On a more traditional Penny Loafer, it is machine stitched down. On the Penny Pinch Loafer, it is hand stitched down. I will also point out that with Rancourt’s moccasin shoe construction and hand stitching, the side/bottom are a single piece of leather and the vamp area is another separate piece of leather. They are joined together on the last during construction. On a more traditional loafer, such as Alden’s LHS, the apron stitch is decorative vice an attach point and is a skin stitch. Hope that helps some!

View attachment 1413246

View attachment 1413247

In this more side view, you can see the “pinching” of the strap to the side of the loafer.

-Mike
Thanks!
 

Bakes11771

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Just do a MTO. They don’t charge any up charges for MTOs. Cheers!


-Mike
There was a time around 2013 where there was no upcharge for MTOs. Now they usually do, but by how much I've found to be inconsistent, and Scott has mentioned that over time they've changed how much of an upcharge there is. I think he told me about a year ago that +$50 for just a different sole on a standard model, and +$100 if you wish to change other details.

I have 2 pairs of the same MTO in two different colors, ordered a few years apart. The first pair I only paid $350 vs the $325 stock model (Basically just a sole change). More recently I paid $425, because the color of the leather, in addition to the sole, was changed from the stock model.

I've heard that they don't upcharge on Shell MTO's since they are already so pricey to begin with, it would just make the cost too high. I haven't done a shell MTO since 2012, so I can't speak from recent experience.

Running errands in dad jeans and the Timberland x Rancourt Ranger mocs. I needn't have worried about the sizing as a day or two of wear was enough to stretch-out the width a little.

I have to say that I'm not really impressed with the overall quality of the shoe - the suede is a little better what you'd find on a Clarks Desert boot but nowhere near as nice as even my less expensive English welted shoes. They're surprisingly stiff and wooden feeling for a hand-sewn too. Not as stiff as a new pair of GYW shoes, but stiff. A peek under the sockliner shows a little padding to soften the heel strike above a layer of cheap texon sitting in turn on a steel shank. You can really feel the shank pressing against the arch so I have a feeling I'll need to drop these into a cobbler to get the whole contraption removed and an aftermarket insert added.

I don't know if this is Rancourt building down to meet a white label price constraint but it makes me think very carefully before buying any more of their shoes. I might give Quoddy a try next time around.
Yeah, like @Michigan Planner mentioned, the Reltex soles are really comfortable, but their leather soles leave much to be desired, IMO. They feel "wooden" as you say. Never tried the Vibram Christy, but am a little surprised at how underwhelming of a testimony you gave for them. I also agree about that cheap foamy insole, that you describe. However, I don't believe Rancourt puts steel shanks in any of their shoes, so not sure what you're feeling in there.

I think part of the reason for your relative comparison between this suede and that of the English GYW is that the latter is probably a more formal type of suede, like Repello. While Rancourt does offer that, these are likely one of their more casual varieties of suede.

I really love Rancourt for their handsewns, and I have a pair of Court Classic High 1.0's in Flint Kudu suede, that are wonderful, but for most of anything else I think you'd be better off looking elsewhere. They used to be a screaming value, when you could get a pair of boat shoes for $210, but they raised their prices about 25% across the board. I think Shell loafers were like $550. Considering they are hand sewn in the USA, they are still a good deal. Unfortunately, things made state-side generally cost 3.5x as much as the mass-produced alternative from overseas, I find.

Cheers.
 
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mdubs

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There was a time around 2013 where there was no upcharge for MTOs. Now they usually do, but by how much I've found to be inconsistent, and Scott has mentioned that over time they've changed how much of an upcharge there is. I think he told me about a year ago that +$50 for just a different sole on a standard model, and +$100 if you wish to change other details.

I have 2 pairs of the same MTO in two different colors, ordered a few years apart. The first pair I only paid $350 vs the $325 stock model (Basically just a sole change). More recently I paid $425, because the color of the leather, in addition to the sole, was changed from the stock model.

I've heard that they don't upcharge on Shell MTO's since they are already so pricey to begin with, it would just make the cost too high. I haven't done a shell MTO since 2012, so I can't speak from recent experience.



