RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

[Bakes11771]

Has anyone purchased a pair of Gilman Camp Mocs? Did a search on this thread and came up with nothing. I've been looking for a pair of drivers lately and it's hard to find well-constructed ones that don't cost an arm and a leg. Only thing holding me back is they look a bit clunky on website. I was something sleek in the style of Car Shoe or Tod's. I was thinking navy suede w/matching stitching and red brick camp sole.

I've got the Tod's loafers with the full rubber sole (not just the independent nubs) and highly recommend it. More quality than I expected from the pics on their website, and frankly I feel that Italian shoes are generally of inferior quality. (not poor quality, but just not among the best)

I'm also very into this venetian loafer / camp moc hybrid talk that is going on. I had been torn between both designs. The eyelets was exactly what I didn't like about the camp moc, and I like the thin rubber sole thats in the Rancourt x Taylor Stitch make up above. Something like that in various colors of suede (or leather) and matching laces might be an unavoidable purchase.

 

[RobSay24]

That sounds promising for me...the vamp on the Venetian looks longer than the camp mocs. Nice to know it's an available option. Can't wait to see how it comes out.

 

[Kashiwa]



Haha no problem.
I just emailed Kyle asking for venetian loafer with some laces and blind eyelets actually. The last sleekness wasn't a big factor for me, so I didn't look into it that much besides eyeballing the pictures.
I'm sure Taryn will get back to you with more details on some sleeker lasts/styling

Thanks! Again, very glad to hear they can do the camp moc on venetian last. I know Rancourt was also talking about producing more dress specific shoes at one time, so maybe the do have even sleeker lasts in the works.......

I've got the Tod's loafers with the full rubber sole (not just the independent nubs) and highly recommend it.  More quality than I expected from the pics on their website, and frankly I feel that Italian shoes are generally of inferior quality. (not poor quality, but just not among the best)

I'm also very into this venetian loafer / camp moc hybrid talk that is going on.  I had been torn between both designs.  The eyelets was exactly what I didn't like about the camp moc, and I like the thin rubber sole thats in the Rancourt x Taylor Stitch make up above.  Something like that in various colors of suede (or leather) and matching laces might be an unavoidable purchase.

Can you post pics of your Tod's loafer? I've searched around a bit online, but can only seem to find pics of models with the nub soles. They do seem like nice loafers.

Seems to be a lot of interest in camp moc / loafer hybrids. I'll definitely let you all know what I find out from Taryn.

 

[FrankCowperwood]



Ivy loafer unboxing, sorry for the delay, I've just been very busy.

Again, this is full grain unlined kelly green suede, honey crepe sole, 10D
Commentary after the photos

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Those of you who know the quality and craftsmanship of Rancourt won't be surprised when I say this is a well constructed shoe.  The suede is soft, comfortable, and otherwise surpassed my expectations.

Now, here's the downside.  They don't fit  .  .  .  by a significant margin.  This is not a criticism of anyone.  My only hope is that by posting the details I can assist others who are likewise uncertain about sizing.

I corresponded directly with Kyle to set up this MTO.  The dialogue on sizing began when I passed on my Brannock size.  Kyle stated that Rancourt sizing doesn't correspond well with the Brannock and that I should download the Rancourt fit guide.  I did this and relayed the measurements.  As a comparison, heel to toe I measure 11C (though heel to ball I am 11.5 B/C).  On the Rancourt fit guide (which only measures heel to toe), I measured just a hair over a 10 in length and just over a "C" in width.  In response, Kyle suggested a 10D. 

I was skeptical, but I trusted that Kyle knows his product and lasts. Really, I was left thinking that this must be a long, narrow last.  I wasn't worried about it.  However, after putting on the loafers, I immediately realized they were too short.  My toes are jammed right into the tip of the shoe.  When I lift my foot, the sole can't flex, and it compresses my foot.

Needless to say, I am disappointed.  However, after expending significant energy dialing in my sizing on AE and Alden, I have shoe sizing fatigue.  That is to say, I don't want to experiment with Rancourt sizing at this time.  I'll probably come back to again maybe next year.

I don't want to let these loafers go, but don't be surprised if you see them on eBay or at your local Goodwill store (after all someone has to provide the fodder for the thrift store bragging thread).

PhiPsi: Very sorry to hear that these didn't work out. The green suede is excellent. Glad to hear you are taking the mishap in stride. I can certainly understand sizing fatigue. Too bad this one wasn't even close so you could make it work.

Thanks for the kind words! I'm loving the project so far, and people have just begun to really branch out into some crazier designs; here's my personal pair.

again, let me know if anyone wants to chat about potential shoe designs and swatches; I've just digitized a good lot of them for a customer; they look better in person but this will give you a sense of what we have for options

That's a nice looking shoe. I may try to stop in this coming Sunday afternoon, time permitting. Will be interested to see the shop and the shoe bar.

Can anyone comment on the whether Rancourt is using different lasts for their loafers (beefroll, pinch, weltline) and camp mocs?

They do use different lasts. For example, the BB chukkas that some of us bought are on what they call their 555 last. Kyle describes this as slightly narrower and shorter than the 800 last, which is the standard for the ranger moc. I had my green shell ranger mocs made on the 555 last and am pleased so far.

Not sure how many lasts they use overall.

 

[Bakes11771]

Thanks! Again, very glad to hear they can do the camp moc on venetian last. I know Rancourt was also talking about producing more dress specific shoes at one time, so maybe the do have even sleeker lasts in the works.......
Can you post pics of your Tod's loafer? I've searched around a bit online, but can only seem to find pics of models with the nub soles. They do seem like nice loafers.
Seems to be a lot of interest in camp moc / loafer hybrids. I'll definitely let you all know what I find out from Taryn.

Camera battery died in the process but I will definitely honor that request.

In the meantime...

This:
http://www.tods.com/us/shopmen/shoes/loafers/loafer-with-front-tie

 

[Kashiwa]

Thanks Frank. I know that different lasts had been mentioned on here, but couldn't remember which models. Still wondering though about the lasts used for the loafers and camp mocs? Perhaps the camp moc uses the same last as the ranger? Maybe you can investigate further if you make it to PDG?

Bakes11771, thanks for the link. They look quite nice. I saw a Tod's loafer posted a while back on SF (sorry, I can' find the original post), and it looked to have a shorter plug (i.e. the vamp didn't extend all the way to the toe of the shoe. Have you seen anything like that? That is one of the features I like of the Carmina loafer posted above, and something I am hoping Rancourt can do as well.

Wondering if anyone has thoughts on the "English Rolled Moc" style of handsewing vs. the standard toe stitch on Rancourts. Epaulet has recently received some Carmina handsewn loafers with the English Rolled Moc and they are advertising them as the state of the art, especially for suede.

From the EP site:

"we used a "Rolled English Moc" for the toe. A thin strip of suede covers the "butt" seam that you typically see on the top of a penny loafer, giving it a clean and polished look."

http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/the-1674/Hawthorne-Handsewn-Moc-Snuff/Detail

Thoughts on this feature?

 

[RobSay24]



Camera battery died in the process but I will definitely honor that request.

In the meantime...

This:
http://www.tods.com/us/shopmen/shoes/loafers/loafer-with-front-tie

Those are beautiful. Any idea if the sole is replacable? If the Venetian/Camp Moc hbrid can come close to that I better start saving for all the colors I have in mind.

 

[mrpo0nani]

These from Leffot are marked at $460 (though they are on sale atm) but they are made by Rancourt who sells the same loafers for $260 but in a darker chromexcel:

The Leffot ones seem incredibly marked up. But, I have one question: Why? Especially by that margin.