Yeah, like @Michigan Planner mentioned, the Reltex soles are really comfortable, but their leather soles leave much to be desired, IMO. They feel "wooden" as you say. Never tried the Vibram Christy, but am a little surprised at how underwhelming of a testimony you gave for them. I also agree about that cheap foamy insole, that you describe. However, I don't believe Rancourt puts steel shanks in any of their shoes, so not sure what you're feeling in there.

I think part of the reason for your relative comparison between this suede and that of the English GYW is that the latter is probably a more formal type of suede, like Repello. While Rancourt does offer that, these are likely one of their more casual varieties of suede.

I really love Rancourt for their handsewns, and I have a pair of Court Classic High 1.0's in Flint Kudu suede, that are wonderful, but for most of anything else I think you'd be better off looking elsewhere. They used to be a screaming value, when you could get a pair of boat shoes for $210, but they raised their prices about 25% across the board. I think Shell loafers were like $550. Considering they are hand sewn in the USA, they are still a good deal. Unfortunately, things made state-side generally cost 3.5x as much as the mass-produced alternative from overseas, I find.

Cheers.
Thanks Baked and interesting! I guess that I didn’t notice the policy because all of the MTOs that I have done have been Shell Cordovan models. Cheers!

-Mike
 

Blake Stitched Blues

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Yeah, like @Michigan Planner mentioned, the Reltex soles are really comfortable, but their leather soles leave much to be desired, IMO. They feel "wooden" as you say. Never tried the Vibram Christy, but am a little surprised at how underwhelming of a testimony you gave for them. I also agree about that cheap foamy insole, that you describe. However, I don't believe Rancourt puts steel shanks in any of their shoes, so not sure what you're feeling in there.

I think part of the reason for your relative comparison between this suede and that of the English GYW is that the latter is probably a more formal type of suede, like Repello. While Rancourt does offer that, these are likely one of their more casual varieties of suede.

I really love Rancourt for their handsewns, and I have a pair of Court Classic High 1.0's in Flint Kudu suede, that are wonderful, but for most of anything else I think you'd be better off looking elsewhere. They used to be a screaming value, when you could get a pair of boat shoes for $210, but they raised their prices about 25% across the board. I think Shell loafers were like $550. Considering they are hand sewn in the USA, they are still a good deal. Unfortunately, things made state-side generally cost 3.5x as much as the mass-produced alternative from overseas, I find.

Cheers.
I'm a little surprised myself to tell you the truth. I've always liked this thread but could never be bothered dealing with international shipping and customs. When I saw that these were available in Europe and made by Rancourt I jumped at the chance to pick up a pair.

They're getting dropped off at the cobbler on Monday anyway so morbid curiosity got the better of me and I peeled the sockliner off - sure enough there's a very thin layer of glorified cardboard sitting directly on top of a steel shank.


 

jcatl

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I would like to take advantage of Rancourt's crowdfunding deal on the Acadia chukkas but am torn about sizing. My largest foot is 9.5D/E (barely) and my other foot a 9E (wider than the other). I have very wide toes and hate shoes that constrain them, and probably a slightly higher than average volume on both feet. However I've read that the 2592 last is very generous in width so I'm thinking of just getting a D, but not sure whether to size down in length. I will wear these with both mid-weight and in colder months potentially boot socks. Thanks in advance for any advice you might have.

FWIW their size chart puts me at a 9.5E.
 
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Luscombe

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I would like to take advantage of Rancourt's crowdfunding deal on the Acadia chukkas but am torn about sizing. My largest foot is 9.5D/E (barely) and my other foot a 9E (wider than the other). I have very wide toes and hate shoes that constrain them, and probably a slightly higher than average volume on both feet. However I've read that the 2592 last is very generous in width so I'm thinking of just getting a D, but not sure whether to size down in length. I will wear these with both mid-weight and in colder months potentially boot socks. Thanks in advance for any advice you might have.