 

[forsan]

Has anyone gotten the Hill-side chukka from Hickoree's? They're not really my style, but I'm just drawn to something about them! Not sure if I should make the move or not.

Love the material, but that blue is really strong - I'm having a hard time figuring out what I would wear them with besides some chinos. Thoughts?

 

[Kashiwa]

I asked that same question on here long ago, but I don't think anyone ever commented on it. At first I thought maybe these were natural shell, but they are indeed CXL.

I guess Leffot thought they could get $460 for them, and decided to mark them up considerably. The fact that they are 50% off suggests otherwise. Wonder how many they sold for $460, and also wonder about Leffot's pricing practices more generally....

Good deal at $230 though. Natural CXL makes for an awesome casual loafer IMO.

 

[Kashiwa]



Has anyone gotten the Hill-side chukka from Hickoree's? They're not really my style, but I'm just drawn to something about them! Not sure if I should make the move or not.
Love the material, but that blue is really strong - I'm having a hard time figuring out what I would wear them with besides some chinos. Thoughts?

Concur with every single word of your post. I think the Sashiko fabric makes for a very interesting, unique and eye-catching shoe. Being in Japan, I'm quite attracted to the Sashiko fabric for its traditional and martial associations. The crepe sole and similarly toned laces also looks nice paired with the navy suede.

But I'm also skeptical about the versatility of the navy. I wear denim a lot and can't see pairing these with blue denim. Maybe someone will chime in about the versatility of navy.

Edit: But faded denim would look great with the navy suede.

 

[tv2177]



Thanks for the kind words! I'm loving the project so far, and people have just begun to really branch out into some crazier designs; here's my personal pair.

again, let me know if anyone wants to chat about potential shoe designs and swatches; I've just digitized a good lot of them for a customer; they look better in person but this will give you a sense of what we have for options

wow wish I had known this before I ordered my loafer. I will definitely look you up for my next pair of rancourt's.

 

[tv2177]

Taylor and Stitch just launched their Rancourt line shoes.

http://taylorstitch.com/collections...-Summer_Rugby_Stripe_Oxfords&utm_medium=email

interesting thing is they are telling the customers to size down 1/2 size.

sizing remains a question mark for rancourt...

 

[FrankCowperwood]



Taylor and Stitch just launched their Rancourt line shoes.
http://taylorstitch.com/collections...-Summer_Rugby_Stripe_Oxfords&utm_medium=email
interesting thing is they are telling the customers to size down 1/2 size.
sizing remains a question mark for rancourt...

I noted that sizing advice too, tv2177. Funny, it's almost as if telling people to size down 1/2 is meant to indicate that these are real shoes.

Two thoughts: First, I honestly don't think Rancourts are sized for this kind of fitting advice. It should go without saying that this is a personal opinion, albeit one based on five pairs of the company's shoes. Second, I think that you are much more likely to end up with a pair of unwearable shoes by going down in size. You can, and I do, work with shoes that are slightly too big. Too small is too small.

Of course, the more these shoes are stocked, the more chances people will have to find their size without the risk of an MTO.

 

[tv2177]



I noted that sizing advice too, tv2177. Funny, it's almost as if telling people to size down 1/2 is meant to indicate that these are real shoes.
Two thoughts: First, I honestly don't think Rancourts are sized for this kind of fitting advice. It should go without saying that this is a personal opinion, albeit one based on five pairs of the company's shoes. Second, I think that you are much more likely to end up with a pair of unwearable shoes by going down in size. You can, and I do, work with shoes that are slightly too big. Too small is too small.
Of course, the more these shoes are stocked, the more chances people will have to find their size without the risk of an MTO.

I am with you on that the too small is too small. the fact that more retailers are stocking rancourt certainly gives us a lot of good chances to get first hand knowledge on the sizing before ordering the MTO. Another thing that we will never know w/o asking Kyle is that last that's being used on these other brands or other retailers compare to the MTO lasts. However I do have a feeling that they are on the same last, but I could be very wrong.