FWIW their size chart puts me at a 9.5E.
I sized mine down from an 11B in the Ranger to a 10.5B Acadia and found the toe box to be a bit snug at 10.5B. I like that as I have narrow low volume feet. I bought 11B's in Ranger last year and the CXL stretched at least one full width. The only way I wear them now is with medium weight socks.
I think you would be fine with a 9.5D, especially if you are ok wearing socks.
 

Joe Schmoe

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I’m in on a shell boat shoe GMTO. Always wanted one, never pulled the trigger despite having a large shell collection. But if there’s a GMTO - this would be awesome!
 

Bakes11771

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I'm a little surprised myself to tell you the truth. I've always liked this thread but could never be bothered dealing with international shipping and customs. When I saw that these were available in Europe and made by Rancourt I jumped at the chance to pick up a pair.

They're getting dropped off at the cobbler on Monday anyway so morbid curiosity got the better of me and I peeled the sockliner off - sure enough there's a very thin layer of glorified cardboard sitting directly on top of a steel shank.
Yuck! Dirty secrets revealed.

Looks like a foil gum wrapper. The shanks I've seen in pictures of half constructed Aldens were much more substantial looking, with a bit of corrugation to them as well.

Surprised to see that in there. I had no idea. Thanks for posting.
 

KPDarb

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Yuck! Dirty secrets revealed.

Looks like a foil gum wrapper. The shanks I've seen in pictures of half constructed Aldens were much more substantial looking, with a bit of corrugation to them as well.

Surprised to see that in there. I had no idea. Thanks for posting.
I really never liked the idea of a steel shank in a moccasin construction/style shoe. This also explains what I feel to be extra weight of their "premium" soled shoes for what I consider to be inherently light weight shoes. Between the steel shank, which is small, and that extra "leather-like" midsole to cover the shank really makes a heavier feeling shoe, particularly toward the heel. After see the midsole @Blake Stitched Blues revealed in the earlier post, I decided to pull up the sole on my cxl beefrolls. The midsole looks a bit different and you can see the extra row of sole stitching since they have ben resoled once before. I've also included some extremely scientific data involving the weights of different models....

This actually makes me feel better about resoling these shoes over and over, especially on shell models. It's a logical and cost effective way to repeatedly stitch through the upper without incurring the full stress of the build and wear.


78C48CF0-CC69-4152-A3E8-A1C42CCB7D2A.jpeg

1688A3CD-F481-448B-ACC1-32EDA641BBEB.jpeg


The CXL beefrolls have a full length padded insole which likely adds an oz or so to each shoe. They CXL stretched so much from their original size I chose to add the insole vs relasting to a narrower width.


1E5D6BC5-00F5-42BA-B44E-C4156D5D174F.jpeg

191BA1BD-12D2-47AC-8702-5D082162F170.jpeg


Yes, the rancourts are an entire shallot heavier than their English counterpart!!

E61710D5-F92E-4AF8-B86C-F043CF40EF06.jpeg
 
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vestbash

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Yuck! Dirty secrets revealed.

Looks like a foil gum wrapper. The shanks I've seen in pictures of half constructed Aldens were much more substantial looking, with a bit of corrugation to them as well.

Surprised to see that in there. I had no idea. Thanks for posting.
This is what Rancourt calls a "fiberboard tuck". The construction is genuine moccasin construction and lacks a true insole like in a welted shoe, so this is a necessary component to add structure and stability to the shoe.
 

Blake Stitched Blues

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This is what Rancourt calls a "fiberboard tuck". The construction is genuine moccasin construction and lacks a true insole like in a welted shoe, so this is a necessary component to add structure and stability to the shoe.
I don't think it is.a tuck. My understanding is that those are used only on their Blake construction and it looks like the tuck is a full length insole wrapped in leather.


I question whether it's necessary to be honest. With a GYW shoe the shank is buried way down in the cork footbed under a thick leather insole. On the Rancourts you can feel it pressing against the underside of the foot and it's a distinctly uncomfortable feeling. I also own a few other handsewns that don't have shanks and those are soft and flexible and have no issues with lack of structure and stability.
 

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